Alignment of anamorphic lens

[Liam Miller]

Hey guys

 

Just got my [running] 1014-E in and attached my anamorphic ISCO lens to the front (quite the beast) with a Vid-Atlantic clamp. Vignetting stops at about 25mm, which I'm pleased about. I have the camera lens and the anamorphic attached to each other via a 58mm rota pola which I popped the glass out of so I can quickly realign the lenses with each other after focusing. I'm going to attempt to build some kind of lens support with mini 15 rods, but I see that the camera lens breathes when focusing, which will inhibit me from securing the anamorphic lens in place, but I can't complain - it is what it is!

 

I've taken 1/2" white vinyl tape and marked along the top and bottom of the anamorphic lens to the best of my ability to indicate the positioning of the anamorphic element. I'm wondering what is the best method of ensuring accurate alignment after focusing on the fly? I'm going to be disappointed if my footage comes back distorted due to a minute alignment error on my part. I will be filming a wedding while vacationing in Europe this summer.

 

Needless to say, I'm excited about shooting anamorphic, despite the costs of using film in a digital age.

 

Aside from this, I also have the task of removing 30+ years of accumulated cigarette smoke. A thorough cleaning has taken a lot of it out, but it's still lingering. I've been told to leave it outside to air out, but I don't exactly like this idea seeing that it is a camera.

[Mark Dunn]

If you mount the 'scope lens directly, you will need a scale on it so you know how far to rotate it at each setting on the camera's distance scale.

The clamp you have is not really suitable for a camera with a rotating front element because you have to reset all three screws every time you focus. It can also let the lens sag. The one I have for my 8Z has threads each end, rotates internally and has a locking device, so I can just focus, unlock, align the scale and lock.

Edited April 16, 2013 by Mark Dunn

[Joerg Polzfusz]

When it's a 1.5x Iscorama, you'll only have to focus with the Isco while the camera remains at "infinity". But this only applies to the 1.5x Iscoramas. On all other Iscos you'll have to focus with both the camera and the Isco (as described by Mark).

BTW: There are several filters that can be rotated, e.g. https://de.hama.com/00081152/hama-graduated-filter-dark-grey-520-mm. You can get them for nearly nothing on fleabay (in most cases you'll be the only bidder - hence you can get them for 1 EUR + 6 EUR shipping on eBay Germany). If you remove the glass, then you can put it between camera and anamorphot. However this will most likely turn your "Vignetting stops at about 25mm" into a "Vignetting stops at about 30mm".