andrew parrish

Thanks Adrian, Your advice sound really good to me. I bought the H8 as a gateway to shooting !6mm, and I don't think that I'm going to stay with it forever. I have been shooting Super 8 and video for a few years, and have a few other cameras, so I really dig the concept of having flexable equipment. I am somewhat nervous about buy such a proprietary lens, for a camera i'm not married to. So far I have been using lens hoods and filters from my still photo kit, but I can see the limitations of them.

I just picked up a bolex h8 rex4, and was wondering what people think would be a more useful piece of equipment; the switar 5.5 rx lens or a matte box. the camera came with the kern 8-40ee. I will be shooting mainly for skateboarding, snowboarding, family movies, and surfing. ( I already have the telephoto stuff) T'anks for lookin'

Great use of Super 8, and the content put a smile on my face. I liked the use of colour, the camera work, and how the backgrounds looked in this aspect ratio. Cheers, Ap

[ I hear you on that one Chris. I have not tried the new stocks yet. I am afraid of getting "a taste for caviar". I try to shoot allot of "lifestyle stuff" there is quit a bit that is ending up on the floor. Right now I am running at $23 a cart for color, ($30 BW), processed. Looks to me that Shooting Negative is about twice that, for a bulk package. Plus with reversal, I can edit out the crap before scanning. Is this assumption price in the ball park, or is their a way to shoot these juicy stocks on the cheap?

Andreies/Andy-Do you guys know if you can put a filter stack behind of, or in front of the uwl III? For the past few years I have been using a canon wc dc58. It is designed to fit on my G9, but with a little modification, it fits on any old 58mm threads. I have been told that because it is for still cameras, the curvature of the lens may cause distortion. If it does, it's not been a bother to me. However, with 100d, I am starting to use NDs more, and finding that I am getting harsh vignetting, and it's got no threads up front (the filter would have to be 100mm anyway). I have a rail that I could fab up a Conkin holder on, with a mat box, but that kindda goes in the face of my "keep kit simple, and under the radar" philosophy. I would like to find a soulution that doesn't include 3 sets of filters. Maybe I should get one big set, and add to my collection of step down rings. Cheers, AP

Thanks for another great tip, Andy. By the way, who does the servicing on your special? Thanks again, Ap

Thanks for the Info Andries. I shoot skateboarding, snowboarding and surfing, and I was hoping to find a high quality camera that was adaptable to all three. I would like to get just one camera, that I can really master , and keep the amount of kit I lug to a minimum. I get kind of erked trying to get the coverage I want from the five different cameras I have now, especially when it comes to reliabillty/paying for multiple CLAs. As you pointed out, the skateboard photography often needs very wide angles, and surf, often over 800mm of 35mm focal length. I can get about 500mm with my Canon and adapter. Also, with the changing film stocks, I don't want to spend money on a camera that doesn't have a flexible metering system. If I find that I am asking too much of one tool, I'll have to come up with a new plan. Your Point is taken about the necessity of using the auto exposure. I'll take out my Hv30, lock out the exposure, and do some experimenting. I believe that the godfathers of Surf/Skate flicks, Weaver and Wills, used Beaulieus , So there should be no reason why I can't. In terms of the money,When I started photography, I quickly discovered that the the most expensive part of of getting good at it was not the equipment, but the massive amounts of film you need to shoot. Mistakes are a comin', and they ain't gonna be free.

First prototype failed do to a machining error. number 2 comming up

Hi all, I am thinking about getting a camera with interchangeable lens,( 4008z, Leicnia Special) and I was wondering how fast the reglomatics are at adjusting the exposure on the stock lens? Would they be fast enough to film up close and fast moving things, like Skateboarding with reversal film? What are the weakness and strong points of this type of auto exposure? With practice, can you "run and gun"? Thanks, AP

Sacredieu!! I hope the super8wiki has got it right, when it lists the royal 10c as one of the bauers that works. I think I'll fire off an e-mail. That web sight is cool, by the way. I wish I spoke better french, and didn't have to use the translator. It the translator always seems to add a certain Monty Phython spin to everything. Cheers, AP

Alessandro, thanks again for all your help. I appreciate your patient answers to my noob problems. I think I has just enough info to drive the topics on some pretty wild goose chases. Anyways, I was digging around the forums last night, and I came across something that might add a new layer to this story. Although I couldn't find specific info on my camera, allot of sights stated that bauer cameras do not use a filter notch, and the metering different types of light ( t or d ) is set manually with the filter switch. Because of this, and my erroneous use of the 85a filter, I am guessing that the under exposure at 18fps and 24fps were caused by the camera "thinking" it was eating up 160asa instead of 100asa. (2/3 of a stop under?). Is it possible that the exposure difference at 54fps was cause by this basic exposure mistake, made worst by three times as much speed? (I'm working, so I haven't had time to experiment with the telephoto yet!) Thanks again, AP

Thanks for the quick response. The view through the viewfinder was not bad, although the internal 85a filter was a mistake, and not an artistic choice. I was shooting skateboarding, over new white concrete, and even with the 85a in place it was reading over f22. It think the polarizer brought it down to to f16, if I remember correctly. When I set the camera to 54fps, and point it at a gray card, the meter reads f8 at 24fps,"..........................."f11 and 1/3rd of the way to f16 (f12.6?) at 18fps............................."f11 and 2/3rds of the way to f16 (f14.2?) I think that the shutter angle is 150 degrees, therefor 18fps=1/40, 24 fps=1/60, and 54fps=1/130. By cranking these numbers into my dslr, it looks like fps 18 and 24 are about 1/3 of a stop under. Can anybody else weigh in? does this sound like a camera lube issue ($150), or something that is going to take parts? ($150, then still junk) Thanks, AP

Thanks for the quick response. The view through the viewfinder was not bad, although the internal 85a filter was a mistake, and not an artistic choice. I was shooting skateboarding, over new white concrete, and even with the 85a in place it was reading over f22. It think the polarizer brought it down to to f16, if I remember correctly. When I set the camera to 54fps, and point it at a gray card, the meter reads f8 at 24fps,"..........................."f11 and 1/3rd of the way to f16 (f12.6?) at 18fps............................."f11 and 2/3rds of the way to f16 (f14.2?) I think that the shutter angle is 150 degrees, therefor 18fps=1/40, 24 fps=1/60, and 54fps=1/130. By cranking these numbers into my dslr, it looks like fps 18 and 24 are about 1/3 of a stop over. Can anybody else weigh in? does this sound like a camera lube issue ($150), or something that is going to take parts? ($150, then still junk) Thanks, AP

Hi all, I just got back test 4 carts of 100d, that I shot with a royal c10. I think that I am having a couple of problems that I've never had before. The first is that on the day of the shoot, I noticed that the the little oscillating lever in the view finder, that indicates when you are filling, was moving at an erratic speed. When I got the film back, the exposure was also erratic. It would go from normal exposure to being under exposed in a short rhythmic periods. It was only on one cart of 4. The camera runs smoothly at 18fps empty. Based upon what I have read, I thought that this might be a problem with the one cart. The next problem might be more serious. The day of the shooting was too bright, so I stopped the camera down with a circular polarizer ( no NDs). Also, I made a mistake, and left the 85a filter on. I was shooting at 18fps, and using the instant slow motion (54fps) were appropriate. When I got the film back, I could see another problem with the exposure. The footage at 18fps looks under exposed, and the stuff at 54fps looks dead on. I have never used the instant 54fps button before, so I am not sure if the camera has been doing this the whole time. I had been writing off the underexposure to that " over expose 64t by 2/3rds of a stop" thing. Any ideas?

Hi Folks, I picked up a Keystone Mayfair M 55, basically for the two lens that it came with. The Camera itself is in very good shape, but uses the old Kodak 16mm Cartridge system. Is it possible to reload the old carts? I found a website that showed the film path, and it looked like it would be very hard to do, especially in the dark! Thanks Andrew

Hi Janek Thanks for the quick and very helpful reply. As part of the kit of lens, there was a vivitar teleconverter. I dismantled this morning, and started to mess around. It looks like it is going to work fine. The plan is to machine a "R&D" C-mount plate that is a little on the thin side for testing purposes. Then with the optics in place, and focus set to infinity, I'll start shimming the lens until perfect focus is achieved. At this point we will use a feeler gauge to measure the distance, and then machine the final plate. Sound good? Cheers, Andrew

Hi All I have been given a nice set of Hexanon Prims (Konica AR). They are clean and clear, and have a very good reputation. I was looking online for C mount adapters for them, but could not find any. Has any one seen an adapter like this? The closest I found was Konica Ar to Micro 4/3. The Hexanons have a flange of about 40.4, which, If I'm not mistaken, would make and adapter to C-mount possible, as its flange is less, at around 17.5. If an adapter does not exist, I have access to a machinist, and could have one fabbed up. If I am not too worried about doing any focus pulling, and just want it to focus to infinity, how accurate must the adapter be? If it was less than the approximately 22mm flange difference, would it work? Thanks

Thanks for the replies Roger and Saul. The link to the Baumgarnder article was very helpful, as were your coments. With the right terms, and your help,I think I have a much better understanding. Thanks, Andrew

Sorry if this is a redundant question. I could not find a thread with the search engine. I am thinking about moving out of the hobby type super camera, into some thing that has some more features, like inter-changeable lens. However, popular opinion ( I could be wrong) seems to be that using non 8mm lens, like 16mm and 35mm lens, is really going to compromise the image quality. I have read that the lens can be adjusted ( re-culminated?) to work better. Is this true? and if it is, what does it cost, and who does it best? Thanks for your Time ( patience)

Hi Oliver, What do you think would be a good choice for surf stuff. I think The Beaulieus get allot of play with the surf crowd because of the frame rates and the interchangable lenses. Would you look at the Leicina specials or the nalcom , or would you get into something more conventional, like a 1014xls with telly adaptor lens? thanks, AP

I have an hv30, and a some Nikon lens (including a 50m 1.4). I was wondering what would be better- get a good dof adaptor and rails, or just get a like priced dslr? I was thinking around $1k. I film mostly MOS, and would be using the equipment for outdoor mood shots in snowboarding, surfing and sailing projects, and maybe telephoto work. I shoot super 8, so the manual focus thing ain't so big a problem for me. (I did have a problem with Nikon, however. My D70 was a reliablity disaster, a shook my confidence in nikon. This fact is a big reason why I am having trouble with this question)) Thanks

Is it posible that Kodak has not anouced the death of 64t because they are going to create a new colour reversal film out of some of thier remaining slide films? Just a guess here, but I think that 64t is probabley their best selling super 8 stock based on it being a reversal. If they axe it and don't replace it, a good portion of the super 8 market will dry up as people just give it up as too expensive. As user volumes go down, busness expences go up, and more super 8 service providers will start withdraw. on the plus side, however, the super8 film buyers have aparently been very loyal over the years to keep the art form alive. I think that if Kodak does have a slide film suitable for conversion, they would boslter it's sales, and keep the viabilty of it's super 8 production line by doing so.

Is it posible that Kodak has not anouced the death of 64t because they are going to create a new colour reversal film out of some of thier remaining slide films? Just a guess here, but I think that 64t is probabley their best selling super 8 stock based on it being a reversal. If they axe it and don't replace it, a good portion of the super 8 market will dry up as people just give it up as too expensive. As user volumes go down, busness expences go up, and more super 8 service providers will start withdraw. on the plus side, however, the super8 film buyers have aparently been very loyal over the years to keep the art form alive. I think that if Kodak does have a slide film suitable for conversion, they would boslter it's sales, and keep the viabilty of it's super 8 production line by doing so.

The 814 az has a sliding device for measuring the cart notch. In theory, it will correctly expose any film that is in a correctly noched cart, and with in it's range. The super 8 wiki states that it will read the following: * Tungsten type film: ISO 25, 32, 40, 50, 64, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200 and 250 * Daylight type film: ISO 16, 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 64, 80, 100, 125 and 160 I don't know if custom loaded carts are properly notched. Hope this helps

Has anybody used Spectra film and video's modification to do away with lightmeter batteries? I have been thinking about doing it to my 814az , and just noticed that it is on sale for around $100. Is it worth doing? Thanks