bureaucrazy

Has anyone tried getting their super 8 digitised on the Muller HM73? There is a website www.18-frames.com offering the service but I haven't tried it yet. Are they legit? The samples look amazing. Let me know your experience. Is there anywhere else I could try if I want the best results possible in HD? Thanks

Is there anywhere to see samples full screen? Is it better than the Muller HM73? All the samples of the muller seem to look a bit blueish to me but the detail and sharpness look amazing like seeing real life.

Hi Christian, If they agree to do a hand inspection that's fantastic but some airports will refuse and insist on x-raying it. NEVER put your film into checked in baggage as the X-ray machines are much more powerful than the hand luggage machines. Modern x ray machines have auto exposure so they increase the power depending on the density of what they are looking at. For that reason, you are best off putting the film into a separate tray on the xray conveyor so that the minimum power is used to x-ray the film. I always lay the rolls flat with the sprocket holes at the top side so that most of the xray is hitting the sprocket edge of the film rather than the surface. I have had rolls x-rayed multiple times including 500T film and could not see any fogging or problems, so don't worry too much. One airport x-rayed a camera containing film 6 times because they had never seen one before and becuase they realised they weren't paying attention to the screen so put it through again - nightmare! It's not been processed yet so I'll have to see if it's ruined, but one or two doses should be fine.

I just checked again and it doesn't move when loaded, so I have answered my own question, which is that the red bulb makes no difference to exposure of daylight carts. Sorry. I still feel confused about how this is working so, maybe someone could explain?

just to add, I notice that when I put the red screw in, with the E100D cartride loaded, when I look through the viewfinder, the light meter needle moves to a smaller appeture than when it's not in.

Hi, i want to use E100D in my canon 814AutoZoomElectronic. I want to shoot in daylight. Inside the camera near the bottom there is a pin which gets pressed in by the E100D cartridge that disengages the 85 filter. Also, on top of the camera is a pin which disengages the filter when you screw in a red screw with a bulb on it. However, I'm confused as to whether I need to screw this red thing in or not. The reason being that the red screw was originally intended so that Kodachrome 40T could be used with tungsten lights without the filter but that the auto exposure would reduce the appeture to compensate for no filter being there when the red screw is in. With E100D, putting the red screw in reduces the appeture also, but I dont understand whether this will give the correct exposure or if I should leave it out. What is the film speed on this camera with an E100D cartride in with the screw and without it? I want it to be at ASA100. Thanks

Hi, I need to buy a computer for video editing and need to decide which software to go for. I shoot mainly super 8mm and if I don't perfectly expose it there's a need to lighten/darken and adjust the colours. I do not have experience of NLE software personally. Could anyone here advise me of the colour correction tools available for CS5 and what tools are available for vegas. Will vegas do everything I need? or does CS5 have features that are not available in vegas that I may be likely to use? A list of the features would be very helpful so I can decide which route to take. Thanks

It is very easy to make your own remote control. You just need a double wire, e.g. cheap speaker cable, a push switch and a jack plug. Solder one end of one wire to the tip of the jack and the other end to the first contact on the switch and then solder the ends of the other wire to the ring of the jack and the other switch terminal. Push the switch and it will operate the shutter.

I just want to make sure my understanding is correct regarding the auto exposure settings and the internal filter when using vision 500T on the canon 814autozoom electronic. For vision 500T My understanding is as follows: The 500T cartridge presses in the daylight pin inside the camera by default so there is no filter engaged and the exposure is at 250ASA. If I cut a notch in the cartridge so that the pin is not pushed in, the filter will then be engaged so that the film will have the right colour in daylight and the meter will be at 400ASA. If I then screw in the red thing with the light bulb on it on the top, then the filter will be disengaged but the camera will still meter at 400ASA? For Ektachrome 100D Again as a daylight cartridge no filter will be engaged. If I screw in the red bulb, will it affect the metering at all? What I'm trying to clarify is that I believe the internal daylight pin changes the exposure as well as engaging/disengaging the filter but the red screw on top just overrides the filter and the exposure setting of the internal pin stays the same. I did read the other threads but still not sure Thanks

I mainly want to do pal but might want an ntsc version made for folks in the usa. what about the idea of slowing down the bits shot at 18fps in the editing software? How does it work? does it simply repeat frames every so often to make it up to 25fps? Are more sophisticated programs available that render interpolated inbetween frames by using vector math and transposing moving parts of the image? could you recommend software?

i wish to film on super8 and play on tv. most of what i shot before at 18fps looked smooth enough but panning looked very jerky. the film was telecined cheap on a modified projector. Is it worth shooting at 24? i'd have to pay a pro lab to telecine it and i would waste film time. perhaps i could film the slow scenes at 18 and the pan shots at 24 and then get it all telecined at 24 by discrete frame scanning. Could i then slow down the scenes shot at 18 in software without losing any quality? Is 24 really much of an improvement? this is my last chance to try kodachrome and i want it to be as good as possible. thanks

Found it! I spelled quarz wrong! here it is for reference http://www.erkanumut.com/?s=rus 12fps 1/23, 16fps 1/32, 24fps 1/46, 32fps 1/60, 48fps 1/92 single frame 1/20

Help, I have a russian quartz 5 standard 8 mm camera with a dead light meter. I need to know the shutter speeds that correspond with the following frame rates: single frame, 12fps, 16fps, 24fps, 32fps, 48fps. Most important is the speed of 16fps. I will use a westonIII light meter to set the correct appeture. I once before found a website with a table showing these values but can't find it now. A link to a user manual would also help. Thanks