SKI'N'FILM Posted April 20, 2004 Share Posted April 20, 2004 I just got into film and just bought a Very cheap canon 518 auto zoom on ebay. Everything works on it , so I bought film and am waiting for it to arrive. In the meantime I planned a trip to go skiing and just wanted to know what to set the exposure at. When I go outside with the camera and have the exposure on AUTO it always gets overexposed, but when I switch it to MANUAL, I can get the meter to stay towards the middle. Does this mean that the film will be exposed correctly when shot in bright conditions like skiing. I orded Kodachrome 40, which is like an all purpose film I guess. Any advice would be great. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member John Pytlak RIP Posted April 20, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted April 20, 2004 Here's a handy Super-8 guide I found on the Internet: http://www.kolumbus.fi/puistot/S8Manual.htm Here's the Kodak Super-8 Tips and links page: http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/super8/t....4.4.10.8&lc=en And Kodak Super-8 film products: http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/super8/f....4.10.4.4&lc=en The effective exposure index (speed) of KODACHROME 40 Super-8 movie film outdoors with the recommended orange "85" filter is EI 25. Normally, an autoexposure camera is "fooled" by the generally brighter light levels of a snow scene, and will UNDEREXPOSE the scene, making the snow too dark in the processed film. An easy way to compensate for this is to set the meter speed setting to a somewhat higher exposure index than the actual film. For example, setting the camera meter setting to EI50 will cause the autoexposure of the camera to increase the exposure of an EI25 film by one stop. Unfortunately, some cameras automatically set the speed based on the film cartridge notches, and don't allow manual override of the speed setting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate Downes Posted April 20, 2004 Share Posted April 20, 2004 Thankfully the canon does allow manual settings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member David Mullen ASC Posted April 20, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted April 20, 2004 Shoot tests and take notes to learn the idiosycrasies of your camera's metering system. As for exposing snow, again, tests would be a good idea, otherwise try and meter off of something more neutral in brightness than white snow. If not, try a grey card. Or calibrate your camera to a separate light meter by testing and then use the light meter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Salzmann Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 Put a high quality UV on and as David said test. If there is no time to test I suggest incident readings. You might find the images quite blue and therefore require 81 series filtration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate Downes Posted April 22, 2004 Share Posted April 22, 2004 The recommended filter is actually an 85A for outdoor shooting with Kodachrome. 85B for Ektachrome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted April 23, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted April 23, 2004 Hi, I've been shooting some super-8 over the last week or so, and I had one of my two carts of Vision 200T jam. Asking around I heard that there is a known problem on some cameras; can anyone confirm or deny this? Regards, Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Neary Posted April 23, 2004 Share Posted April 23, 2004 Hi Phil- We just shot 15 rolls of the 200t for a short music vid with three different cameras with no problems- But I wonder with super8 cameras as old as they all are, if they might be more of a potential source of running problems than the carts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Wells Posted April 23, 2004 Share Posted April 23, 2004 I have had cartridges jam on a couple of occasions, and there have been reports of jittery cartridges, although I do think that sometimes it is the camera not the cartridge. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member John Pytlak RIP Posted April 23, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted April 23, 2004 If you ever suspect a cartridge problem, return the defective cartridge and any others in that batch to your Kodak dealer, and they will return them to Kodak for a full investigation. Infrequently used cameras or weak batteries may not drive the film and cartridge take-up properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted April 23, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted April 23, 2004 Hi, I guess it could be the camera, but I've shot two rolls of Kodachrome 40 and one of Ektachrome 125 and not had a problem. I have anothe 200T cart I'm now halfway through. If I send the cart back to Kodak, does that mean I'm going to lose everything I shot on it so far? That's the Grand Canyon trip, nngh! Phil "Home Movie" Rhodes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted April 23, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted April 23, 2004 Hi, Oh, and I don't think it's a weak motor issue. They were brand new batteries (they'd driven half a cart) and it actually tore a perf, so I think it's got enough grunt. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate Downes Posted April 24, 2004 Share Posted April 24, 2004 I had a cart fail on me once, still have the cart. I'll mail it back to kodak for a diagnosis. About 10 seconds into the shoot, I heard a snap and then the film was no longer turning in the cart. The little spindle-wheel spins freely now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member John Pytlak RIP Posted April 26, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted April 26, 2004 Return the film to the dealer, who will return it to Kodak for evaluation. Phil: If you've exposed most of the roll, get it processed. But return any unexposed cartridges from the same batch for evaluation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted April 26, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted April 26, 2004 Hi, Durn, well, I shot the rest of the other roll of 200T before I got that advice. It didn't sound happy and I'm sure the camera was running way too slowly; it would barely make it to 24fps let alone the high speed 48 option which sounded really sick. Same camera has shot two carts each of Kodachrome 40 and Ektachrome 125, including periods at 48fps, without issues. I should point out that it did just about manage to haul the second cart through to the point where "EXPOSED" became visible, but it definitely wasn't right. I think it might be that the clutch in the reel drive is too slack, but why would there be a difference between thr 40 and the 200? Does anyone know who I should take this thing to in the UK to get it serviced, and for that matter what I should do about processing the Ektachrome? It says "Process VNF-1 or RVNP" on the box; can this go through the same heinous, bubbling, toxic goop as the Kodachrome? Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Wells Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 What type of Camera are you using? There are people in the UK, but it depends on the make of camera. If it is Beaulieu (although I can not think of a Beaulieu with a 48fps setting) you need to send it to Bjorn Andersson in Sweden: bjorn.andersson@brevet.nu If you are still worried about the cartridges try calling Dan Clark at Kodak motion picture in Hemel Hempstead: 01442 845945 Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member John Pytlak RIP Posted April 26, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted April 26, 2004 I should do about processing the Ektachrome? It says "Process VNF-1 or RVNP" on the box; can this go through the same heinous, bubbling, toxic goop as the Kodachrome? NO!!! You definitely want to use process VNF-1 or RVNP. E-6 will give you a color image, but it will be off-color. But the KODACHROME process will not work at all, as KODACHROME films have no colored couplers, and the process forms the dyes from couplers that are in the process, along with selected color re-exposure and fogging steps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted April 26, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted April 26, 2004 Hi, Okay, I had no idea what kind of process the K40 was supposed to go through - I guess I'll just throw it at pro8mm (anybody better?) and let them sort it out... Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeSelinsky Posted April 27, 2004 Share Posted April 27, 2004 Pro 8mm is pretty expensive, but I think they're the only full service Super 8 facility out there. Prepare to pay a lot for transfer time, it's like $350/hr. I can swear there must be other places there, here are some sites that might help: http://www.super8filmmaking.com http://8mm.filmshooting.com Plus Kodak's site with labs listed on it. If you want to process your Super 8 Kodachrome, send it to Kodak in Switzerland. If you purchase the PK-59 mailer for $6.00 that will do the job. You can project it directly too. Much cheaper than getting the color negative processed and transferred. - G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Barham Posted April 28, 2004 Share Posted April 28, 2004 Shoot tests and take notes to learn the idiosycrasies of your camera's metering system. As for exposing snow, again, tests would be a good idea, otherwise try and meter off of something more neutral in brightness than white snow. If not, try a grey card. Or calibrate your camera to a separate light meter by testing and then use the light meter. I'm having flashbacks of a USC S-8 class where I was stuck with a cam w/ a broken internal light meter, and cinemeter that didn't do 18fps. The good news is that I learned a lot shooting test and getting a decent organic feel for exposure. Just prepare as much as you can, and you'll be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted April 28, 2004 Premium Member Share Posted April 28, 2004 Hi, Well I'll certainly send the Kodachrome to Switzerland; in the UK, the processing for this stock is included. The Ektachrome and Vision 200 neg will probably have to go to Pro8mm; I tried a couple of places in London yesterday and they didn't even bother getting back to me, which is pretty much par for the course but still annoying. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Pacini Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 If you don't have an external meter, and you're quick shooting, and can't use a grey card, then here's my advice for exposer: Get close, or zoom all the way in, to the person's face you're shooting, take an auto-reading, then lock the exposure down to that setting. If the faces are exposed right, that's probably going to be a good mid-level exposure. This is far from exact and scientific, but if you're "running & gunning" out on the slopes and filming people, I think it's the best bet. Matt Pacini Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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