chuck colburn

Michael The item you are refering to is a BARNEY not a blimp. A camera blimp is a mechanical housing that fits around the whole camera package. The unit that goes around a microphone is sometimes refered to as a Zepplin. A name that I believe was first used by the Sennheiser Co. Chuck

WOW! That 435 is a long sucker! 101.6 in = 8.466666 ft. And tall too.

Check out solar filters, like what are used on telescopes.

If you leave the pellicle out, you will throw the flange focal depth out of adjustment by appx. 1/3 the thickness of the pellicle. This is bad for wide angle lenses which have a very shallow depth of focus.

Hey Joe, This may be just a stab in the dark, but did the operator take his eye away from the eyepiece at any time during the shots with the problem? If he did and did not close the eyepiece shutter and the was a strong low angle light source behind the camera mayby you were getting a flare thru the eyepiece. Don't know about the SR, but it's been known to happen on other cameras. Chuck

See also, http://www.paradisefx.com/pages/services/compact3d.html http://www.hineslab.com/

RobertNC/Patrick Cooper, I agree with your Angenieux tech. But since most zoom lens rear groups are a self contained, (seperate housing) set of optics, there is little chanch of dust getting inside. Just keep the last element clean the way you would the front one. Speaking of front elements, I would not worry to much about that either unless it is a very short focal length which can be subceptible to flare from scratches. More so the smaller the stop that is used. Some or my presonal 35mm still lenses were on the border of being filthy inside (like some car mechanics the last thing I wanted to do after servicing lenses all day was to work on my own) and I never was bothered by it in my prints. So Patrick, since the lens you are talking about is not a wide angle I would not be to concerned about the dust. Also since lenses of this focal length tend to be of simple (fewer elements) design, I don't think it would be to exspensive to have a CLA done to it. 75mm is not such a common focal length I would be interested in hearing about what brand it is. Chuck

Tony and Bruce, That's good to know about xenons. Not owning any new enough vehicles to have xenons in them I did not know this. Thanks, Chuck

There is device (basically a vaiable resitor) that is used with trailer brakes. It looks like two coiled springs with an adjustable slider across them. I have one under the hood of my truck and it allows me to fine tune the action of my in cab trailer brake controller. Since it is designed to handle the large current requiements of the electric brakes it would easily handle the amps headlights (even xenons) draw. Availble at any trailer store and I think they sell them thru J.C.Whitney too.

Hi JB, A "C" mount is 1 inch diameter by 32 t.p.i. (threads per inch) and has a flange focal depth of .690 inch. There is/was similar mount called a "CS" mount that used an adapter that was left on the camera to which various lenses attached. A M42 mount is also a screw mount that is/was used on 35mm still cameras (think Pentax, Praktica, etc.) This is 42mm diameter by 1mm pitch (t.p.i.) and has a flange focal depth of 45.46mm. So you can go from "M42" (or any other still camera lens) to "C" mount, you can't go the other way around. Just as a point of intrest, mount converters always used to be listed as lens mount first and camera mount second. As in Nikon to C mount etc. This prevented confusion as to which lens and which camera one was refering to. Chuck

Thats it, I'm moving to the Great White. Sudbury I think. That way if they come looking for me I can hide behind the big smokestack!

Hello David, A couple of weeks ago I watched Brokeback Mountain on television. A very visusaly stunning movie. And for a few days afterwards I kept thinking about what made the movie such a pleasure to view (besides location, direction, acting, pacing etc. which were all great) and it dawned upon me that I could not remember seeing the camera move much beyond panning and even that was minimal. So I watched it again this time paying heed to camera movements. Besides a few short dollys and a couple of rises and some interior Steadicam work, the camera was basically locked down for the majority of the movie. Just goes to show ya.... Chuck

Wait a minute! Didn't we buy Canada?

I would be more worried about a DP, (I take it he's going to operate also) who would show up on a job without doing the camera tests himself. So far as explaing all that is involved in camera and lens testing to someone who has never done it for themselves, that is a huge undertaking. Your producer wants a written desciption of the actual camera/lens tests and this goes back to that huge undertaking. A short end of tested material I take it to mean camera registration, lens focus tests, film latitude tests etc. Are you sure you want to put yourself in the position of being responsible for this?

Here make it easy on your self. Do what Bernie says but make a copy of this target the larger the better (up to a point). Put the camera as close as you can and focus on the center so when you zoom wide the target stays as large as possible. It's easier to see zoom shift, tracking errors and back focus miscalibration (if any) that way. Chuck http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Siemens_star.svg

Just make sure it's a solid glass filter as opposed to a laminated one. Oh and have them bevel the edge as blood on the lens does not make you a hero! lol

Stephen, Well you know what they say in Hollyweird, "If you can't do the job we can get someone in here who can" Oh by the way I'm not availble for those shoots. lol Chuck

Oh Steven stop whining. Just shoot everything at 1.2 on an 85 or better yet a 135. Don't you know it's the way it's done nowadays? Chuck

I remember Zeiss Mk11's in s/b mount. You beat me to the punch Leo. lol

Watch "The Hitchikers Guide To The Galaxy".

What Rob said. Oh yeah and everybodys favorite, the proctoscope! OUCH

Jeeeeze Phil, Picky picky picky LOL And if you want to get right down to it, a lens is a component of a given piece of optical equipment. Chuck

Ilove it! Half the perfs to start with and then half the stock to test with.

You might also consider one that has interchangeable lenses. This would help with the brightness factor if you are trying to project and image the size of someones face as you could use a longer focal length lens to project a given image to a smaller size area. It would also allow you to not have to put the projector so close to your subject.

Hi Danielle, Most times, relay optics are used to move the image a given distance without changing the size of the original. Chuck