Maurizio Di Cintio

Hello: 1) the button should slide freely from "R" to "RL" positions. If it doesn't, there is a problem. Anyway the only difference from the two positions, is that in "R" you have to keep the shutter release button pressed for the duration of your shot, in "RL" (run lock), you push it at the start of the shot and press it again to stop. 2) right 3) Camera on sturdy tripod: film a wall with visible bricks slowly zooming in and out a few times. This way it's easy to assess how steady the camera is. To check the built-in lightmeter, frame a newspaper page (preferably with no pictures) and film it for a few seconds (5-10) then change (ovveride) the aperture ( both + and -) at 1/3 of stops (you can also use the dial you mention for the purpose). To check focusing accuracy, again camera on tripod and frame a distant subject at least 20 meters away; lens barrel on infinity, max focal length (66 mm) and aperture as wide as possible: what you film must appear perfectly sharp after the film si returned to you (the lens on this camera is one of the best); keeping filming, perform a zoom out up to 6.6 mm: the film will have to show everything is still in focus. A few more focus tests should be performed at shorter film-plane/subject distances (3-5 meters) better if in scarce lighting conditions, to have as shallow depth of field as possible. In this case focusing should be done as per instructions. This can be avoided if you are planning to shoot with a measuring tape. 4) Vision 50 is a "D" (Daylight) balanced film so it works best outdoors also given its slow speed; built in conversion filter must be removed so set the in/out switch for this function on the bulb symbol (however counter-intuitive this may seem); Vision 200 is a T (Tungsten) balanced film stock so it works better indoor both in existing low light filming conditions and with suitable lamps (rated at 3200 K). You can also use it outdoors in daylight but in this case you will need a conversion filter (and possibly a grey one should there be too much light); you can use the one supplied in the camera (filter switch on the sun symbol) or - better - remove the former and use a screw in filter on the lens barrel (just make sure it's oversized to avoid vignetting at the wide angle end of the lens)

Thanks so much Martin! Your is the information that were actually missing. Next time I send in the camera for CLA to Bjorn, I'll also ask for the viewfinder upgrade. :D

Which I own, thanks God! Anyway based on all the replies herein and some quick exchages of ideas with Bjorn himself, I tend to think this problem is down to some inherent design faults of the camera which, under some not-all-too-defined conditions, may cause vignetting but only in the viewfinder; in fact my experience has shown this will not affect the image on the film at all; and Beauleu knew about this problem since they clearly mentioned it in their instruction booklet.

He is the man I normally grant CLA of my Beaulieu cameras, even in this case. Anyway nothing serious, I was just curious, if someone here knows why this happens (in a private message, Bjorn mentioned this is due to 6008 S viefinder system design which is different from other cameras...). Kindest regards. PS: have you found a substitute for your ex Nikon R 10 :D? Perhaps you remember I was the guy who purchased it... In case, good luck searching.

I totally agree with you Viktor: I took some of the sharpest footage at F1.4 on my Canon 1014 XL-S, at about 25 mm focal length. Probably this camera is the best option in terms of portability, sharpeness and sturdiness. Not as wide angle as the Beaulieu's Optivaron but still very acceptable at 6.6 mm. Go for it!

Thanks Viktor, but I do not think this is the case: this lens has been already collimated for my specific camera body by a profesisonal. I forgot to punctualize it in my first post...

Hi, all. Does anybody know why I get strong vignetting in the eyepiece of my Beaulieu when I use lenses other than the supplied Optivaron 6-70 (I mean just the plain lens - no filters added)? I thought this could only happen with lenses not specifically designed for this camera for example the Angeniuex 10 mm; but recently I have acquired an Angenieux 6-90 for this very camera with a genereous back element diameter and vignetting occurs anyway at apertures of T 2 or smaller. True it is the instruction manual warns about this stating it won't affect the actual filming on the exposed stock (which I found to be 100% true); still I was wondering if somebody can clarify why this happens... Thank you.

Thank you. I'l do like you suggested.

Hi all. I'm in the process to receive a lens for my Beaulieu 6008 and I'd like to know if all C-Mount lenses have to be collimated or, in the case of lenses that are not actually screwed on but are equipped with a ring which "fastens" the lens to the body (llike the standard Schneider or the Angenieux 6-90 with LCU), such a process may be waived; in fact I suspect the different way the lens is attached to the camera makes it impossible to have microscopic variations in the rear element-to film plane distance which usually accounts for the need of collimation. Or, is there a way to assess if a lens actually needs collimation? Possibly by shooting some feet of film? I guess with rather poor light so as to have the iris work at maximum aperture AND the focal length set at the widest. How does it sound?

As long as the manual aperture knob is all the way into the camera and camera is working in auto mode AND you are using the smallest shutter opening angle WITH the selector set to "4", the camera will compensate automatically. If you want to avoid sudden iris aperture changes, you need to lock that knob by pulling it outward. If you ant to set a specific aperture by yourself, you can do that anyway, anytime by rotating that knob AFTER pulling it out. Hope this helps.

Hi. It's an excellent camera with an awesome lens. And built like a tank (except for the manual aperture knob which tends to get somewhat flimsy over the years). But when you work with shutter speeds different from the standard, you don't have to compensate manually with such a knob: all you have to do is setting the small selector (located right, next to the speed dial) to the same number as the shutter control dial: normally it is sets at the red dot (= shutter works at its maximum exposure capability); if you choose to work with half shutter angle, then you select "2" on this small lever; finally you want to choose pos "4" when working with the smallest shutter angle. This way the camera will automatically compensate with bigger iris apertures. Of course you can always switch to manual Iris operation as well like "AE Lock" etc. Have fun!

Hi there! Are these Century Optics CS adapters still manufatcured? If not, where can I buy one? Thanx

Hey I attempted adjusting the trimmer described in the page linked above but on my camera, it doesn't work; the relevant trimmer instead is the next one (second from left). Anyway the whole description provided me with a good starting point and now my "715" works perfectly with the Ekta 100D. Thank you again. Maurizio

Thank you soooooo much indeed!!! It gives even more info than I need. Perfect! Take care and good shooting. Maurizio

I'd like to shoot my next film on Ektachrome 100D using my Bauer 715 XLS. Unfortunately this camera only accepts 40 and 160 ASA (CC Filter off), therefore when using the new 100 D you have to manually override the automatic exposure about two thirds of a stop more open than indicated; this is a bit annoying so I'd like the camera to evaluate the correct aperture fully automatically. To do this I need to locate the precise trimming pot on the main board inside the camera. It's not a problem for me to open it, to set up a proper way to figure out the required compensation BUT I have to know which trimmer does what. Since there are several ones, in order to avoid messing something, I'd like someone to tell/show me which is the relevant trimmer. Thank you.