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Jeremy Rumas

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About Jeremy Rumas

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  • Occupation
    Other
  • Location
    USA

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  • Website URL
    http://www.hangsuponnothing.com
  1. Hey Simon, no worries! I appreciate the responses. So I went ahead and modified my synchronizer. Just carefully used some hand files, and it actually worked out really well. Gregg, that's interesting you have one that was factory made for S16, sounds like a rare find.
  2. Thanks for the replies. I'm only using a synchronizer that was made by Moviola, like the one in the link. My edit of the movie is complete, and negative has been in the can except for transfers and some workprints. Cotton gloves, check, got em. Yeah Mark, the ridges on the rollers are symmetrical. I think I'm going to have to modify them so they don't scratch up the S16 image area.
  3. Hi all, I'm about to edit down the negative of my movie in order to make a S16mm print(for an indie tour where music would be played live). I have already edited the entire movie digitally, with timecode. I am planning on using a 4 gang Moviola Synchronizer to keep track of frames when conforming the negative. One like this: http://az413224.vo.msecnd.net/img/42333/m_42333_1.jpg While setting my work area up, I'm looking at the Moviola, which I have not used yet, and I see that it looks like the inner lip of the rollers/sprockets on these will contact the film within the S16mm frame. I'm worried about scratching my negative within the S16mm frame. Anyone have experience doing this? Do I need to mill down the inner lip of the rollers(along where the 16mm soundtrack would go) in order not to scratch my S16mm negative? thanks, Jeremy
  4. Will, Thanks for the company info there. I am going to look into all my options and make a decision soon. Much appreciated! -Jeremy
  5. Will, I had given a bit of thought to this possibility, though I didn't think about doing an anamorphic squeeze on the print. This could be an option. Thanks for the suggestions and the contact info!
  6. hi Dirk, thanks for responding. I sent you a PM.
  7. I'm aware S16mm prints can't have sound. Non-sync sound can provided by a live band, a live narrator, samples mixed in live, etc. 16mm/S16mm prints are relatively cheap, they look beautiful projected, projectors are cheap and plentiful, and easy to transport. This is my project this would be for: http://www.hangsuponnothing.com/
  8. hello all, Was wondering if anyone has any knowledge on this. I shot a movie on negative stock that is a combination of Regular 16mm and Super 16mm. I would like to get a Super 16mm print of the entire movie, that I can project with a projector converted to S16mm. The Regular 16mm footage would need to be optically blown up/cropped on top and bottom to fill the Super 16mm frame. Are there any labs out there that will do this? The one in my area that I talked to said they couldn't do it. thanks, -Jeremy
  9. hi Giray, I use a C-mount to FD adapter. I had to modify mine to be able to engage the lever on the rear of the lens which enables the aperture ring to work properly. It was quite easy really. I have an adapter that looks just like this: My link You'll notice the adapter is made of two pieces held together by a few set screws. I took apart the two pieces, and inserted a small metal tab between them on the inside of the adapter, then put the adapter back together. I cut a small piece of thin sheet metal for this. I positioned the metal tab so that when the FD lens is mounted and turned into place, the metal tab engages the lever on the rear of the lens. It took just a bit of experimenting to get it in the right position, but it works perfectly.
  10. hello all, I would like to film time-lapse of some epic storms this spring with my Bolex. I have one major concern: standing out in the open with a Bolex on a tripod seems like a pretty good way to attract lightning. And I'm looking to avoid that scenario. Does anyone here have experience with this, and tips for doing this as safely as possible? I'd really appreciate hearing from your own experiences. thanks, Jeremy
  11. OK, I have a question specifically for the Bolex crew here....does anyone have any thoughts on using RX Switar lenses on this camera? I'm guessing there'd be the soft focus issue if the lenses are not stopped down, for lenses 50mm and under at least. Could an adapter or special mount be made to offset this? This camera gets me excited in that there is a possibility I could also shoot digital with all my current lenses I have for my Bolex.
  12. Thanks for the link Chris. I usually only stop by the 16mm and Bolex neighborhoods, so I hadn't seen that!
  13. Digital Bolex on Kickstarter This looks pretty interesting. I'm curious to see what happens with this...
  14. Wow! Thanks for sharing. I had not heard of this yet. This sounds fascinating. -Jeremy
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