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Frank Wylie

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    Culpeper, VA
  • Specialties
    Film and digital photography, film history, cinematography (both kinds) and anything to do with photography. I have owned and operated many kinds of 16mm and 35mm cameras, flatbeds, contact printers, optical printers, Hazeltines, film processors and so on.

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  1. FSU (Former Soviet Union) is a term used a lot for gear originating from that entity. Maybe an option?
  2. Stretch a stocking over the lens and burn holes in it to create sharp areas of the scene. Cut an irregular iris out of black card stock and place it very close to the front lens element to make a broken-up vignette around the image.
  3. "https://cool.culturalheritage.org/byform/mailing-lists/cdl/1991/0156.html Wet printing (which has been turned into the generic "wet gate" term) was developed by Technicolor to extend the lives of their printing matrices during production of 3 color Technicolor prints.
  4. I have to agree with Dom. It looks like the film is being pushed through the gate by means of the loop formers, rather than being advanced by the take-down claw. The Krasnogorsk has a terrible auto loading feature and the loop formers tend to be more of a drawback than a help. We had two at Ohio State University and I wound up removing the loop formers entirely and having the students manually thread the cameras. This helped somewhat, but the gate and take down claw are not well made and it could still lose the loop when the pressure plate spring became fatigued. If nothing else, find a way to fix the loop formers at maximum distance from the gate and manually thread the camera with a dummy roll to see if this solves the problem. It also helps to NOT let the camera spring tension totally run out during a take, as the film can slip in the gate while winding the camera and cause the film to lose a frame when the spring re-tensions and the claw cycles partially until the trigger stop engages. This small bit of movement, against an area of the film that has no perforation, will cause the loops to become uneven. Eventually, with enough takes, you will lose the upper loop due to this frame skipping and the problem will manifest itself.
  5. Aaron, I went through what I can access at the moment and didn't see anything related to Moviola flatbeds, sorry! Will keep an eye out for anything I can find, but it's not looking good. I have moved many times since then and it might have fallen victim to a purge, but I will still keep you in mind as I unearth new boxes. Frank
  6. Aaron, I might have some literature on this flatbed; I will have to search and see if it has survived many moves. I worked with and maintained several of these flatbeds at Ohio State University in the early 1990's. The main issue I had with these flatbeds was the tendency for the platter motor drive cards to malfunction and go into extremely fast shuttle mode without warning. These, of course, were flatbeds that had heavy, sustained use that contributed to their break-downs, so a unit that is treated less drastically may not encounter these problems often. Routine maintenance should include examination of these controller boards/cards and careful cleaning of any edge connectors to avoid corrosion of the contact points, which can cause higher resistance and eventual failure. In any event, I will attempt to dig through my "archive" and see what I can find. Frank
  7. Oh, I agree with you there, but I think some are not talking the difference between Caviar and Lobster, but between steak and potted meat... 😅
  8. Not avoiding your question, Dom, just trying to dig the source of this information out of my rusty mind. I may be totally off base here, but I seem to recall it being conveyed to me by a Dr. Robert Wagner of the Ohio State University Department of Photography and Cinema back in the early 1990's. As I vaguely recall, he indicated that Barnack had experimented with cine frame sized camera frames and was dissatisfied with the results, therefore he formulated the new 36 x 24 frame format in response. Barnack then proceeded to design lenses to cover the added width and developed the famous lenses everyone knows so well. That's totally anecdotal, I understand, but that's probably where that came from...
  9. When Vistavision was introduced, it was in part a measure to try to bring back cinema audiences to motion picture theaters due to the encroachment of Television on their revenue streams. Being that 35mm 4 perf had been a standard for about 60 years, the amount of physical infrastructure in place around the World made it economically unreasonable to adopt a totally new standard that would require total retooling of the entire process from inception to projection. There were many other large format systems before and after the establishment of 35mm, 4 perforation as the standard; American Biograph shot and projected in 68mm in the late 1890's and there were several larger format systems developed in Europe about the same time, but Edison's format won-out for some non-obvious reasons. Edison failed to secure patents for his system in Europe, thinking it was a toy/fad that would soon pass and that it simply wasn't worth the effort and expense to establish these "foreign" patents. This left the field open in Europe for entrepreneurs who wanted to enter the moving image business to dodge the royalties and costs of universally adopting any other format which would have encumbered them with said payments. So, it was legal and profitable to copy the machinery and format of Edison as a standard to open both kinescope and theatrical parlors, as well as devise new projection and cameras systems based on that format.
  10. I think you can safely say that if an inexpensive, super high quality scanner could be built for mass production, it already would be on the market and selling like hotcakes.
  11. Historically you are looking at this backward. As David Mullen points out, the standards for 35mm framing were established by cinema, not by still photography. Leica and other 35mm cameras were developed to use cinema film well after the 35mm Silent Aperture was established and eventually went on to formalize the 36 x 24mm frame size for still photography. Even this was subject to some variations, as both Leica and Japanese still camera manufacturers initially used 4:3 aspect ratio frames, but quickly thereafter adopted the 3:2 aspect ratio for 36 x 24 (nominal). Silent Aperture cinema, the image 4 perforations high with an aspect ratio of 4:3 or 1.33:1, IS the historically accurate, original "Full Frame" specification. Don't confuse Cinematic "Full Frame" with Still Photography "Full Frame"; the latter being co opted by marketing types to hawk DSLRs with sensors more closely sized to typical 35mm still camera frames .
  12. Determine hyperfocal distance on the lens and fix it with a pin to that fixed focus point. Make some waterhouse stops to vary the aperture.
  13. I would try Robert Shanebrook @ http://www.makingkodakfilm.com/. He might have an idea, as Kodak was intimately involved in many NASA projects...
  14. Amber, That's a lot to cram into a reply, so I am going to suggest you obtain a copy of this book; https://www.amazon.com/Bare-Bones-Camera-Course-Video/dp/0960371818 It's inexpensive and will answer a lot, but probably not all, of your questions. Shooting color for black and white can be done a number of ways. The easiest is to shoot it normally in color and then de-saturate (remove) the color in Premiere. Beyond that, I wouldn't worry too much about technique at the moment; get a shoot under your belt and start looking at the footage. You will see what you like and don't like; take it from there. Don't try to get too complex at first, it only tends to discourage. Finish something and be ready to learn from your mistakes. Remember; if you got it perfect the first time, you should retire. Good luck
  15. Have you checked your viewfinder for a possible light path to "kick back" through to the aperture? I haven't personally shot with an ACL, but have had mysterious flicker issues with other cameras that were traced back to a reflex viewfinder eye cup not sealing against my face correctly. Is your eye cup in good shape? Does it fit your face properly?
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