Andries Molenaar

Hm, then it is likely a direction reverser. Don't understand how that can work when then stop pins near the film gate are not swapped. Certainly a strong motor if can transport the film past the stop pin if the wrong one is switched in. :) Still, glad that it works.

on all forums it is reported as dead as a donkey. I haven't gotten any reply either. And this was to my reply on a special offer on their initiative. And before that the last time I ordered it took forever to get the emailing done. And get some action on shipping. It is same as with these other super-8 side operations where the owners get bored and even get angry with people who want to spend money. Stupid ***. They are damaging the imago of serious super-8 applications. don't send money and recall it if you can. It is far better to order real fresh film from retro8.com (use the english pages :) ) I t may seem steep but considering it is all included. Or order from FFR in germany if you are in Europe.

Opening is not too difficult. Would be interesting to see what they modified into the camera. I really am into these R10 camera's. First you need to take off the EE knob. See if you can take off the metal cover disc and then take out the screw. The left side leatherette should lightly be warmed and then be peeled off. It has been done before because of the mod. It now depend on the glue they used. After it is off you wil find a number of screws which hold the left cover. Take them out and lift the cover. There is some extra wiring for the switch. Then start the discovery. Mind the controls. Don't displace these because otherwise placing it back becomes a hassle. You can use it without the leatherette. Paint the panel for effect or use a replacement fabric. You could have it checked by retro8 in Tokyo: Nikon R10 repair address Likely the work isn't to expensive. The shipping could be more of a problem.

2 and 3 indeed contradict each other. Sound films is rare and only available on aftermarket from old-stock and certainly will run out soon for ever. You likely will get an offer soon for really expensive old stock Ektachrome and Kodachrome with sound. About 17 and 12 years old :) I have some Kodachromes left too. :) See what I'll do with these the next months/christmas etc.

The bulb is a part of the circuitry and the thing doesn't work when the bulb is loose or broken. The bulb is a standard component and can be bought everywhere. Check for example www.conrad.de Or shops around the corner so to say.

oh, and check the batteryholder contacts. on the clip and inside in the camera...

The switch is definitely a homebrew mod. We can only guess what the purpose is. You would have to take the left panel off to see where the wires go. The motor is close to the new switch. If that has anything has to do with it... With NIKON R10 and R8 it happens at times that the REV/FOR switch on the left panel is unintended on REV. The camera then only exposes 100 frames and stops by itself. And only starts again when you slide it to FOR again. :)

Nope :( But better check if you really need them. Many cameras and meters just work fine and correct with 1.5v alkaline which cost very little and can be had anywhere.

1999 is excellent to use. even with non-cooled storage. people will/should fight over these :)

For solid and economical splicing you better get a Catozzo CIR model. Uses straightforward tape which makes for a nice price of 1-1.5 cent per splice. Many telecine business use these CIRs. The splicers are a bit expensive when new but there are offerings in the classifieds for used ones. The tape is available from US en EU sellers like Chambless and Wittner. Or CIR of course :)

The UWL III just doesn't work with a R10. A pity because 67mm screwthread fits so nicely. Do not buy anything from Mr. Uhmeyer in the 'Super8 Camera Shop' he is a crook and sells scratched lenses and cameras with serious troubles without blinking. The garantees he gives are just fake. Check the forums and you will find plenty thread on this fraud.

Apparently the camera is not in such a good condition. Finding the components to replace is the trick and will take time. I cannot make estimates for others. If the lens focus-ring doesn't turn easily it either has taken up a lot of dirt or more likely has taken a drop. Which of course the seller didn't mention.

Of course they don't. Turning/giving business away would be rather stupid. Become a reseller yourself you get a reseller discount, and returns are much faster. BTW I doubt European services are attractive at moment with Euro/Dollar rates. Do the calculations yourself.

Opening isn't to difficult. However, Nizo silberling are maintenance free. No lubing needed. The described problem comes from aged degenerated capacitors. The trick with the intervalometer rebuilds the capacitor a bit. Like in aged electronic flash units. Which ones would be anyone's guess :(

I don't understand how you can be camera operator with so little understanding of classic optics and photography. Find the manual and do some further reading on DOF, aperture control, and focusing. Everything will prove fine then. Good luck.

Good luck but I think you are overestimating demand. I don't understand why you do not apply for becoming listed Canada reseller for Andec. Andec does the processing work for Wittner and only adds costs and two weeks extra in time.

The sliding knob with red point is for macro. Leave it in the upper, locked position. You cannot focus on the aerial image. For testing focusing swing in the ground-glass. Have the camera on a tripod. adjust the viewfinder for your eye. Make sure yu see the needle sharp. Open the aperture fully. And see if you can focus the image. Really far objects and things closer by. The distance markings should be correct for the focused items. Run brief shots of films on the selected items. That way you see if things line-up. Likely you don't collimation at $200-300 Searh the web for a manual. www.super8.no

So you can tell without a collimator and just from your aerial image, which is not focusable at all that you need your lens collimated ??? What a pack of nonsense. Collimation is just checking and adjusting the rear lens of the imaging-lens if it projects images from infinity in focus on the film plane. You would need a collimator for that. If your images are in focus but dull collimation has nothing to offer. If you haven't dropped the lens it is unlikely to be needing collimation. If it is not fogged somehow and the internal filter is clear it is at the best it can do. Send it to Bernie at super16inc.com in USA Maine to have it checked if you must. He handles Beaulieu S8 cameras too. Likely the images look dull only when compared to a much better and contrastier character lens as the Nikkor. The Nikkors on the R8 and R10 are the utmost best lenses for S8 filming. Not to forget the filmgate and stop-pin on these cameras. Too bad they aren't available in C-mounted tubes. On its own the Angenieux may look nice enough.

On 4008 the shutter mirror deflects the light into the prism. The viewfinder optics peer into this prism. With a little turn-knob one can swing in or out the ground-glass. The viewfinder thus either looks onto the ground-glass or into the aerial image. The lightmeter gets its light from a half permeable mirror. Part of the prism. I.e. the splitter. Not for image but just the light. A 6008 doesn't have a swingable ground-glass. The prism is constructed differently. There is a permanent center field of ground-glass for focusing. DOF check is not possible

Oh really, better open a body and see for yourself. The light comes from the mirror on the shutter. Is then mirrored into the prisma where some light is diverted to the lightmeter. http://www.beaulieu.de/pages/s8_azub8.php Sucherprisma 4008 Strahlenteilerprisma für die Ausspiegelung Sucher/Belichtungsmessung der 4008er Kameras Best.-Nr. PC249 - (198.28 EUR netto) 235.95 EUR brutto At this price you could get 4-5 bodies :) If this glued mirror surface is letting go you get partial images. Damage is not in focus. If your groundglas is displaced (unlikely, don't hold your breath) you could try to swing it out. Was it swung in when it dropped?

Are you sure the front lens is still rotating smoothly? Many cameras have taken the same drop and often the distance adjustment is not so nice any more after that... The image stays the same when then axis rotated? Seems a bit like the mirroring-surfaces in the beam-splitter have come loose. Or if you are lucky only the viewfinder tube could have become displaced a bit. From a part-spender you could find a replacement splitter. Or buy one from Wittner. It is not rocket-science but you need to know how to handle such a repair. In USA you have Ernie at super16inc.com who knows his way with Beaulieu. Otherwise there are Wittner in Germany and Bjorn Anderson in Sweden. And possibly some others. But due to the dollar-euro rate shopping in Europe is not so funny at the moment.

Isn't film about images with movement in them? It is a lot of music with a series of stills. Only movement comes from the unsteady frame.

www.super8.no

It reads all correctly coded cartridges. Means that "It reads all correctly coded cartridges."

R10 use the auto exposure on single frame too. It it is switched on :) It reads all correctly coded cartridges. The lens is as good as in any other focal position. :) Daylight film goes without filters when shooting in daylight... Thus put a filter key in if the cartridge is not coded correctly. Or anyhow :)