Rick Palidwor

Check www.onsuper8.org. They have a pretty comprehensive list of services in different countries. Rick

From the pictures it looks identical to an ST/1000 (I have one in front of me) but that "071" in the door suggests it may be a 1071. There were many tiny variations on these models. What I find intersting on most of these is that the lens focus ring has markings all the way to 100 feet before hitting infinity. Rick

On that camera 500 would be recognized as 400, resulting in a quarter stop over-exposure: negligible with negative and it's not a bad idea to over-expose negative a little. Rick

Excellent reference. Note the1050W light used. Rick

The 1014E will recognize 64. But you will need light and how much light will depend primarily on the amount of space you are trying to light. If you want big wide shots of big spaces, you'll need tons. If you shoot tight close up frames that allow you to get the lights in close, you'll need less than you think. Rick

I would leave the internal filter intact for the sake of not messing with the insides, but simply don't use it (leave your setting at the light bulb and the filter will not be in place). Then buy an 85B that you can screw on. It will deliver better results than the old plastic thing that's over 30 years old. ND filter would only be useful if you are trying to maintain a certain f-stop range. Example: you're outside and need to stop down to f-11 but you don't want all the DOF and the rest of your movie was shot at 2.8 so you stack on the neutral density to allow you to shoot at 2.8 even under bright conditions. As for external meter, I'd use the internal one unless you have reason to believe it is not performing. Rick

Most likely the camera will recognize it as either 160 or 250, resulting in a slight under or over exposure, but either way negative has enough latitude that you'll be fine. Rick

Trust your light meter and make sure you have enough light. If using the cameras internal meter, double-check that it can properly read that film. If not, you probably have to compensate by under-exposing from the reading by 2/3 stop. You need quite a bit of light for that film so if you are short on light make sure you've got a few highlights in the important parts of the frame so that they read. If you are really low on light shoot tight frames so you can get the lights in close. Heck, you could shoot that film with a candle provided the candle is close to the subject. If possible you might consider using an XL (low-light camera) and if you shoot at 18fps instead of 24 that will give you a little extra as well. Rick

The end you slide into the slot is normally square yes, but it probably doesn't have to be perfectly square. As long as it slides into that slot you should hear a "click". To check that it worked open the back door and run the camera with no film loaded. Point at a bright area and slide the key in and out. You should see the light through the lens go from white to slight orange. Rick

If you can afford to lose that part of the frame why not crop to something like 16:9 and it will be masked (assuming it does not extend too far into the frame). Maybe not the best solution but certainly easy. Rick

Phil I have a number of cameras for sale right now, most of them just serviced: Nikon R8 Nikon 8X Super Zoom Nikon Super Zoom 8 Nizo S800 Canon 1014 AZ electronic Canon 814 AZ Canon 518 SV PM me and we can discuss details. Rick

The default setting is daylight. To remove the internal filter for tungsten shooting, you have to slip the special key into that slot at the top of the camera. If you don't have the key you can make one from stiff plastic. Cut the plastic to the right width and slip it in and you should hear a small click. Rick

I never recommend an external meter unless there is serious evidence the internal meter is wacked, and some tests are required with the external meter before any serious shooting. I have shot hundreds and hundreds of rolls on dozens of different cameras and have never used an external meter. Why? The internal meter knows the shutter angle (this info is often not in the manual) how much light is lost through the lens and viewfinder and it automatically calculates new values when you change variables, such as fps. Having said all that I should clarify that I don't shoot in auto exposure mode (or rarely) but it's a reliable way to take a light reading. Rick

I would presume it is similarly notched and the filter will be disabled. But you don't need it anyway. And when you do use an external 85B. Rick

Toronto is indeed blessed to have so many services here in town. I have not heard negative things about any of the following. http://www.exclusivefilm.net/ (reversal only, process and transfer) http://www.blackandwhitefilmfactory.com/index.html (reversal only, process and transfer and print-duplication. Don't let the name fool you, they handle 64T colour as well) http://www.niagaracustomlab.com/ (negative processing only) There are also additional transfer facilities which handle reversal, negative and widescreen (super-duper) 8: www.photoplays.ca www.justinlovell.com Personally I have used Exlusive for years and they were very generous deferring some costs when we made the feature Sleep Always so I feel loyal to them and I get my transfers done by Photoplays as it is run by my long-time friend Mitch Perkins. For negative of course I would use Niagara. Rick

Shoot the Tri-X B&W. That's the one current Kodak stock your camera will understand. Rick

There are probably thousands of people who will suggest you do not use ANY of Pro8's services. They have a horrible reputation and it's well-deserved. The only reason they are still in business is there are a lot of people out there who, for some unknown reason, think that there are no alternatives. Someone I know here in Toronto recently shot a bit of super 8 as part of a larger professional production and they bought a film/process/transfer package from Pro 8. I asked why. They said "who else is there?" And they are otherwise knowledgeable industry people. The real shame is that they could have done everything they needed - obtained stock, processing, transfer, even blow-up to a larger format within a several-block radius of where they were shooting. Another friend of mine recently had to shoot some super 8 to be used within a documentary for the Discovery Channel. I told him to avoid Pro8 but sure enough, the company behind it, located in the UK, had already purchased a Pro8 package. Half the rolls came back black. They sell re-canned film of questionable history, and/or after questionable recanning. Disgusting. Can we vote Pro8 off the island? Rick

R = "run" RL = "Run-Lock} For run lock, start on R, pull the trigger and turn toward Run-Lock. The camera will now run even after you let go of the trigger. To stop it turn it back toward R and it will click off. Rick

Yes you can. It will be one of the intervalometer settings. Someone here may know the exact setting (they are not marked) but you should be able to listen and figure out which one clicks every two seconds. If at first you don't find one that clicks at the correct rate switch the fps dial (18/24/54) as it is coupled with the intervalometer dial. Rick

You are right that Canon has Through the Lens metering (as does Nizo I believe) so yes, internal meter should be accurate (if working properly). I always use internal meter and would have mentioned this, but it was not the original question, though you anticipated the logical follow-up question. Good to know. Rick

The exposure time varies with the filming rate (fps). Exposure time = (1/speed in fps) X (angle of shutter opening/360) With both those cameras the angle of the shutter opening like 150 or 170 degrees (someone else here might know exactly). Rick

Avoid HDV at all costs. It's highly highly conmpressed "fake HD" and the format, at least here in Canada, is already considered "dead". Rick

On the left side of the camera you should see a dial with an "A" (for auto exposure) and "M" (for manaul). "A" is an on/off setting but if you go to M you'll see you have room to move and if you look through the viewfinder you'll see the f-stop markings and moving the dial in the M zone you'll see you can set the pointer to the desired f-stop. IOW, take a reading wthi your meter and once you have decided on an f-stop turn that dial to set it. The 0 +1/+2 etc dial is if you are using the internal light meter. This camera (I believe but could be off) defaults to 40 ISO and you use the + and - dial to compnesate based on the speed you are shooting so the internal meter reading remains accurate. Hope that helps Rick

Any and all - whatever conditions you have. The light meter recommends an f-stop that will achieve an average of 18% grey (considered "normal") in each instance. The main reason you are testing is to see how much light is lost in transmission with your particular camera: the light meter will give you an "f-stop", which is pure theory. In reality some light is lost in the lens and the viewfinder system. Taking that into account you arrive at a "T-stop". I prefer to use the camera's internal meter (assuming it works) as it gives me T-stops from the get-go. So start with your meter reading, run some tests bracketed on each side, and determine the best compensation for that camera. If you want to save a bit of time and film I would start by opening up about 1/3 of a stop from the meter reading as a starting point though not knowing your viewfinder system that is just a guesstimate on my part. You'll see on the film cartridge that the film is rated at 40 ISO when filtered so set your meter there to account for the light lost by the filter. Another reason I like the itnernal light meter: it accounts for this automatically. Rick

Since I don't think anyone has come out and said it yet: Ashley, don't buy the Keystone. Not worth the $20. I also don't think you should get the Canon 310XL as some have suggested since you cannot control the exposure and it will mis-read the 64T. I own one and they are great to have in the tool box for low-light shooting, but not as a main camera. And I don't think you should buy a high-end camera yet, unless you know you want to go there. Find a reliable Canon 518 or 814 auto zoom or something similar for $100-200. Ashley I have some cameras for sale if you want to PM me. Rick