Danny Lachman

Wow great film footage - keep pushing that. The first film shot, the close up of the girl's face - when she opens her eyes they are barely exposed, I want to see her eyes and I question why I can't.

That was great. It looks really professional, my critique would be that some of the shots had such a strong visual and other shots seemed have some arbitrary choices in them. Like the opening shot of the forest is beautiful and then you juxtapose it next to the bland interior - but there is a door frame out of focus in half the shot and for me it doesn't see like it's needed if not distracting. Also, maybe it's just me but the static camera doesn't really seem to add to it either - dollies are hard to get a hold of but I think some subtle movement would really tighten up the aesthetic of these images. Again great camera work - especially the girl blowing the bubbles, that's a great shot.

I'm going to find somewhere else to post these, but here is one for now that sort of is the most generic type of shot I want to do.

Not that you'd want this but I've found my 1998 328i sedan to be able to hold a ton of grip gear - though it has to put in properly. I can fit - 12x12 frame, 2 hi hi rollers, 2 combo stands, 2 c stands, lighting box with 5 fresnels, old mole 2k(big), stinger milk crate, tools milk crate, 36x48 flags, 12x24 flags, plenty of fabric(silks, sound blankets, solids, Grifflon) I guess the point is that I'm sort of showing off, and that almost any car can work. I'd agree about the toyota tacoma - great truck. A van would be best.

I'm going to post some "storyboards"

I'm doing a photoshoot next week in a highschool gym. I'm trying to make it look like a dark homecoming dance, I'll be shooting on large format. I've got a 2k, 650, 300, and two 1000 watt open face soft lights. I've also got silks and overheads and other stuff so keep that in mind. I'm going to be doing 1 - 2sec exposures with a bit of controlled motion blur for some of the background 50s high school dancing teens, while having the main subject hold still. I was told that par can lighting would work well if I shot it on certain parts of the dance floor. I'm considering a kind of "eraserhead" look with strong overhead lighting and deep shadwos on the eye sockets - except for the main subjects where I was thinking of shooting the 2k through a 1/2 grid cloth or 1/4 silk (either 12x12 or 6x6) My biggest concern is making it look dark yet properly lit - I'm afraid of loosing details on parts of the models if I don't light them but I'm afraid to ruin the night look by over lighting them. I'm only shooting about 6-10 models with 2 max at the front of the frame that are important. I won't be shooting the whole gym either - only a portion I'm decorating with streamers, balloons, and hanging stars. Hollistically, it's supposed to look sort of dreary and depressing. 50s teens are having this formal and social culture of finding a "mate" imposed on them in an ugly high school gym, so it's supposed to be kind of awkward and sad feeling. any suggestions would be great - I'll have all day to shoot. http://www.cinecultist.com/archives/2007_0..._eraserhead.jpg http://www.connors.cc.ok.us/gallery/qdig-f...m(2)%201960.jpg I was originally going to do a frontal flash, but it looked to "crappy" with the blown out faces, so I'm looking for something else.

Are you thinking - this kind of light? http://www.offthewagoncollective.com/image...nch/profile.jpg if so I'm really interested in some tips on achieving this look, my guess would be a fresnel with heavy frost or something up top on flood. tips? classy shot eh?

Hi, I just convinced my friend to purchase some "cool lights" specifically these: http://www.coollights.biz/clmf0150-cool-li...esnel-p-63.html http://www.coollights.biz/clmf0070-cool-li...snel-p-120.html http://www.coollights.biz/clsft1-softbox-5...tand-p-105.html I couldn't find any reviews except from the site - and who trusts reviews from the actual website? The price, low wattage + heat, and near day light temp were the reasons for the purchase. I heard these might have a green spike, but I can't imagine that being a big correction problem with a gel. He shoots digital, I shoot film so we plan on using both. I'm under the impression that these aren't that bright, but if the 150w is equivalent to a 650w tungsten that's plenty for us.

http://modernstudio.com/

I was in a similar position with my 12x12. I had been using baby triple risers with the 4 1/2 heads attached to them (it was ghetto) but it worked and saved me about 200 bucks. But the more you do it the more you'll see you should have gotten the combo stands. You'll start to notice the metal bending when you go up high, the smaller stands won't last. I just purchased two hi hi rollers for $280 a stand from modern studio - they are probably one of the cheapest providers of equipment out there. It's a worth the investment and you'll probably end up needing the bigger stands eventually like I did. Plus you can always use them for other purposes and they won't fuss at all.

also, just fyi - the "silk" china balls don't work very well in terms of diffusing the light. It's like trying to diffuse an hmi by shooting through fabric instead of a diffuser gel. just don't want anybody to waste their money.

http://www.lanternlock.com/ they make high wattage sockets for use in china balls.

Thanks, from watching the videos on youtube and other sites with steadicams and similar products - You can easily see the wobbles, misframing, and other subtle mess ups that ruin the magic of the shots. We plan on practicing a lot with the steadicam rig, and we've got an operator who will be in the shreveport, LA area to give us a few hands on pointers and hopefully help out. Workshop would be nice, but I think with lots of practice, time, prep, and being able to see the end product of good steadicam shooting (shining, elephant, etc.) we should be ok. Thanks for the info!

Hi I've got a friend interested in purchasing a steadicam flyer LE. He wants to be able to have some quick movements in some of the shots, which will involve quick movement - jogging speed. Think Wes Anderson's The life Aquatic where they go to rescue the bank stooge. I've heard that you need a "two stage arm" to do any running. The camera we'll be using will be either the future "scarlett" or the xlh1 with a letus 35mm adapter (11lbs?) Anybody know about running with steadicams and how not to break them?

I'm sure there is a reason but I've never heard of it. Is there a reason you can't put lighting gels in front of a camera lens and use it as a filter?? Those Lee filter sample packs have so many different color correction filters, It'd be great if you could use them.