Pawel Saladziak

I'm in a big need of someon's help, particulary, someone who lives in USA. I'm about to shoot a commercial with a famous actor, a star. And I have a problem with visa. I fact I have to go there to assist my boss (I speak english - he doesn't), but if I won't get visa the company will send only the boss and find a trnaslator in US, so its up to me to make everything working for the visa. The deal would be great for me because comapny pays for the filght and hotels and all of this what is expensive (you know, girls and alcochol :) I checked what kind of visa is the easiest way to get, and it is touristic one. But I need to have someone in US to visit :) so maby it would be you or any of your brothers or sisters :) If you agree on that idea of helping me then I would need your invitation (could be sent via e-mail) that contains address and contact info lik phone/mobile address, to show this (in case of beeing asked for it) in embassy while interviewing for visa. Will you help me on that? I will post deatils to person who is willing to help me. best regards Pawel

Anyone recognise that?

And here is the last picture.

And here is another picture.

Ok, so here are the first two pictures.

Jeeeze... I forgot to place a link :) http://cgi.ebay.com/FOTON-A-anamorphic-attachment-forZOOM-FOTON-KONVAS-Arri_W0QQitemZ290177840656

Hi, I have kinor 16CX_3M (almost the same as 2M), and I want to shoot anamorphic. will this attachment work for this if I mount it (by a custom made mount system on rods) on the front of the 100mm zoom lens? regards Pawel

Hi, I have aquired an old power unit, probably with electronic stabilisation of power, but its empty, wiothout cell. Maker is: SCHLUMBERGER. Anyone has idea what cell should I put insie? 16V? maby 24? Dial for filming speeds reads also 48 frames setting so probably it should be more than 12V and 5 ampers. Maby someone knows theese units and know hwat the sockets are for (there are two) which pins in the power outlet socket gives electricity and what is the polarity... etc... any detail will be helpfull. regards pawel

Hi. I have here six pieces of small back attachments for zoom that goes with my kinor16cx-2m as a standard. They are threaded so I can screw them on the rear of the zoom. They are labeld: 1. 8000K (when you loook through, it appers as a warm grey) 2. HC7 4,8x (latin transaltion would be NS7) (when you loook through, it appers as a cold grey) 3. HC6 2,2x (latin transaltion would be NS6) (when you loook through, it appers as a cold grey) 4. 4500K (when you loook through, it appers as a warm grey) 5. COMPENSATOR (afte translation from cyrylic) (when you loook through, it appers as a very very light grey) 6. ---no label--- probably no tint at all What are they for? Can they be used for exaple as a standard kodak filters? If so then which should I take as a rteplacement for filter No. 85, so I can shoot daylight scene on tungsten film? best regards Pawel

Hi, I know it's quite late for response, but if you're still looking for info on DI stuff in poland - call me, I went trough this topic here so can give you some update... my mobile: (+48) 781 254 304

Is it possible to mount this Anamorphic adpter on regular Kinor16 lenses like te 10-100 zoom? Is there any deanamorphic option for viewfinder? regards Pawel

Well, finally I made the powersupply by myself. Of course from ready to use components. I took 12V 10A transformer, and belive me or not when the 120Meter casette is loaded with film the motor takes even 8.5 A. It was measured many times with two meters so the metering is correct. Of course it take so much only at the begining. Motor runs very nice and its really quiet. But the magazines are pretty loud, does any of you have experience of servicing magazines to lube them with grease and oil so the can work more quiet? Probably its again question for Olex :) I also noticed that making the film loop slithly bigger makes camera running less noisy. Now I'm looking sideways to build a blimp housing for the whole camera. My idea is to first build a shell from heavy paper and glue, then cover this with fiberglass fabric and synthethic resin (kind of plastic, I'm not sure of translation) then after hardening I will remove paper cards from inside. Cover hard shell with sound proof foam and then cover this with another shell form fiberglass. Then When basic shell is complete I will cut holes for the viefinder tube, powercable and control lamps. Any ideas how I can improve this project? There is also one thing that makes me worry. I was inspecting film movement, by looking through the lens mount and I noticed that the film starts to move before the gate window is completly covered by shutter disc. Is it correct? regards Pawel

What power supply should I use for 29EPSS motor? I tried 12V 3.33A, and it barely moves the shutter, I was expecting it would be enpugh to run camera at full speed but it is not enough. best regards Pawel

Oleg, tell me please: the viewfinder in KONVAS 2M is also without compensating prism, or it keeps the horisontal position and is not depending on position of thr viewfinder, how do you think, is it possible to get KONVAS 2M viewfinder working in kinor (in case it keeps the hoirsontal axis all the time the same). regards Pawel

And one more question? How fo I detach motor? Is it possible?

Today i discovered that this camera is actualy kinor 16cx-3m so probably the newer version. But one thing is very annoying, this roation of picture in viewfinder. Is there any way to get different viewfinder for this camera to work without this rotation? regards Pawel

Hi. Yesterday I got my first Kinor 16 cx 2m. There is one interesting thing about it, while rotating the (moving up the tube) viewfinder the image inside rotates too. Is there any way of preventing this? And another question: I want connect the power plug to home made power supply (12V, 7A) which pin in the power socket of camera is plus and which is minus? best regards Pawel

Very nice job! But take some time to work on the shapes of shade shapes (trees an street lamps cast too much shades, maby shouldnt be so blurred). Also the car looks like a bit aout of focus isn,t it? For example the highlights above the front wheel could be mor sharp, not so blurred on the edge, don't you think so? Also he whole shadow that car is casting on the background looks a bit too dark. Maby less blurred? The tyres are merely visible in detail, for example the white car in the background has visible details on tyres (like gray tones) an has quite crisp white burnouts on the top of the engine cover so it gives very nice apperanse of highlightsl, that makes it quite shiny. but behind this - it's still a really n ice job done.

Want to buy: berthiot Pan-cinor with "dog-leg" view finder.... with c-mount ar anything that works like this regards Pawel mail me at pawel.saladziak@menatwork.pl

If you are going to edit the shot digitally, and print it back on film, I can do this effect for you free of charge on my flame effect system, its very simple optical simulation regards Pawel

Hi, I'm in need of manual for this meter, maybe someone would send me electronic copy of tdis document? my mail is pawel.saladziak@menatwork.pl

well, due to budget limitations I decided to buy two lightmeters (that sound's funny ha...) but these are used ones: 1. Spectra S-501 meter 2. Gossen Luna Pro F meter How do you think, is this a good choice? I both of them give same readings will this mean that they are still properly calibrated? The 500fps shooting will wait a bit. And I will try 96fps shooting first. best regards Pawel

There is one think that could improve the vfx of the spaceship. It looks like its made of metallic components and its quite a sunny day so some light reflections would be good maybe even some simulations of overexposing of this element in the compositions. Also think about cloud and sky reflections. regards Pawel

Maybe PCFE film school in Prague? p.

Hi. I'm considering buying a light meter, I want to use it for shooting 96 fps 25 fps and in future 500 fps on 16mm and super16mm. For two first speeds I have already some candidates (by the way does anyone here use these?) : 1. Minolta Autometer IV F 2. Sekonic (358 or 558 cine) 3. Spectra Cine meter (the digital one) But for the slomo shooting (500 fps) I do not know what kind of metering tool should I use. Latest Sekonic meters have only 360 fps. Best regards Pawel