andybiz_2005

Hi all, I've posted a wedding dinner montage video for you to view & critique. Please feel free to add any of your comments about my video montage. Thank you very much. Here's the link : http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=66...&pr=goog-sl Vital Statistics : One videographer only (me). Shot with DVX102A (PAL) in 50i. Used Norm matrix Detail Level +1, Detail Coring +2, masterped -2. Edited with Adobe Premiere Pro 1.5, special effects using After Effects 6.5 Fireworks effects using DE Fireworks & bubbles using Foam under "Effects". Your comments & feedback on my montage video is very much appreciated. Thank you very much in advance. :D Andrew

The DVX100A is a good camera to use, but the newer DVX100B is even better at shooting better-quality low-light footage. Also, much of the hazardous chemicals that went into constructing the 100A has been fully taken out of the newer 100B, which makes the 100B more environmentally friendly. If you want to shoot better low-light, I'll have to admit that Sony PD170, or FX1E does this best. If you want true progressive footage, then the DVX100A/100B is for you as the Canon XL2 doesn't record full progressive frames, only a simulated version of progressive. That's why they say 24f on the Canon XL2. No doubt the DVX has a fixed lens, but it is a really wide lens. Panasonic chose a super wide lens compared to a telephoto lens (that the Canon XL2 excels at). It's a trade-off between wide angle lens versus zoom lens. Yes, the DVX has native 4:3 aspect ration CCDs, while the Canon XL2 has native 16:9 aspect ratio CCDs. I don't think the "squeeze" mode on the DVX100A/100B is that good, because some resolution is lost.

First, what makes an ordinary camera different from a superb one is mainly the quality of the lenses it uses. That's what make superb cameras so expensive. For some inspiration on making your own camera, you can check out Jim Jinnard, founder of Oakley, who is currently developing a 4K resolution cinema camera called The Red One. Perhaps he's the right person to give you some advice. www.red.com Only someone with expertise in optics like Jim & lots of money to develop such a camera will succeed.

The DVX has also what is called "Zebra". Go into the menu & set your Zebra 1 at 80% & your Zebra 2 at 100%. Then open the 3.5" flip out LCD panel where you'll see a button called "Zebra" on the camera body. Press it once to engage zebra setting 1 (80%), or press it a second time to engage zebra setting 2 (100%). I would engage zebra 1, esp when shooting in very bright sunlight (assuming your ND filter is engaged too). Over-exposed areas in the picture will have diagonal zebra stripes running across it telling you that you need to bump down the exposure a bit. You can do this be setting your iris to manual & rotate the iris wheel until most of the zebra stripes dissapear. Hope this helps. Andrew

Cameron, you're right that pointing the camera lens directly at strong sunlight can damage the sensitive CCDs & other light-sensitive components in the DVX. Remember as kids we used to burn dried up leaves with a magnifying glass where the sun's rays were directed into a tight sun spot that eventually burned up the leave? Well, the camera lenses act similar to a series of magnifying glasses. So I would think that pointing the camera lens directly at strong sunlight can fry the CCDs. Just excercise caution when shooting the sun. I'm not sure if shooting a reflection of the sun through a body of water would lessen the ill effects on the camera lens. Can anyone verify this? Thanks. Andrew

QUOTE: "I would never use the digitally streched 16:9 mode, it's a pain and it reduces resolution, resulting in a softer image than if you had just letterboxed." Hey Greg, I don't really see the softening that much of a problem. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the way I see it is that the reason why Danielito is going to shoot progressive is to get as close to the film look as possible. We all know that real film produces softer images than say ordinary interlaced video. So, should the slight softening arising from shooting 16:9 stretched be that much of a concern? I do know that it may be a better option to add a bit of gaussian blur to the movie prior to rendering, but does the mild softening effect caused by the 16:9 stretch be of serious concern to the film look?

From what I know, the DVX has 2 modes for recording progressive (F5 for 24p & F6 for 24pAdvanced). The difference between F5 mode is that images are recorded THICK by default & in F6, images are recorded THIN by default. Therefore, if your intended audience will view your DVD on a normal progressive TV, then choose F5. But if you want to show your finnished work on film, on a widescreen, then F6 would be preferred.

I believe the problem is not with the CCDs, but with the mainboard in your DVX. It could be a serious problem with the board, so you might want to take it in immediately to have it checked by authorized Panny service center. Andrew