ill make points as per your post.
Thanks, Kevin, that was what I wanted to know. DS 8 conversion doesn't change the pressure plate setup; it just widens the gate. Do you know who I ought to send it to to have that done?
the ds8 conversion makes the gate bigger, changes the claw and alters the pulldown distance. you should send it to jk camera aka meritex. google those names and throw in bolex in the search string if they dont show up. consider asking them to convert your camera to 'super duper8' they wont know what this means but essentially you are asking them to make it have an aspect ratio of 1.5 by widening the gate. this will give you better telecine. you would then have to use different lenses methinks (i dont know if the original switars will cover the extra imag area).using the original switars probably means repositioning the turret a bit. the easier method is t just use 16mm lenses. to do this you need to ask jk optical t make you a c mount spacer for 16mm lenses. its only a couple of hundred dollars and opens a whole new world of lens options and coverage for super duper8 is no longer an issue.
And I haven't been able to find ds8 film so far -- where can I get that?
kodak will sell you the ektachrome 100D in batches of five rolls of 400 feet otherwise you can contact john schwind on here he sells it in 100 foot rolls.
Yes, it has Switar primes on it (I think it wasn't you but someone else who talked about that). One of them is a little wobbly and you can move it a bit with your finger, but the image still looks OK, and another of them is hard to focus (the ring is hard to move), but the third is fine. I finally got the real manual so I can begin to practice loading it. The online ones' pictures are illegible.
te lenses sound like they need a servicing and that can be costly. mabye consider my point of using 16mm lenses instead.
Is crystal sync better than Nagra Pilotone? Or maybe you can't hook up Pilotone to H8.
you cant really do pilotone and you wouldnt want to. a tobin sync motor is the best option especially since you can even set them to do thousands of speeds all in sync. you need to see if your camera has a 1:1 shaft. its near the other shafts where you can backwind the film. how many shafts do you see? can you post a picture? if the camera doesnt have a 1:1 shaft you can either get a tobin syn motor and for a small fee clive can change the gear in an 8:1 motor for you to work with the camera on jk optical can install a 1:1 shaft for ou. you can then just find a 1:1 shaft tobin motor. let me know if you go this route for i might have a tobin motor milliframe controler for sale as i have a spare.
ps, the nagra will work independantly of the camera providing it has a sync card in it. dont think about connecting the camera to the recorder, its hell.