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WTB: Color Meter Sekonic / Kenko / Minolta


Montell Taraschewski
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Good Afternoon everyone!

Im currently looking for a used but loved Color Meter. Preferably a Sekonic, Kenko or Minolta. May be a long shot as theyre hard to come by used but maybe ill get lucky.
Ideally located within Europe as im currently in Germany. Any leads are also greatly appreciated! 

All the best, Montell

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Could I ask why you want an older meter?

I can only envisage you wanting to just use them on traditional hmi/tungsten fixtures.

To be put frankly, these older meters are next to useless on modern LED fixtures- particularly fixtures using multi-colour arrays like skypanels, etc. 

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8 hours ago, Matthew Parnell said:

Could I ask why you want an older meter?

I can only envisage you wanting to just use them on traditional hmi/tungsten fixtures.

To be put frankly, these older meters are next to useless on modern LED fixtures- particularly fixtures using multi-colour arrays like skypanels, etc. 

 

Could you please elaborate why "old" (what is old for you?) meters are useless on modern fixtures ? Have used a borrowed Kenko KCM-3100 on a few past projects in order to evaluate the color shifts on different sources in order to match them. Which worked great for me thus far. Although im well aware that every meter gives a slightly different reading, especially compared to current digital ones but as long as I get some sort of baseline im fine with it. 

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Older style meters use 3 sensors with Red, Green and Blue filters, then derive a reading from the balance of those. The newer style spectrometers like the C700 and C800 use a CMOS to measure the spectral distribution of the light, and then can derive not just colour temperature, but a whole league of other readings. 

 

The older style meters are awesome with lights with a continuous or near-continuous spectrum- tungsten, hmi, most fluros etc. But the combination of how the older style meters actually measure light, along with the discontinuous spectrum of LED fixtures means accuracy and consistency goes out the window.

 

A Titan tube, a Skypanel, a Kino Freestyle, and a Vortex all have incredibly different approaches to colour science in order to produce white light, resulting in vastly different spectral distribution curves to achieve the same colour temperatures- which inevitably means inaccurate readings on a CM3 or 3100. 

 

Additionally Commercial and residential grade LEDs also have a tendency to have large gaps in their spectrum, which can see you have what appears to be great readings on your 3100, but in reality is deficient in output at certain wavelengths, so you will struggle to get nice skin tones, or accurate colours. 

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