exposure compensation for 16mm

[radar71]

I've been reading in allot of posts that for 16mm it's good to overexpose. should i set the compensation in the light meter (sekonic 558c) or pull to 320 (shooting 500)?

 

i noticed that the K3 has a shutter angle of 150 is that a factor? i can set the angle in the meter so it should read ok i think.

[John Pytlak RIP]

I've been reading in allot of posts that for 16mm it's good to overexpose. should i set the compensation in the light meter (sekonic 558c) or pull to 320 (shooting 500)?

 

i noticed that the K3 has a shutter angle of 150 is that a factor? i can set the angle in the meter so it should read ok i think.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Yes, slight overexposure (up to a stop) for a color negative film will usually give more shadow detail, "richer" blacks, and finer grain. This is because scene information is placed higher on the film's sensitometric curve, more on the "straight line" portion. Increasing exposure slightly also helps by placing the scene information on the smaller grains of the emulsion.

 

Yes, for an EI500 film, setting the meter to a lower EI than the film in the camera will give more exposure. For an EI500 film, setting the meter to EI400 will overexpose the film by 1/3 stop. A meter setting of 320 will overexpose by 2/3 stop. And a meter setting of 250 will give a full stop more exposure.

 

If you are using a calculator, there is usually a factor for the shutter angle and frame rate. Normal shutter angle is usually 170 degrees and normal frame rate is 24fps.

 

A 150 degree shutter reduces the exposure by about 1/5 stop, compared to a 170 degree shutter.

 

Note, for color reversal films, overexposure will tend to compress the highlight information, and is not recommended.

[Dominic Case]

or pull to 320 (shooting 500)?

Avoid using the term "pull" in this way. It's usually used to indicate reducing the processing time in the lab (often hand-in-hand with down-rating the stock's speed). The under-development would tend to counteract the effect of richer blacks and more shadow contrast that you want (which John describes).

[radar71]

Avoid using the term "pull" in this way. It's usually used to indicate reducing the processing time in the lab (often hand-in-hand with down-rating the stock's speed). The under-development would tend to counteract the effect of richer blacks and more shadow contrast that you want (which John describes).

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Thanks guys for the informative responses. This really is an excellent forum.

 

so if i'm rating the film at 320 instead of 500, i just mark on the lab form, or can to develop for 320. not to "pull" to 320. correct? and conversely if i was to rate the film at a higher asa i would not use the term "push"?

[Phil Rhodes]

Hi,

 

No. If you're rating it at 320, just put 320 into your meter and shoot the stops it indicates. The lab doesn't need to know - everything goes through the same soup, irrespective of the actual speed of the film or the speed you rated it at. The film is formulated to produce a "normal" result when exposed as reccomended on the can. If you rate it at 320, you're overexposing by about two-thirds of a stop, which helps tighten grain and deepen blacks, but that doesn't affect the way it's processed.

 

Phil

[radar71]

Hi,

 

No. If you're rating it at 320, just put 320 into your meter and shoot the stops it indicates. The lab doesn't need to know - everything goes through the same soup, irrespective of the actual speed of the film or the speed you rated it at. The film is formulated to produce a "normal" result when exposed as reccomended on the can. If you rate it at 320, you're overexposing by about two-thirds of a stop, which helps tighten grain and deepen blacks, but that doesn't affect the way it's processed.

 

Phil

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Thanks, i follow. i have the sekonic 558c meter which allows me to setup a compensation. if i set it up for -.7 i think that will produce the same result, which is to open up the aperture almost a stop without having to think about it too much, correct?

 

the meter can also be set for the 150 shutter.

 

thanks for the help guys.