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New to Super 8 - Have a few questions


Matt Steck

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First off. Hello! This is my first post in any sort of cinematography forum. A few years ago I was given a Canon 312XL-S Super 8 sound camera. I recently found it packed in a box at my parent's house. I would love to run a few cartridges through it and see what I get. It appears to be in working shape and is very clean. The take-up spindle turns and the sprocket paw/shutter operates smoothly. Under-exposure warning works as well. I know that sound film is NLA and this camera isn't the bees knees for 8mm, but I'm ok with that. I have a decent amount of experience shooting, developing and printing 35mm B&W and I have a small darkroom setup.

 

Anyway.. my main question..

 

I want to shoot reversal film so I can project it. I currently have no plans to scan to digital. I bought a few Tri-X packs from Kodak, which I beleive is rated for ASA 200 in daylight, 160 Tungsten. The Canon manual, located here: (http://camera.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/canon/312_xls.html) says the following:

 

Film Speed:

Artificial Light: ASA 40 160 250

Daylight: ASA 25 100 160

 

Will I be okay shooting this Tri-X outdoors? Should I use the pop-up 2-stop exposure compensator or a ND filter (pg. 23 in manual)? I understand that the ASA selection is done via a notch in the film pack, so I'm not really sure what to expect. I'm used to simply setting it on a still camera and leaving it. Any thoughts?

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I've seen some pretty good results in daylight using an ND4 filter and pulling up the compensator tab. The part that still confuses me is the filter notches. I've read that the current Tri-X cartridges have no filter notch. Is this correct? Should I remove the ND4 and turn of the compensator when shooting indoors? I'm used to fully manual cameras. This model is much more automatic than I'm used to.

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The camera has a 220º shutter, at 18fps equals about 1/30 of a second exposure time. You are correct that the Tri-X carts do not have a filter notch so, I am assuming that your camera interprets this as a tungsten cart and meters it at 250, which is a third stop under. In bright outdoor light, this is a good thing, but don't quote me. I am not totally sure. Either way, meter with a hand held spot meter at 1/30 protecting your hightlights and you will be fine. You will be using lots of filters outdoors anyway to get to a good f stop.

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Thanks for the info. This camera has no manual exposure controls. It only has the indoor/outdoor filter switch and a compensator tab that looks like it reduces the light entering the meter. It has two filter sensors and a tungsten/daylight sensor in the film compartment. I guess a hand held light meter wouldn't do much for me. I did however print out the cartridge notch ruler to try and get a better understanding of what's going on. Looks like a test roll will be my best bet.

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So, if I understand this correctly... Tri-X is rated at ASA 200 daylight speed, but Kodak recommends running it at ASA 160. It is notchless, so the internal 85 filter will be removed. Fine for B&W. Tri-X is speed notched at ASA 250, but since it has no filter notch, the camera will see it as daylight and compensate the meter 1/3 of a stop to ASA 160. So this would be correct.

 

Does that mean, that if I were to create a filter notch in the Tri-X, the camera would see it as Tungsten film and use ASA 250 speed, while applying the 85 filter (supposing the exterior filter switch was set to daylight)?

 

Sorry for the questions. I'm just trying to wrap my head around this one.

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Can you set exposure manually with the 310xl? In my cameras I just let the camera read it as 160 and manually close the aperture 1/3rd stop in daylight. Reversal film, especially b&w, look richer when rated at box speed or even 1/3rd under exposed.

 

Nope. Unfortunately it is auto exposure only.

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