Kristian Schumacher

Can anyone give me an idea of cost for having the LOMO lens refitted to PL? I guess that could be an option for increasing the value before selling it....

OK, so I went ahead and bought the big lot of camera gear. So I can e-mail photos to anyone interested. Will list it on ebay in a week or so if no response here.

Hi everyone, I just posted some equipment for sale in the Marketplace section ( http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=47062 ) Would anyone help me out with an idea of the value of this stuff? How much does this stuff sell for? Or does it sell? Any advice appreciated

I have come across some russian equipment from a friend that I am mainly interested in parts of (mainly the lenses), and would like to check the market for the camera and accessories. I should specify that the equipment is not yet mine, but I will buy it if I get any takers for all or parts of the following: 2KSK Pin registered reflex 35mm camera (russian mitchell copy). Produced in 1972. I looked over the camera yesterday and to me it resembles a 35r - Mitchell - but please correct me if anyone knows better. It looks in good condition and the current owner used it for animation up until 3-4 years ago. The camera has been converted to accept B&H perforated film. Video assist High speed motor 24 fps motor Single frame motor 1 1000 ft mag 1 400 ft mag 2 or 3 very small mags (50 or 100ft?) for animation, I guess 1 Spherical viewfinder 1 anamorphic viewfinder All cables and transformers, power supply 1 Anamorphic 75mm f 1:2 LOMO lens (model 35 bac 23-2) The lens is in very good condition. I would rate it a 9/10 both cosmetically and optically. (I have two identical lenses, would therefore sell this one) The equipment is located in Oslo, Norway. It is quite a big heavy package, so international shipping will be a bit expensive. Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos, but I can go back to take some if I have people seriously interested. I have the 75mm lens and can send photo of that if you are interested. Please send me a PM if you are interested, and i will try to get you as much info as possible.

Thanks again Bernie, I will give that a go. Just from a little testing it seems I want 2-3 mm though to get the close focus I want. But your way seems really good. I may need some longer screws to put is back together with a 2-3mm shim. Kristian

Hi indrakorg Firstly, you need to change your user name to your real name. So are the rules. Secondly, I don´t think it is an Arri camera, so maybe this should be in a different forum ;-) Thirdly though I would very much like to find out the same things you want. I believe the camera looks like the one below, from the BBC "Life" series. So if anyone knows what camera this is, I would very much like to know as well. I thought Phantom when I watched the series, but then grabbed this photo from the "behind scenes" - thing. Kristian

Thanks for that Bernie, It is not a screw mount though. The lens is nikon, the camera is Canon and the adapter between. Kristian

Hi, I have a small problem which is a bit unusual, I think. I use a 5d with an adapter and Nikon lenses. The lenses both focus a little bit past infinity, but that does not bother me. But I mainly focus on underwater filming, and I would like my two wide angles to focus a bit closer (one is Nikon 20m, one is Zenitar 16mm) They now have a focus limit of about .4-.5 m but I would like to make them focus down to 15-20 cm. I guess theoretically I just need to have some chim in the mount to have a slightly greater ffd - but how can this be done in practice? I can put something either side of the adapter, or maybe buy some more adapters and hope to cet one that is a bit too thick? Thanks for any advice, Kristian

Hi Tom, I have seen your beautiful timelapses - absolutely stunning.. I am just curious why you would choose to change shutter speed during the shoot. Wouldn´t a set exposure give a nice fade in at sunrise and fade out at sunset? If I change exposure by say 1/3 stop from one frame to the next ( i think that is the minimum on my camera), will it look fine and not "jumpy" ? Just trying to pick your brain so one day my timelapses will be as nice as yours ;-) Thanks, Kristian

OK, I had a quick look at my camera again to see how the thing should come off. I think when you have removed the 4 hex screws on the central panel and taken off the front with the lens mount, you should be able to wiggle the thing out regardless of which shutter (mine is 140 degrees, not 160). With the front plate off, it will also be easier to keep an eye on the shutter blade to make sure it doesn´t get caught and damaged. Behind the panel there are two large electrical connectors between the camera body and the central panel. I got some extension chords for these to be able to get to the workings behind the panel with the camera running. This wasn´t really necessary, though as the only three cables to reattach were from pins 10 and 11. Mine has the DC motor and I really only want to use it with battery power. I´d be curious to see if you could run the AC versions by attaching a 30v battery to pins 10 and 11 though. In my camera all the connectors were hooked up to the plug, even the ones that say AC in the manual. Once you get the central plate out I suppose it should be possible to manipulate the gears to get the timing right on your shutter. Kristian

I would, but.... My camera is the 54 model with the boresight viewing system. When I converted to s16 and recentered the lens mount, a lot of stuff had to go from the front plate - leaving lots of openings for light to get in. After I was happy with the adjustments, I covered any porential light leak with black silicone and tape. So Taking the front off would be a bit messy and need that cleaned up and doing over again. Sorry. I will have a look at it from the inside tomorrow and see if I can come up with a guess as to how it comes off, though. Kristian

Ehhm... Yes. It looks like maybe someone took the shutter off without thinking. What you did to check is absolutely right and shows that the registration is way off. I am no expert on this - and there are many around here - but I would think the registration could be fixed by simply taking the shutter off and putting it back in in the right position. And then you will have solved your original problem too :-) I am not sure how it comes off as I haven´t done that myself. And with the ever present risk of fiddling with something until it is beyond repair (it happens to me, anyway....) I don´t want to try it on mine now that everything works well. I hope you get an answer here, but I have a suspicion that you may need to figure this one out yourself - and then of course tell us how you succeeded or... or... you know, the other thing. I think there cameras are getting quite rare, and people who know them well mechanically even rarer. Kristian

And these are exactly the things I wanted to find out when I first got the camera ;-) There are a couple of discussions here about it like this one: http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?sh...amp;hl=milliken If you search for "Milliken", some more will show up that have helped me a lot I have so far only used short pitch film - so the wrong one for my camera as well - and have not had a problem that I can blame on the perfs. Kristian

Hi again Roger, To power up the camera I don´t think you strictly need to get to the interior (it may be possible to "fish" out the cables you need from behind the plug), but it should make it a lot easier. When I opened mine - which I have done a few times before I was happy with everything - I didn´t need to remove the shutter. I eased the mechanism out with the shutter still attached. But the shutter had to be in the right position in order to not get stuck. It may not be possible with your shutter of 72 degrees, though. My camera has a 160 deg shutter so there is I guess more room to play with when easing it in and out of the body. Not the most help I guess, but good luck. Kristian

No worries, and I am glad you liked it. I have had so much good help from this forum getting my head around film cameras, so it is very nice if I can be of help to some too :-) Kristian

Thanks Henri, s16mm uses only perforations on one side, the right if you stand behind the camera. So the top claw and sprockets - as you look into the camera when loading - were removed. Finding info about the camera was difficult until I got hold of the manuals for mine and a few other models. I have uploaded it to my server for anyone interested: http://kameraundervann.no/MillikenManual.pdf Wiring is as it says in the manual, pins 10 and 11. I replaced the plug on mine, using an XLR connector. Thanks, Kristian

Here are a couple of clips on Vimeo at I think just under 200 fps. Kristian http://vimeo.com/8443444

It is a bit fiddly, yes ;-) I pull out about half a meter of film, tread the mechanism in the light. Then I do the cores/spools in the change bag. A little tricky, but not at all impossible. But the order is a little different to my video demo, as both feed and take-up spools go in last and in the dark. K.

Thanks, No, it can take up to 400 ft on a core. The takeup I think needs to be on a 400 ft daylight spool. I made a little core adapter myself, and it worked fine to feed off. I haven´t tried take-up to a core, and don´t see the need. I have since got hold of a core adapter that is a bit more sturdy than the one I made myself. I used a 400 ft spool the first (and only) time I used the camera - that was before my s16 conversion. Just had to remember to get that spool back from the lab to use again. The first footage didn´t come out that nice, but that wasn´t the camera´s fault ;-) That was also before I got the power supply working properly, so it only ran a bit under 200fps. I can still upload some short clips from the r16 footage to give you an idea. The image was at least rock-steady - and in spite of using regular perf film, not .300... I will give you the link when I have uploaded a clip to Vimeo. I am making an underwater housing for it now - mainly for nature stuff, but I may try some surfing stuff as well. Fun-fun-fun! Glad you enjoyed it, Kristian

Hi all, Just thought I´d share one of my camera projects with you. I had a really hard time getting info about this camera when I first got it, but got it running and have now done my kitchen-table-hack-job-s16mm-conversion. It looks a bit rough - gaffer tape to seal light leaks and so on, but seems to work perfectly up to 300 fps. Just as the people at Alan Gordon, I found that the camera would chew up the film at higher speeds than that. This is of course because I have removed one pull down claw and half the sprockets. OK, so with power supply, tools and so on it cost more than 100$ - and quite a few hours - but I enjoyed it and hopefully some camera DIY-guys on this board will as well. Shot a short demo of the camera here: http://vimeo.com/8411288 Kristian

I can recommend Les Bosher as well. He can be a bit hard to reach by e-mail. I ended up talking to both him and his son on the phone on different occasions. Both great guys, and my super 16 mod came back great.

I would also go with the Scarlet - if only it existed.

Oh, Mama.... Don´t take my Kodachrome away!

The Nikon-to-Canon adapter is supposed to have the right dimensions to compensate for the difference in ffd between the two standards, but mine (and I believe quite a few others) are not accurate. Some too thin, some too thick, giving a focus that can be either side of what is correct. I have also heard from people that say theirs are spot on. A matter of luck, I guess. I am personally not bothered too much about it. Normally, I focus through the finder, but I have also used Nikon lenses that I have had to "calibrate" and mark with tape on the lens barrel for accurate focus by tape. The expanded focus function is OK for setting the focus mark right. Sorry Karl, but the focus does not change with the sensor/film size, nor the focal length. Only the crop of the image will change, so the angle of view will be narrower the smaller the frame ;-) Kristian

I agree. It is probably in the adapter. When I use Canon lenses the focus is always spot on. With Nikons it varies a little depending on which adaptor I use, but it can be quite a bit off mark. Kristian