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Newbie from OZ


Mike Currell

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Hi all nice to be here! I want to have a go at 8mm. Seems I have a newly discovered passion for playing with all things film!! Going by the Baby Pathe projector that I just bought from Ebay and have just finished restoring (It moves!!).....yeah I'm hooked!! I digress....I have already done lots of research into the subject but am getting confused. I am a videographer with TV experience so I am starting on the second bottom rung of the ladder. Any answers to the following would be greatly appreciated.

 

I want to be able to convert 8 mm to Telecine without going to the expense of doing it frame by frame. My video cameras have a 24fps native setting so thats one good thing. I need a projector that will cover regular 8, super 8 and super 8 with sound. I am not going to worry about the double 8 or split 16mm format. So any brand suggestions, what to look for, availability of parts etc?

 

I see a lot of cheap telecine converters on Ebay but the simple hinged glass frame type seems good? I assume that most of these cheap conversion units are simply a 90 degree reflective lens type thing?

 

I want also to desperately buy a camera. Here is the source of my greatest confusion! I am swaying between Beaulieu, Bolex Nizo and cannon. I may buy more than one camera down the track however to begin with I would like a camera with an interval timer or intervalometer so I can do timelapse. Do any of the Beaulieu's do time lapse automatically? I see that some of the Nizo's do. I have done a lot of reading re cameras so I understand that with some cams I would have to re cell them, look at and possibly remove the internal filters....... I understand that some of these cameras may need servicing etc I have taken "caveat emptor" very much to heart!!

The Beaulieu 4008ZM2 seems popular but I cant work out wether It does time lapse automatically. Otherwise a Nizo 801? or a cannon 514 or 1014??

 

If I shoot I see that kodachrome 64t is widely available. Is this a super 8 format without the sound track? Is it still possible to buy regular 8 and have it processed?

 

Thanks in anticipation of your help

Mike

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Hmmmm seems you cant edit a post in here.....I realise that in my first post that I have sounded a bit blonde! I think I know what standard 8 is now! Forgive me for asking so many questions but I thought that this was the place to learn?? :unsure:

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Hi Mike,

 

I'm not sure about the Canon 514, but i have two 518's (a previous model i believe) and they are superb. Easy to disassemble and troubleshoot too - i recently repaired one that died during a shoot, and got another 'dead on arrival' from ebay running nicely. The 518 reads 64t notch fine, but i have heard the the 514 doesn't and will underexpose it so needs manual aperture adjustment.

 

I can't help with the telecine because i haven't yet had anything transferred. However standard 8 film - yes it is still available for purchase and there are places that will process it. Nanolab.com.au here in AU sells it, though i'm not certain whether they process it or not.

 

Hope my 2c helps in some way..

 

Cheers

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g'day Mike,

o.k. a few quick responses to some of your questions.

First off, sound super 8 stock isn't manufactured any more sadly (you are over a decade too late for that one). This will probably mean you don't need a sound projector. That is good, becuase if you only want to buy one projector, you are unlikely to get a dual format projector (super 8 and standard 8) that is also a sound projector. For a good silent dual gauge projector I'd recommend the Elmo K100 or K110. Also a Eumig 610 is great - or any Eumig that physically looks like the 610 model.

You want to buy a projector that takes the stardard 12v 100w halogen bulb with reflector (shaped like the bulb in a modern down light). If the projector doesn't use one of those, don't buy it (especially not if it looks like a spaceman bulb).

Yes, we process Standard 8.

As for cameras, Martin is quite right, don't buy a 514 if you intend to shoot the commonly available E64t (which is the main s8 stock). The 518 is an ideal cheap camera to buy (preferably the type that doesn't use separate light meter batteries).

Or get a Nizo or high end Canon if you want bells and whistles.

Honestly I don't recommend you buy a Beaulieu at all. Please don't (that is my opinion - there are plenty of users of Beaulieus that will tell you otherwise). Apart from the battery re-cell problem with them, they are prone to problems. Can be fixed, but if you use the Beaulieu repair guy here in Melbourne, expect to take out a loan to pay for the repair. Sure they are sexy to look at. I only rarely see good results from them however.

You can email me at richard@nanolab.com.au for any questions you might have.

cheers,

richard

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Welcome to shooting super8, I hope you find it to be a great format.

 

concerning cameras, there are so many available in Australia! Chinons are good, Yashica are very reliable, most Canons are good, reliable, but high end models can be too expensive! Sankyo does a great camera, reliable!

 

Whatever camera you get, keep it cheap until you know what you want to do. Make sure it can shoot 18fps and 24fps. Make sure it runs! If buying off ebay, ask them to put some AA batteries in it, otherwise they will say they "are selling it for another person, therefore don't know if it works" Putting batteries in the camera is not testing it.

 

100D film is fantastic for colours and low on grain.

E64 is a grainier film, but more lifelike colours.

Plus-x and Tri-x are great films too.

 

I made up a website awhile ago just for Super8 users in Australia, you might find some of the links handy.

 

www.mishkin.yolasite.com

 

goodluck

Gareth

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Hey guys thanks so much for that info. it really has helped. Shame about not being able to buy a projector that does standard. super and super sound. I realise that I will not be shooting with sound but having the one projector that does all three would be good.

 

I guess I'm getting involved in 8mm for a couple of reasons - Firstly, I love to dabble in vintage stuff and collect many things so thats why I like the look of Beaulieu....but point taken. I dont want something that is unreliable or expensive to fix.

 

Secondly, I have a fledgling media business that is currently deriving cash flow from shooting weddings here in the wedding capitol of Australia....the Whitsundays. We have two beautiful JVC High Def cameras that deliver amazing pictures and our edit suite was spared no expense....can't wait to play with some telecine!! We want to branch out and eventually offer our services to a more diverse client base so I believe that a move into 8mm may in time be another feather in the cap. So whatever I choose to fiddle with in 8mm has to be practical and work straight out of the box.

 

I still want time lapse with an inbuilt interval timer on the camera. So I guess my question today is are there any of the early wind up standard 8 cameras with an intervalometer? Or should I continue to be looking at super 8 and the likes of NIZO and Cannon?

 

Richard thanks for your response. I have been cruising your site. I will be in contact soon for my first order of stock. Would you mind fielding a phone call from me at some stage before I jump in the deep end?

 

And thankyou Gareth, I am off to your site now.

"Research makes the colour balance glow fonder"

Mike

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Yikes! did I mention I was a poor wedding videographer! The telecine I want to do will just be for fun and in real time. If any requests from clients ever eventuate I would direct them to someone like Nano Lab.

Im thinking of sometning like this. It's simplicity is what attracts me.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

 

Would love to hear from anyone who has had a play with the cheap end telecine stuff!

 

But first I must "Slaughter my ox" as my dear father would say.......Anyone in Oz with an 8mm cam for sale?

 

Mike

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Hi

Just to wrap up, I ended up paying peanuts for a (hopefully) workable Bolex B8L from ebay. The postage was more than the purchase price and it comes in a charming leather case with five tiffen filters and a nice "som" zoom reflex lens. I know that this will be the first of many cams that I buy and want to eventually shoot with 16mm. So even if this thing is broken it will take pride of place in the display cabinet. If it shows signs of life it may teach me a few things about film. Super 8 and bells and whistles later!

 

I'm wondering just how far I go in regards to trying to service this cam myself. I am reasonably technical with some good tools for small jobs (into radio control) Can I use light oil and grease where necessary? Is there a repair manual out there?

Any help is appreciated

Mike

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Hi Mike,

Bolex cameras are relatively simple to dismantle, clean and put back together. As most of these little boxes are clockwork, all you need to do is remove the film gate plate first then it is a number of small screws. The most difficult part replacing the film transport pin assembly spring and the cover particularly the spring that keeps the tension on the feeder reel. (these are far from accurate terms I am using) By now you are probably saying what the?? If you are serious in cleaning and re lubing your bolex, send me a private message and I can walk you through it. I have managed to rejuvenate three bolexs. Their yvar/swittar lenses are very crisp, especially with 100d film. when lubed and running smoothly, they purrrrr.

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Thanks nick

I might eventually take you up on that. I have ordered a repair manual on cd. I am not expecting to have the cam for a couple of weeks. I'll pm you with questions.

It sounds like it could turn into a cartoon with springs and whatnot flying thru the air!

We will see

 

Mike

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You can email me at richard@nanolab.com.au for any questions you might have.

cheers,

richard

 

 

Must give two big THUMBS up here to Nanolab. I've used them lots on various projects for super 8 work.

 

In fact...right now I'm waiting for some super 8 to come back. We shot it as part of a faux music clip in a comedy series Im doing with ABC.

 

It's so great to have labs like Nanolab keeping these options open to cinematographers. (and they are great to deal with too)

 

jb

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