JB Guillot

Hi everybody, Sorry to bring this topic up from nowhere...but I need some more information about time lapse / time exposure options. Most of my questions may come from subtle translation problems as I'm no English native speaker so, please, make your answers as simple as possible. I'm considering 2 cameras stated above for time lapse / time exposure purposes : Bauer A512 and Nizo Pro, but I don't really get the different options they offer. Here is what I understood : Bauer : - you set the "sequence duration" (max is 12 sec without taped knob) which corresponds to the duration of your sequence when you'll project it - camera is Auto B so it measures the amount of light 'till good exposure is reached then moves to next pic 'till your X pics are done Nizo : - can do the same as above - you can also set the FPS you want (1 fpm max) BUT : * does it work in the above context, meaning : you set the sequence duration and FPS, camera will measure amount of light and stop exposure when needed then wait for the interval you set (through FPS) before exposing the second pic. A- Question could also be : is there a camera on which you can set : 1- sequence duration (final sequence length when projected, ie : I want to see a 15 second time lapse) 2- auto B (ie : I want the camera to expose each pic correctly) 3- interval between 2 shots (ie : I want the camera to take one pic every X seconds) B- Complementary questions : * Is it possible to "override" the auto B (ie : setting manually the exposure time - how long the frame is exposed) ? * What if auto B takes too long compared to set interval (point 3 above) ? Thanks for your help...I feel a bit lost. :(

Same as above : highly recommended, guys are professionals, emails are always answered, service is good, paypal accepted... Just a few remarks : - shipping costs can be a bit expensive but packaging is always good and delivery times are quite short (when products available) - catalog is only in German...but you can send your requests/questions in English

Thanks for your answers, I'll have a look at this ! :)

Back with this old topic... I finally found a Canon FD > C-mount adapter. Last week-end I finally had enough time to test this stuff with a Canon FD 70-210 f:4 lens i found on Ebay. The lens is clear and seemed to work fine : zoom moves with no pain and aperture ring moves easily. The problem comes when I mount the lens on the adapter : aperture automatically opens (when rotating on the adapter) to full aperture. Once everything is ready to film, I can't change the aperture...fully opened is what I have. Do you have the same experience with same/other adapter ? Does it seems "normal" ? Few details : - When lens is not mounted on anything, turning the diaph ring doesn't do anything. Aperture stays half-opened. - when mouting the lens on the adapter (rotating), diaph opens - once mounted, aperture stays fully opened whatever the aperture ring's position... Of course I can always trick the light meter with neutral grey filters...but it's not really easy. Any piece of info on that topic would be great. Thanks for your help.

Glenn sent me some pics...here they are : "I've attached two low resolution images of the ACS rod support system fitted to my Beaulieu 4008 M3. Also shown is a special one-off fixture used to adapt a Tobin synchronous motor to the camera. The matte box is a Chrosziel 3x3. The machining of the leveling plate and rod support is of very high quality, and fine adjustments are provided to assure a perfect fit between camera and matte box." from Glenn.

Could you drop a picture of the system ? Problem with "conventional" rods systems is to find the leveling plate to compensate Beaulieu's handgrip angle...this piece of steal is really hard to find. Having a complete system as you describe could be really great ! :)

Interesting link, thanks ;)

The only info I've ever seen is this pic (and description below - click on pic)... Any further info could be great.

Hi Super 8 enthusiasts ! I've searched the forum for a while but couldn't find the answers I was looking for. Here is the background : - I shoot outdoors, mostly in the middle of nowhere... and sometimes when snowing/raining - I like my Beaulieu camera and don't want to have it ruined by water/dust. Question is : how can I protect my camera ? Usually I just clean the camera after a dusty day to prevent any intrusion within the camera or optics, so dust is not the major problem (although if you have any tips it would be great). Water is much of a problem : last time I shot it was snowing...heavily ! I protected the camera with what was available (extra sweater I had in my bag), a plastic bag could have been a good trick too but I'm looking for something tougher and reusable like the rain covers you can find for camcorders. I searched through the web to find a basic rain cover that could do the trick but I couldn't find anything : most of the rain covers are studied for camcorders with opening for side screen/mic... nothing basic (and cheap) that could fit my Beaulieu. How do you guys do with your Super 8 cameras ? What kind of stuff did you find ? Where ? For how much ? Thanks for your help / tips.

Here are some pics of my set up : The Beaulieu camera with the contactor block (from Wittner) sold in an original Beaulieu cardbox... (no use but looks terribly oldschool) : The homemade external battery pack : plastic block for 6 AA batteries (external charger), 2m cable and DIN contactor (sorry for the Duct Tape). Complete setup : batteries are in a small pouch (for digital cameras) that easily fits in a pocket or can be fixed on your belt or on tripod. I could have used another DIN contactor which is smaller (90° corner shape) to have a more compact setup but this one works good : the camera is well balanced and I've never been out of power for now...

Thanks Andries for this info. This Zigview viewfinder seems great, do you have any links to know a bit more about this stuff ? I only found this webpage but it seems the mounting system is not the same as yours...

Some news on that video tap project : the final version for Beaulieu 4008 is ready and can be baught here. Here are some pics of a full rig.

Christian, Sorry for the delay. I made my own calculations too and I found the same result : equivalent shutter degree is approx. 100 degrees. Sadly I can't really help you as far as the external light meter is concerned, I'm also trying to answer those questions so if you have any news on that topic, feel free to share. As far as I know, there are some high end light meters that permit to set the shutter angle...but they cost twice the price of my Beaulieu :lol: . Even if they are the ultimate tools for non technician like me, it's way too expensive ! On the other hand you can adjust other variables to correct your light meter. ISO wouldn't be my choice. Some light meters seem to have a +/- adjustment on the exposure (just like on SLRs) which would be more accurate I think. Any help / advice on that subject would be great. :) If some of you have some practicle examples, light meter references...feel free to share ! Thanks ;)

Wow :huh: ... I've never seen such a mod before. The finition seems great but it's way too big in my opinion. Above all I would fear to damage my 4008 with such a but attachement on the small threads of the battery block. I'll try to make some shots of my setup ; as it's quite compact you can easily shoot with the external battery pack in your pocket.

It seems I was still a bit sleepy after New Year's party ... :ph34r: My lens is no 6-70mm but 6-66mm Schneider Optivaron with Macro slider so it should work perfectly as macro is compulsory to use the UWL lens. ;) Thanks Andy for your answer ! :) As you have the same lense (or seem to have it), could you tell us more about the UWL III : you can't zoom thru it (no problem) but what is the approximative focal length you get ? All manuals / books seem to say a 7mm become 4mm even when they refer to the 6-66mm ... question is, does the UWL have an influence ONLY when the Schneider 6-66 is set to approx 7mm ? or does it work when it's full wide ? If you have any footage to show us with & without UWL this would be great ! :) Seem that I found my new "must have stuff" for this new year ... :rolleyes:

Hi guys, I recently came across an interesting article in an old smallformat issue (#3/2007) dealing with optical adapters. I was a bit astonished to read such a sentence : In general, the Schneider UWL does not fuction with the 6 - 66 mm [...] and 6 - 70 mm zooms. As a proud Beaulieu 4008 ZMII user, I have a 6-70 Schneider on which I wanted to adapt a UWL from Wittner but this article makes me doubt. Could anyone reveal some truth about thoses adapters ? Thanks for any help / advice / experiences...

Hi Greg, Depending on what you're willing to do, you'll find various tutorials around the web. I chose the external power pack solution which is probably the safest : - no modification on camera / battery - uses standard AA batteries : cheap and easy to find, uses external charger, you can have multiple sets of batteries to prevent any troubles while on set - cheap and easy to make (if you have some basic knowledge in electricity/electronics and can use a soldering machine) I bought a contact block from Wittner (Germany), which is the most expensive part, but as far as it's the one directly linked to the camera, it prevents you from damaging any part or bad wiring. The other parts can be found in shops selling electronic parts. I got the whole set for less than 5 bucks (4 euros maximum) : cable, connector and plastic block to hold the AA batteries. Just follow the indications joined with the contact block (you have 3 wires : ground, 3.6V and 7.2V) and after 10-15 minutes depending on your skills...you have a brand new battery pack for you beloved Beaulieu. I actually had some troubles with a bad contact on my solder points the first time, I had to do it again (for 5 more bucks...) and now it works perfectly ! Hope this helps.

What's the difference between Schmalfilm and Smallformat (other than the language) ? Is the editorial completely different ?What not making an English version of Schmalfilm ?

I feel sad to read this... I discovered Super8 and 16mm a few years ago, I searched around the web and libraries to find some information about my new hobby ... Yes there are various sources of information but when I baught my first Smallformat issue LAST MONTH (!!) I was happy to find some interesting magazine with technical, practicle and genral subjects... this was the magazine of a community, a sort of printed link between all small format cinematographers, amateurs AND pros. I don't know Super8Today, but isn't it possible for both magazines to merge and form one stong super8-16mm media ? What about the Smallformat crew ? Will the writers continue to share their knowledge on some blog/website/fanzine over the web ? Isn't it possible to cut printing costs (black and white on cheaper paper) to keep this mag alive ? Thanks for the job you did...

Thanks for your post Justin ! I've been going through this "blog" and found some interesting grabs or transfer... Good job and keep on experimenting ! "Could be a cool look for your next project..." It surely gives a lot a ideas for upcoming projects... ;)

Thanks ! I'll check this ;)

Good thing to know but loads of question after such a post... :( 1- If I understand it right, I have to shoot "correctly" (ASA 100 on the camera, everything as usual) but tell the lab to push the processing, right ? 2- As a consequence, this trick will only work on full cartridges (not a sequence in the middle of the cartridge), right ? 3- What kind of result can be expected (any examples) ? No doubt I still have LOADS of things to learn about S8 :rolleyes: Thanks ;)

Thanks Mark ! Sadly your first words are what I finally guessed : not enough light for this film (or the other way round, wrong film for those light conditions). If you look at it correctly (and not just 5 minutes as I did :rolleyes: ) cheating with the ASA setting won't change anything : both aperture and shutter are at their maximum so cheating with ASA will just change the light meter data, not the final picture <_< ... I just have to deal with it or finance some negative stocks :(

I took my Super 8 stuff out yesterday ; purpose was to compare both cameras (the Canon 514 XL I own for 3 year and my recently baught Beaulieu 4008) and films, reference being K40, second one being Wittner 100D. 100D seems to be a good choice for my upcoming project (daylight shots in the countryside, mountain, woods...) but I already found its limits on a "dark wood" shot, aperture was maximum but exposure wasn't great (according to the 4008's cell). One question then : should I have cheated with the sensitivity to over-expose the shot ? Any ideas ?

To be honest I baught it last year (as far as I remember, or maybe two year ago)...just a few month before we learnt K40 was definitely out. Since then it's in a box, I've never shot one single cartridge with it. I may try with a really old K40 some day but paying the lab for some crappy picture (last K40 cartridge of this kind turned out purple, black and white... great for experimental stuff :rolleyes: ) just to test the camera... Furthermore as the PMA lens is badly scratched so I can not use it underwater and as my main aim was to shoot underwater stuff well I'm a bit disapponted <_< Here's a pic : As far as cartridges are concerned it might possible to use it with other films and use grey filters to compensate - exemple : K40 is 25 ASA Daylight - Wittnerchrome 100D is 100 ASA D which means 2 diaphs => ND4 filter if I'm right.