Jean-Louis Seguin

Just created a new category for Optasound on super8wiki. Covers the folowing: Optasound 116R synchronous self-resolving cassette recorder Optasound ESTEC Optasound motorized editing bench More information to follow eventually. http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Category:Manufacturers Cheers, Jean-Louis

Looks like he's in the casket business now. http://www.versaillescasket.com/ Cheers, Jean-Louis

Quite right. The inexpensive adapters sold by an eBayer in The Netherlands do not allow infinity focus. It may be possible to have a custom PL-mount made for your lens but again it will depend whether the physical dimensions of lens will allow such a modification. Cheers, Jean-Louis

The more I look at your pictures, the more it doesn't look at all like Techniscope to me. The gate and the groundglass makings look like standard 1.85:1 which would indicate a standard 4-perf pulldown. The Techniscope aperture is only about 9.5mm vertically; your looks much higher. Cheers, Jean-Louis

How can you be sure it is Super-35? AFAIK, Arri never made a full-frame gate and matching groundglass for the IIc. Outfits such as PS Technik have done conversions but this usually goes along a PL hard-front conversion. Your camera still has its original turret. However, if it is in fact a real Super35 and the turret was somehow shifted to cover the format properly, then that might explain the scratches on the mirror. Taken from a PS Technik document: "The mirror on the Arri35 III and IIC is positioned on the side. For S35 positioning, the PL Mount has to be shif- ted and can cause certain wide angle lenses to hit the mirror." Cheers, Jean-Louis

You have not specified what type of battery you have. SLA, NiCd, NiMH, etc... ? Different battery chemistry require different charging methods. Like Mr. Sprung says, the one tenth of the Amp-Hour rating is the safest to start. Cheers, Jean-Louis

If the batteries are more than 5 years old, they are immediately suspect and should be replaced. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Since the main difference between the IIC and IIB is the interchangeable groundglass, maybe the lens is coming into contact with the groundglass frame if its not pushed in all the way. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Buy with confidence. http://cgi.ebay.ca/390277822449 Thanks! Jean-Louis

After your answers, I tend to agree with Simon, that it could be the governor that is too dry. For years Bolex recommended to lubricate these governors only with graphite powder which leads to the dry sound especially on low running speeds. Oil alone on a clean governor is not recommended. Oil on a governor already coated with dry graphite will show some improvement as the oil and graphite mix. This may not last that long however as the oil will eventually dry up. I use a light moly-grease on a clean governor instead. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Hi Ash, It is common for the camera to make a scraping noise when it is loaded with film. The noise comes from the the film edges rubbing alternately on the insides of the metal take-up spools. However, if the camera is making these noises without film, then something is definitely wrong. Are the sprockets turning while running? Are the take-up spindles turning while running? If you grab the lower spindle while running and let it go, does it resume spinning immediately? It probably wouldn't hurt to have your camera looked at by an experienced tech. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Yes, the shape of the aperture is normal for this lens. Pretty good drawings by the way. The diaphragm mechanism consists of only two moving vanes with a V-shaped cut-out. Remember, this was a very early design of integrated auto-exposure in a zoom lens. Later, this design is to be found in practically all super8 cameras. You're right about the overhang visible at wide open, it is a little peek-in mirror that sends light to the photocell. It doesn't affect the image. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Go to: http://www.apecity.com/manuals/ Download the manual for Bolex Vario-Switar 100 POE which is similar to yours p.4 explains lens removal p.9 explains changing the aperture. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Typically, the motor draws around 2.5 A when running at 24fps. Cheers, Jean-Louis

http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0791306/ Cheers, Jean-Louis

I guess I was repeating erroneous information I heard from another source. It seemed logical to me but your explanation for the sparking seems more plausible as far as the variable speed motor is concerned. What about the governor-controlled motor like the constant speed 24fps model? I would think that operating with close to the prescribed voltage is more important in this case. The original poster seems to have both types. Better to build a battery that can be used interchangeably with both motors. Cheers, Jean-Louis

I just put some together some for a customer. I used a 16.8V 5000mAh pack from Batteryspace with the appropriate charger. http://www.batteryspace.com/nimhbatterypack168v17v5ah84whforreplacementofdivinglightscooter.aspx http://www.batteryspace.com/multi-currentuniversalsmartchargerfor96v-18vnimhbatterypackstamiyaplugullisted.aspx Motor specs are 16 Volts and they draw around 2.5 to 3.0 A when driving camera. Too high a voltage will prematurely wear out the motor through excessive sparking. Battery capacity can be higher than 5000mAh if you wish for more autonomy. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Kevin, I can supply you as many double sprockets as you like but honestly I don't see the point. Also, you may have trouble fitting them to a recent reflex camera as the teeth are very wide and can rub against the spring loaded film guides. Sprockets on later reflex cameras are narrower. There are about five different versions of these sprockets guides over the years. Chers, Jean-Louis

If you mean cameras used in "professional" Hollywood-type productions only, then Adrian's answer seems logical. However, if you mean all types of usage, the most commonly used motion picture film camera is most likely the various models of super8 cameras followed by the Bolex in 16mm. cheers, Jean-Louis

Having one in my hand does not mean I owned one. Lots and lots of cameras pass through my hands. I am a camera repairman. Cheers, Jean-Louis

I would think it is a problem with the groundglass not spreading out the light properly. This sometimes happens when the groundglass is contaminated by oil. Or it could just be a crappy viewfinder design. It has been many years since I have had a Pathe in my hands, but I do remember I did not like the viewfinder one bit. Cheers, Jean-Louis

The black aperture plates have chrome plated side rails. The chrome plated rails do come into contact with the emulsion but outside the picture area. The black part of the aperture plate does not come into contact with any part of the picture area. If the black part is scratched, it will not cause a scratch to the picture. During the conversion, as done by Bolex, the original black part of the steel was probably fading and was re-blackened by a chemical process. This blackening is only superficial and can be worn off by rubbing which is probably what happened in this case. Cheers, Jean-Louis

When you say scratches, you have to be more specific. Emulsion-side and base-side scratches are caused by different factors. The "black" aperture plates are made of steel and should not be easily scratched with an orangewood stick. In any case, the plate only come in contact with the emulsion outside the negative area. If properly machined, this should not be a cause of scratching. It doesn't really matter whether they are steel or anodized aluminium like the later, light colored ones. Scratches in the perf area are sometimes visible because of the claw design. Again, this is not part of the exposed negative. The pressure plate, however is another matter. First, they are not and never were plastic. They are made made of highly polished aluminium, hard-anodized, black on the earlier ones and light colored on the newer super-16 ones. These are contact with the base side across the whole width of the film. They must be cleaned frequently to prevent accumulation of debris that could cause base-side scratches. However, I have noticed that the newer super-16 type pressure plates supplied by Bolex do not seem to be as "hard" as the original ones and may get damaged more easily. Cheers, Jean-Louis

Yep, that's correct. Cheers, JL

This connectors is the power output socket for the WM type magazine take-up motor. 12VDC is present whenever the camera is run. Cheers, Jean-Louis