stinger gauge

ChrisHood · November 2, 2010

I want to build some stingers and I want to know what gauge cable to use.

I have the Hubble ends and plan to use CAROL wire. I just need the gauge

and or part number. Length will be 50' and 25' and primarily for lights from

300W to 1000W.

John Sprung · November 2, 2010

Theoretically, you could go as light as AWG 16. But why bother? Get AWG 12, and you're covered for whatever might have an ordinary household plug on it, and you'll get less voltage drop with your small units. 12/3, of course, hot, neutral, and ground. For light duty cables, unless you really like doing the little wire stripper and screwdriver job, just buy them at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.

-- J.S.

Michael E Brown · November 3, 2010

For use as rentals, we do the following:

25-50: 12/3 S*

100: 10/3 S*

S (Extra Hard Usage Service Grade) grade is actually specified by the NEC for temporary cordage that's not protected. It's got a much thicker jacket that resists nicks, etc better along with general heavy traffic. Most of the time you will find SO (Oil resistant jacket), SOO (Outer and inner insulation oil resistant), SOOW (same plus outdoor rated - sunlight resistant and rated for wet environments). It's big and heavy, but worth it IMO.

SJ (Hard Usage Service Grade/Service Junior) has thinner insulation and jackets, and is OK - but it certainly can get nicked right to the copper much easier.

12/3 is good. For long runs, 10/3 is better - less voltage drop. Matters the most with tungsten fixtures, esp large tungsten fixtures. 14/3 SJ should be your minimum should you cheap out.

Hubbell is the best. By far. Looks like you've already figured that out. Don't buy them at the local electrical house, what a rip off. I buy a set of both ends in theatrical colors (solid black) for less than $10.

Something else to keep in mind with making your own cables is that you need to service them. Screw connections can loosen up over time causing increased resistance at the joint which can melt ends. Most of the time when you see a burned up end, it was a high current draw with a loose connection. Store bought cables have a leg up since most are permanently attached - crimped/soldered.