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Kyryll Sobolev

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Kyryll Sobolev last won the day on March 19 2017

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About Kyryll Sobolev

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    Camera Operator
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    Toronto

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    http://www.kyrylls.com

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  1. use a clear garbage bag for the camera - they are bendable, cuttable, and very easily replaceable. you can still see and push camera buttons through them use small binder clips to attach the bag to the mattebox cover the on-boarx monitor with a clear ziploc bag, pull it tight, and wrap elastic bands around the base of the noga arm be creative - we use food wrap (saran wrap? cling wrap?) if needed, bongo ties, elastic bands, clips of all sorts
  2. focal length is the distance between rear nodal point to the point where light crosses the optical centre axis of the lens (which at infinity is the plane/film/sensor)
  3. i would not worry about a 1-2mm dip it happens quite frequently with strong motors preston dm1x can move a lens at either end point. it almost never happens on primes, but mostly on zooms optimos for example (28-76 or 45-120) have their focus ring furthest away from the mount, so a strong motor will push them you can turn down the torque, use your hands to keep the motor and lens steady on calibration, or add lens support bracket if possible
  4. jeremy benning explains in detail how he has prepped 'the expanse', at least from the lighting/set design side and this is an interesting podcast as well, where jeremy talks about shooting a tv series
  5. I have two well-stocked Digital Bartech kits for sale Full description of items and better photos available here: Kit 1 https://drive.google.com/open?id=1owEPj7XZVyePTZ9E4warbng8wn4zKCUl $4500 USD Kit 2 https://drive.google.com/open?id=16kAQqs01NUKoFEcdCdaQTUKDuB2nOCF6 $4500 USD If you buy both kits at once, I will discount the price to $7500 USD Also, I have some accessory cables which you may find useful: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1z42envvzhL8wpijqqyzIXKen18Go_Bgd $100 USD Located in Toronto, Canada. Buyer pays shipping.
  6. up for sale is my vintage Ronford Baker F15S fluid head 100mm bowl decent condition and actually still working great for its age all the photos can be viewed at this google drive link notes about the travel case: - the right-side latch is broken (you will see in the photo) - the bottom of the case has a small hole in it, from where the head used to rest (i now let it rest on the tie-down, which is not as sharp) - case size is 12"x13"x14" - case weight with head: 34lbs $400 USD, buyer pays shipping located in toronto, canada
  7. for sale: Canon C300 mki (1920x1080) with a lot of accessories a lot of photos and item description here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Gh-fCP6aBY2U5W25R2TnUXIhmR4uUrKM $2500 USD buyer pays for shipping shipment from toronto, canada - google drive link has notes on the package size and weight
  8. i have an old soviet document for OCT mount specs on the very last page are PL-mount specs https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8UCfj_Milp_dGZfMFAxVHFTYXdiZk5ZeDAwSDN5TGtuSTBr/view?usp=sharing these are not official specs either, but soviet attempt at replicating it
  9. page 2 INSTRUCTION for use and development of b&w reversal film stocks OCH-45, OCH-45 type L, OCH-180 spectral light sensitivity of this film is panchromatic you cannot use this film to get a negative keep in mind that for film stock with perforation type "S" you must use film cameras and projectors with Super-8 format keep in mind that because this is a reversal film stock, the dynamic latitude is significantly less than a negative film stock would have. because of this, correct exposure of the film becomes significantly more important light sensitivity of this film gradually decreases over time (up to 30% by the end of best before date). you must account for that in your exposure. to arrive at a correct T-stop use the following film-speed numbers: OCH-45 daylight 45, tungsten 32 OCH-180 daylight 180, tungsten 250 another table for adjusting exposure while using filters ZHS-12 (light-yellow), ZHS-18 (dark-yellow), OS-12 (orange), ZHZS-9 (green-yellow) after exposure you need to develop the film in the shortest time period possible table with steps of developing process/time in minutes/temperature washing of the film at each stage of development (so steps 2, 4, 6, 9, 11) has to be done in running water only flashing the film is done by a tungsten light, 100w, placed 1 metre away from the film RECIPE (to make the developing baths) bunch of chemicals
  10. page 1 before gluing/stitching you must clean the film's emulsion and lacquer layers on the spot where you will be gluing/stiching STORAGE keep the film in cool dry place, away from source of heat, and protect the film form direct sunlight. keep in mind that the film will be negatively impacted if it comes into contact with active gases (ammoniac, acetylene, hydrogen sulfide, etc) GUARANTEE the high quality of this film is guaranteed until the expiry date printed on the package all products produced at this factory are thoroughly checked and pass quality control. if the consumer finds a defect in the film (prior to best before date) you need to do such such and such and contact blah blah. if the defect is confirmed to be due to manufacturing, you will receive replacement product for the same amount addresses of specialized labs that work with consumer film stock: various addresses follow shostkinskoe factory "svema" manufactures and develops b&w film stock in size 16mm and 2x8mm only with normal perforation ***side note: svema stands for SVEtochustvitel'nye MAterialy, or, light-sensistive materials. factory created in 1931 in Shostka, Ukraine*** film that is stitched or has damaged perforation will not be accepted for developing film must be sent for developing in the factory box (in which it was purchased... i assume)....some details and instructions for shipping the cost of film development - 7 kopeks per 1 metre some more instructions for payment and shipping
  11. instead of the band performing live, you can have them perform to a recording then get a sync slate and connect it to your playback device, so the device which is playing the song is the master timecode. the idea is to show the timecode on the slate to the camera. in editing you will know exactly which part of the song is playing this link here describes it quite well https://www.bamfsound.com/how-to-music-video-playback-with-ltc-timecode/
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