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Greg Boris

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Everything posted by Greg Boris

  1. I know this is a worn out subject. I was also fully aware that I could wait up to two months to receive it. I purchased a pouch from Modular 51 about 3 months ago. I have sent them several emails without response and now when I go to their website... it doesn't work. I'm guessing they don't exist anymore and I should withdraw my payment from paypal. Do any of you know any different? or know different contact info than what was listed on their website?
  2. Thank you but 1" will not work. Even with the thickness of a baseplate a 1" could pass through the wood, especially when drilling through 3/4ply, scags, and cribbing.
  3. I'm pretty sure I'm using 3/4 course thread drywall screws for drilling baseplates into pancakes but I can't seem to find any around town. The standard Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, etc don't have anything shorter than 1" in coarse thread and I am even having a hard time finding anything less than a 3000pc box online. Any ideas?
  4. Full frame is larger than 35mm motion picture stock. 35mm is roughly equivalent to aps-c sensors (7d, 4k red, alexa). The 18mm on a full frame is about 29mm.
  5. This isn't a rant about how certain movies may (or may not) have gotten shafted. It isn't about politics or if your favorite movie/director/etcetc should or shouldn't have been awarded. Anyway, the last three out of four years the Academy Award for Cinematography has gone to films that not only rely on heavy amounts of visual effect supplementation but actually received Oscars for VFX. I in no way wish to belittle the immense talent and dedication that these cinematographers have or downplay their skill or involvement in these projects (the live action elements still being very important) but I do wish to pose a question. I have many friends who watch the awards with no real knowledge of film history or the industry. They hear that these are the films with the best cinematography and accept it; without any further knowledge why shouldn't they? It seems often that the most "grand" spectacle or image is labeled as the best, regardless of whether or not there are actual photographic elements the cinematographer had control over. Do you agree with the Academy's representation of cinematography?
  6. You can light it however you like, that's where the artistry of being a cinematographer comes in. Before you start asking "how am I going to light this?" you should be wondering, "what am I trying to achieve?" What reason do you have to light? Is it a long scene that needs to maintain continuity? Is there supposed to be light coming from the door? Do you want it to look natural? Maybe you don't even need to light it? People have shot with natural light for decades. If you need a little more guidance it would be helpful to explain what you want, the story or scene and, you know, the time of day...
  7. This is a nice tidbit of information to know. Thank you. I would also like to give another "super thank you" to Guy for taking the time to compile and explain all that information. Everyone has been very helpful and I truly appreciate it!
  8. Guy Holt, thank you very much for your time and explanation. It's comforting finding people who so willingly give up this information... and in such a comprehensive manner. I reread your post a few times to make sure I understood the basics/math behind it for future reference and have a few more questions regarding the application of all the information you gave me. By the way, thank you... again. 1. I'm assuming the 2290VA figure isn't applicable for the 575. In trying to understand the power factor more universally beyond the 1200 lamp I tried to figure out how the figure 2290VA came from the power factor of (cos .6). What is the formula for applying the power factor to the lamp? I didn't know the equation to start with so I basically played around until I got a close figure. I did... (cos(.6)) x 1200 + 1200 = 2190.4VA assuming this is right (probably isn't) the 575 would be... (cos(.6)) x 575 + 575 = 1049.57VA 2. Once the power factor of the ballast has been calculated I can move toward figuring out the actual voltage reaching the ballast. I had assumed it was at 120v, but you brought up line loss which I had forgotten about. Would a simple voltage reading at the end of my cable run reveal the dip? Would the "increased resistance that results from the heat" of using standard stingers show up in the voltage reading? Or is there a rough number I can use for the voltage drop from overheated plugs? Thank you, Greg Boris
  9. Rad. That's a definite start.
  10. Hello all, Been lurkin for a while and haven't had a real reason to post yet, but here it is. The situation I was gaffing a short tonight at a very old city apartment. We were outside and had a character climbing through a window. Coincidentally that window was the only place we could run power from so it was going to take a fair bit of time to properly hide the stinger coming out. I was using a 575 and 1200. I knew that the paper amps would clearly be over 15amps, but when doin the math it came out just under 15 (with very very little wiggle room). While not really keen on splitting the stinger and running them both off the same wire we were trying to save the time of hiding another stinger. I had also done this before out of necessity (lack of accessible power in a different practical location) with tungsten heads. The lights were working for 15mins before the breaker tripped. There were alot of people going in and out of the kitchen (where it was plugged in) so I wasn't sure if something else had been turned on/plugged in. I also figured that if the HMIs were to pop the circuit it would have been closer to when we sparked them up and not after a period of time. Being ready to shoot, we flipped the breaker back on and tried to get the shot off but about 3 minutes later they tripped again. Accepting that it was a dumb idea (and potentially bad for the lights/safety) we took the time to run another stinger and hide it. Next time I won't even bother trying to push it. The Questions That being said I would like some clarification on some things for the future. 1. Assuming I had total control over a circuit and knew that there was nothing else on it, is it ever ok (while not prime) to push the power so close to the limit? I don't want to be unsafe or damage equipment. Should I always just use paper amps to give myself a threshold? 2. I mentioned I "figured that if the HMIs were to pop the circuit it would have been closer to when we sparked them up". Is this true? 3. I found it odd that it took 15 minutes for the circuit to trip the first time. Does the power usage of HMIs fluctuate even when fully warmed up that they could have "drawn more" at a particular instance? Adding to that... hypothetically if they were tungsten heads would I have been less prone to tripping? 4. Do any of these older apartments have circuits that wouldn't be a full 15amps and/or just not be able to support such a load for an extended amount of time (old wiring etc etc)? When we ran the second stinger we didn't really search out the circuit to make sure that there wasn't anything else on/plugged in as I wasn't worried once we split the load so I am not positive that it wasn't something else that tripped it. As it was so close to 15amps, it could have been anything. After tripping it, I knew we were overloading the circuit but not being able to specifically point to the cause made realize I had a few other questions that I should know for the future. I'm still learning so any facts/tips about power/HMIs/safety are appreciated. Thank you for your time, Greg
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