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James Honeycutt

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About James Honeycutt

  • Birthday 04/29/1950

Profile Information

  • Occupation
  • Location
    Salem, Oregon, USA
  • My Gear
    Auricon, Canon Super8, and others
  • Specialties
    I am the moderator of the Auricon Optical Sound Users Group. We are interested in restoring and using old optical sound equipment, Auricon branded or not. Our group has been around since March 2007. We have about 200 members from all over the world.

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  1. Greetings.... The original Auricon optical Sound Users Group was stated over 10 years ago using yahoo groups. As you may have heard, Yahoo groups, for the most part, going away. While most of our discussions, files and photos are still heavily weighted towards Auricon optical sound, we have, over the years, discussed any other older optical sound formats. We collect documents and other data on all aspects of optical sound. We help in the repair of older optical sound cameras and amplifiers. We also maintain the Auricon Optical Sound Wiki. We ask for no money. We are a group that shares information. If you are into sharing information or would like help in making that older camera or amplifier work again, you are welcome. Super8, 16mm, and 35 mm formats are all areas of discussion. Polite conversation only please. To visit our web page, you can find us here at our new home in GroupI/O: https://groups.io/g/AuriconOpticalSound You can subscribe by sending email to: AuriconOpticalSound+subscribe@groups.io jack honeycutt, moderator mraroid@gmail.com
  2. Hello.... I shot mostly film and little digital. I also shoot 3D. I use a Bolex 3D film camera and shoot 3D but I have also bought a Sony 3D digital camera to shoot 3D. I work under Windows. The software I use now is Sony movie studio platinum 13 and Sony Vegas Pro 12. Pro 12 will let me import, edit and burn in 2K. I and many of my friends have moved to the newer Ultra 4K Blu-ray players and I have a LG OLED Ultra 4K TV. I like the fact that I can stream You Tube videos in 4K. I have been having my 16mm motion picture film scanned in at 4K or 5K. I would like the ability to edit and burn in 4K. By burn, I want 4K Ultra​ blu-ray authoring software. I do not mind if I need to buy one program to edit and export 4K content to another program to author a blu-ray. Or it can be the same program. I am looking for suggestions. I am very pleased with Sony Vegas Pro 12 and do not know if a upgrade to that would be a good idea or maybe switch to other software. I am looking for suggestions. Help Appreciated. Is this the correct form to post this question? Or many another place altograther to go to ask my question? Thanks you, mraroid
  3. Hello... I have a cart of the new Super8 Ektachrome 7294 (100 ASA). I would like to shoot some film at night of the christmas lights in the yards and houses on my block. I have never tried to shot film in the dark before and I am looking for any tips you can give me. My camera is a Canon 1014 XL-S. The shutter in my camera has a variable opening angle. Usually it is set to 150 degrees. But I can change it to 220 degrees for filming in dim light. I have not used this shutter setting before but I thought I would try. I can set the camera to 9 fps, 18 fps and 24 fps. The manual says that if the fps is set to 18, the shutter speed is about 1/40th of a second. If I change the shutter angle to 220, then the shutter speed would be at about 1/30th of a second. I am unsure what fps to use. I normally shot everything at 24 fps. I also have a exposure dial on this camera. I can increase or decrease the exposure setting by one F stop. I am guessing I need to increase the exposure setting by one F stop. (?) I worry that the depth of field will be so greatly reduced that the christmas yard displays would be in focus but not with the lights in the background on the houses. I know to pan slowly. Can someone of you give me a few suggestions on how to shoot christmas lights in the dark? I am completely new to this kind of filming. Thanks in advance. mraroid Oregon, US
  4. Folks.... Deep in my frig I found a Super8 cart of Ektachrome 7240. I bought it new, and kept it in the frig. I just shot it off. Calling around, it seems that the usual places no longer process VNF-1. Serveral labs said they could process it as E-6, but the colors would come out magenta. Depending on how much color is left in this old film, even a scan to digital and color correcting may not bring it back I was told. Any chance that a lab some place outside of the US would still develop using VNF-1? Thanks in advance, jack
  5. Hi... I am looking for some 35mm, 100ft, metal, daylight spools. I am not interested in plastic microfiche reels/spools. I want the metal kind. They look like 100 ft 16mm daylight spools. I need ten of then. If you have any for sale, please let me know. Thanks jack mailto:mraroid@gmail.com
  6. Gentleman... Thank you both for all the good information. I have found that the color I shot does not show what I am calling grain. I do have a high end HD color TV. I could transfer the film to Blu-ray and view it on the TV to see if it still looks grainy. Good idea. Dave, I did not have my film transferred at any of the transfer houses on your list. I just received a quote from Scanity for $600 for 400 feet. A bit on the high side for me. I am sending email to Spirit and see what they may charge me. I wish my HD TV wold let me stream from my USB 3.0 hard drive directly to the screen. I will update my progress here. Thank you Dirk and Dave for the many tips. I will start looking into it. many thanks, jack
  7. Hi... I shot some 16mm Tri-X and had it processed and then transferred to digital. The format I selected is the same I have used in the past for HD transfers. It is called 1080p Apple Pro Res 422 HQ. When I project my film, the parts that were exposed correctly look about as good as anyone would want. Sharp, clear, nice balcks, whites, and grays. I am very happy with it. However, my digital transfer is very grainy. It is grainy enough to be annoying. The transfer does not appear to be overly cropped. About the same time this happened, I sent another lab some B&W shot in 1955 and had it transferred in SD. I could not see any grain at all and it looked really sharp to my eyes. Am I being to picky, or should I have it transferred again and pay for a colorist? Or is something else going on here? Any advice appreciated. Thanks jack Portland Oregon
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