Joerg Polzfusz

That is the reason for a very long readme.md from Jenny as part of the project. Yes, the downside is that you have to read and think before doing something. This might indeed become too complex for most users.

Then better take a look at the project - there’s a clear notice that it will not work with most home printers (especially the cheap ones) and that it’s recommended to use a professional printing service instead.

We’ll see. I know someone who is going to test them soon.

The video is from April 7th, 2023, the files on GitHub are V1.1 as released in January 2024. The cartridges on GitHub also differ from the ones shown in the video… …the only obvious flaw is the lack of the two „noses“ (the protruding things close to the film gate where the position of the upper „nose“ is used to inform certain cameras about the film‘s sensitivity, e.g. Fujica AX100). So the GitHub files will only work for cameras that use the „arc“ for the sensitivity.

You have to read the instructions: “I suggest very strongly that you spray the outside of both cartridge bottom and lid with a good quality matt black paint.“

BTW: Isn’t at least the manufacturer of the filmstock listed in the credits?

IMDB only lists the used cameras, but also no details about the used filmstocks: https://m.imdb.com/title/tt0065867/technical/?ref_=tt_spec_sm What about 3M/GAF/DuPont? Did they still produced films in 1970?

Okay, then please ignore my idea from the previous post. 😉 However one question remains: Is a scanner able to properly work with the non-flat surface of the film at all? Or will this cause stray-lights/flares/…?

Hi! Can’t you simply add an overlay of colored stripes and then squeeze the result so that the three neighboring stripes overlap? Or is some information missing as the film‘s surface isn’t flat?

Hi! Try „Hydra“. It allows you to turn off the AWB and to manually select something between 2000K and 9000K. It definitely has got many, many restrictions in the free version. But at least you can play around with the app to see whether it suits your needs or not.

Could this be some coating issue (lens, filter or semitransparent mirror/beam splitter)? As it’s close to the perforation, it might be partially outside the „projectable area“ - and the viewfinder might show an even smaller area or might display some additional information in this area (f-stops, film transport indicator, …) that distracts from the problem.

To make things even more confusing: There are now connectors with four rings and hence five metal sections: 1 = ground 2+3 = stereo microphone (or two mono microphones) 4+5 = stereo headphones 🥴 They are at least used on some Sony devices: Xperia Z3, Xperia Z2 and Xperia Tablet. I wonder how this plug will look like for quadrophonic headphones and four mono microphones. 🤪

Hi! It looks like my English is lacking some proper words, but I try to explain it as good as possible: The plug can’t get too far into the socket. There’s a standardized length combined with the plastic and a thicker metal part at the plug’s end (towards the cable, where the plastic starts) that will prevent this. As you can see, the plug’s tip gets smaller right before the first ring. In the socket there’s a counterpart with a spring. That’s why the plug slips in easily the first mm. And then, at end, you’ll have to apply a little(!) pressure to ensure that the plug passes the „spring thing“ and goes all the way in. This „spring thing“ also ensures that you can only unplug the microphone with a little(!) pressure. Without this „spring thing“, the plug would fall out of the socket on its own. When you can still see metal parts of the plug, then the plug isn’t far enough in the socket. The only exception might be the thicker metal part at plug’s end (towards the cable). It’s usually also covered by plastic to prevent the users accidentally touching metal that still might be connected to some electrical power. But sometimes, it’s visible for a fraction of mm. Hope this helps Jörg P.S.: At least, the microphone is now working on one of your devices. 😃 Congrats!

Another hint from one of those YouTube videos (that I didn’t know before): To test the lav mic, attach the windshield and -while recording- rub the foam, as far away from the recording device (camera, smartphone, …) as possible. When the lav mic is used, you’ll hear some strange, loud noises in the recording. But when the internal mic was used instead, then the rubbing should be too faint to be recorded (=no sound recorded).

The other videos are basically showing the same fixes, except for these hints: When using a case for your phone/tablet, then try without the case (as the case might prevent the microphone‘s plug to go deep enough into the socket). At least when using the „sound recorder“ app, then sometimes an external microphone is only recognized when starting the app before attaching the microphone. Do your tests without any other electronic devices or cables nearby. On the panda, they might cause distortions and other strange effects. Not sure if any of these hints will solve your problems. Good luck!