Jamie Frazer Noakes

Yes you can either use teh EE lock button or diall in the exposure manually. Ektachrome 100D is a dalylight balanced film - the 'D' stand for daylight - the built in 'sun' filter on all super 8 cameras is designed to convert the colour temp for Tungsten balanced films in daylight - for example Vision3 200T ( the 'T' stands for 'Tungsten' - artificial light) you would need the filter to get the right colour balance when shooting in daylight. But you dont need any filter for tungsten balanced film when shooting under artificial light! Ektachrome 100D is already balanced for daylight so NO FILTER is needed - with the Elmo 1012s-xl you need to manually disengage the filter. This is inportant - both for colour balance and for the correct exposure setting! Here is a test roll of 100D I did with my Elmo 1012s-xl to check it was working - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmmTss5m62o I have shot loads with it since , but nothing else uploaded yet. Please also see this mini western shot with the shorter lensed brother to the 1012s-xl - the 612s-xl and with Ektachrome 100D! Hope this helps.

Hi! Shoot some 100D in good light - for example close ups and medium shots and you will be blown away at the resolving power of the lens! This is what is best with this camera! It is also a pretty darn good low light camera with it's f1,2 lens and XL shutter. For test shots I would actually shoot people and places if that is what your film is about. Lock the exposures on your shots as the auto is very sensitive on contrasting light sources. What is your short film about? will you need macro and synch etc? To expose your 100D correctly please makes sure you have the filter settig on 'lamp' For exposing the Tri-X you'll need to have it on the 'sun' setting - or notch hack the cart and shoot on 'lamp' otherwise the camera will expose it as 100 ISO and overexpose by 1 full stop - not good for Tri-X! You can shoot your Vision3 200T 2 ways - with the 'sun' filter in and exposed at 160 ISO or with it out ('lamp') and a good colour conversion filter screwed on the lens for daylight shots and just on 'lamp' and without a screwed on filter for shooting under artificial light. Hope this helps! Jamie

I shoot super 8 because it has soul. Digital is souless. To hell with practicalities.

Hi - you need a 62mm for your Bauer.

The Bauer s709xl has a good crisp lens and has great low light capabilities with it's max f1,2 aperture and 200 degree eXsiting Light shutter. You can shoot Vision3 200T with this camera both indoors and outdoors on full auto exposure and get great results. You can also shoot Vision3 500T but you have to dial in the exposures manually - the camera has a max ASA/ISO sensitivity of 160ASA tungsten - so 500T will be overexposed by this camera by just over 2 full F stops. So if you are shooting ion really low light situations you can hold the iris wide open at f1,2 and get great results. You can do the same with your two Nizos - however they are crap in low light. I recommend shooting Vision3 200T with your Bauer outdoors using a screw on 85b or KR-12 filter and disengage the internal filter. You will get better results. Hope this helps. J.

Hi - it will work fine - I have shot Plus-X (also 100D and indentical notched to Ektachrome 100D) with this camera and just switched out the filter anyway. Perfect exposure.

Looks like an excellent service to me - you captured excellent details and gleaned some high resolution from the k40 you shot with your Big lensed Bauer! 64T looked absolutely horrible with a Bauer s715xl! Keep up the good work! Jamie

Hi, I would do as you suggested yourself - use the internal autiomatic exposure system as a spot meter and then base your manual exposure on that reading. It is often best to work with the camera based automatic exposure system as it is calibrated to the camera and takes into account light lost through the lens for the viewfinder etc. Your camera should be fine with 100D - I think it will automatically disengage the 85 filter - but just to be sure click down the filter siwtch to the bulb setting. I can't answer your question about ND filter requirments as I've not used any of the new stock from Kodak myself yet. But from what I've heard watch out for bright highlights which could end up blown out. BTW - you could answer the comment I posted on your youtube clip 4 months ago! Jamie

Hi- you asked Am I sure abouyt that? - Yes! - I'd say My Plus-X footage was correctly exposed - I've shot lots of Plus-X with different cameras so I'd see if the exposure was out - all I did was remove the filter to shoot. But the Elmo has the filter notch detecting pin anyway. I'm not knocking you Jim, I love your tech expertise, but sometimes you have to shoot an actual test to see for yourself if it will work or not. Wether it was a fluke or not - I don't know - but the Plus-X was exposed correctly - if it had been read as 160t then it would have been underexposed by 2/3rds of a stop and Plus-X is not that forgiving and would have looked underexposed. Sorry about the link - here is Phils test of the new Kodak supplied 100d super 8 cart and not one of his! http://www.vimeo.com/11362670

Hi - this is incorrect - The 612sxl and 1012sxl will read Plus-X correctly - just move the filter switch to tungsten - here is a test I made with Plus-X and my 612sxl : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyGx4cZEmkE Please also see a test Phil from Pro8 did with the new Kodak 100d stock and a Elmo 612sxl: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyGx4cZEmkE It is a little blown out with the whites - but I would say correctly exposed - so if the stock is notched the same as Plus-X - 100D the Elmo 612sxl and 1012sxl will read and expose correctly if you make sure the tungsten filter is disengaged. I cannot say that the 350sl will work the same way - you will just have to test. Hope this helps.

Hi - I fully recommend using a screw on 85b or as I use a B+W KR-12 Filter. The reason for this is that the inbuilt colour conversion filter on the camera is made of plastic and becomes pitted over time. A high quality glass filter screwed on the lens will improve resolution and colour. I also recommend using the automatic light meter as it is calibrated to the light lost through all those lens elements in that 10x Canon zoom lens. You can use the auto exposure like a 'spot meter' zoom in on your important scene take the reading - use the 'AE Lock' and zoom out - I do this for faces and back light scenes - works well. Please see my video clip below - Vision2 200T shot with a Canon 1014xl-s and B+W KR-12 filter screwed on the lens. Hope this helps - best regards, Jamie