Luigi Castellitto

Quote, this week I do the same thing, I send film to Andec to have the positive print in polyester.

I think I found something in Europe. In your opinion what is a fair price for the printing of a Vision 3 500t?

I'm sorry because I am a K3 user too, with which I work very well. You try asking at http://www.k3camera.com, they gave me some really useful information about K3.

In my opinion there isn't also appropriate for experiments, this is only speculation that is not good for our world. I can understand 30,40 EUR, but not 89! About the print Vision3: any of you use the positive print for edit the film? Or all use the negative?

Who knows if this model, with this type of thread, is compatible with Beaulieu 4008 ZM II (for single shot and contiunuos shot)? http://www.ebay.it/itm/Mechanical-Locking-Camera-Shutter-Release-Remote-Control-Cable-Cord-/162098520346?hash=item25bdd3211a:g:aC4AAOSwQupXWUzZ Thank you.

Thanks guys, great advice. Cine Lab has very good prices, but it is true that it is far from me, there is also the possibility of the customs fee and the price is even more would raise. Simon, you're closer, I sent you a pm.

You know someone who does good, BUT CHEAP, projection prints from 16mm negatives as Vision3 500T, 250D, etc.? I mean without editing, without application of sound tracks and sound and without no A-B mode, it's not a problem if the splices are visible. Thank you!

Thank you, Martin, I'd like to try a Kodachrome (well preserved and not too old, some of them, on ebay, always find), for of the characteristics that you mention. Of film who say the Fomapan R100 has already a little tendency to yellowish, but, of course, we are talking about a tendency type of black and white, not a real sepia. I'd like to have a real sepia tone. Does nothing if it carries a bit 'of signs of the expiration time, if it is less contrasted; are experiments are , i don't seek maximum yeld.

Martin, you know what emulsions are suitable for Sepia tone in reversal process, in addition to two of Alexander? In Super 8, but also in Double 8 and 16mm. I've never tried it and I'd like, maybe trying to look for one old K40, expired from not too long.

I had taken a good release cable, not original but compatible, brand Gitzo, but after repeated use it literally broken in my hand! So: what is a good cable release compatible with Beaulieu 4008 ZM II? What features should it get? Someone know good and compatible model on the web? I can use those I have for Bolex H8 or for Krasnogorsk 3, in order to save money? :) Even if they don't have the comfortable curved, no problem. Thank you! @ Jean-Louis: we are far away, but if I not find one good or the ones thate I have are not compatible I can also make the intercontinental shipping charges.

Only for cultural info, sorry for pedantry, Dom and all :) : you talk about "exposed" gear, but in this model of Angénieux the gear for zoom does not install with a component that "ties" on the lens? And iris with a ring that is installed with screws? Maybe I'm wrong and they are different models. With component installed: Without component:

You're right, Dom, the Schenider is superior, it's true. My is only a curiosity, because, I bought one like this (http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Objectif-Angenieux-zoom-type-8x8B-f-8-64mm-1-1-9-/141707020771) for my Pathè Webo DS8 BTL, and I thought it might be good to "alternate" it also on Beaulieu, with Schneider. Only with the idea that the spending for lens would take me even another use. But, in the end, is best to keep it just on Pathè. Thank you.

Thank you, Dom! And what you think about question 3)? Now, on my Beaulieu 4008 ZM2 I have Schneider Kreuznach Optivaron 1,8/6-66 mm with two motors for iris and for zoom. If I want use on my Beaulieu the Angenieux lens of second link what motors should I use? If I let mounted the motor already mounted on Angenieux, I would have only command to the iris, while, if I unscrew from the Schneider the two motors and I mounted them on Angeniuex, I would have two motors, for Irises and zoom? It's correct?

Thank you! :) And, in your opinion, the lens of the second link works on a camera model (Pathè Webo BTL DS8) like that in the first link? Obviously, with disassembling the iris motor. Note that the camera of the first link should have an EQUAL (maybe!) model of lens, without any motors.

Other help, please help me! :) http://www.ebay.ca/itm/172366235090?rmvSB=true http://www.ebay.it/itm/Beaulieu-Angenieux-Zoom-8-64mm-1-9-Objektiv-fur-ZM-4008-/311728576173?hash=item48947896ad 1) It's always the same model? When you say "Angenieux Type 8x8 B 8-64mm/1.9" is always ONE TYPE of model, which is mounted indifferently on a Beaulieu 4008 ZM2 or mounted on Pathè Webo BTL DS8? 2) If I wanted to use the same lens (one in the the second link) on my Pathè Webo BTL DS8 I should remove the entire motor? It's correct? Under the motor there should be a ring with "teeth"? 3) I already have a Beaulieu 4008 ZM2, but with Schneider Kreuznach Optivaron 1,8/6-66 mm and motors for iris and for zoom. If I want use on my Beaulieu the Angenieux lens of second link, I should use the motor that is already on the lens or one (with two motors) that I have on Schneider Kreuznach? ...BUT why these lens (on more ad) are branded "for Beaulieu 4008 ZM2" if it have the motor only on iris? It is not the Beaulieu 2008 that have it only on iris?

I'm sure that the experts know the answer, it's a simple question. It's normal that in an old Angenieux lens — in my case is a type 8x8 B 8-64mm/1.9 — the small screw that lock the plastic ring where are written the numbers of zoom (it's only one screw, the rest of the parallel holes are for the zoom stick) also "control" the "smooth" of the zoom? So: screwed tighter, harder zoom movement (up to block it, amost), screwed looser, softer zoom movement. Thank you! :)

Does anyone know the differences between these two Pathè Webo DS8 BTL? https://assets.catawiki.nl/assets/2016/2/20/9/5/9/959ef714-d7ec-11e5-9184-f65dc3c50bb5.jpg http://www.cameramuseum.nl/images/9032%20CM%20web.jpg I am going to have the second. Does anyone have the manual or know where I can find it? Can anyone tell me what kind of battery have the light meter and if there is a model currently a usable (zync-air?)? Thank you.

Ok, perfect, thank you, Michael! Yes, I buy Moviscop, it's a very nice editor, but perhaps not the best. Elsewhere, I read that it's not the best about definition and the image is rickety; it is true! A lower quality editor viewer that I have, an old Chinaglia 8mm, is best of Ikon about clarity of image. To adjust the frame position it's necessary to work a little 'with internal mirrors, which is not easy, and is preferable to remove the black frames around the screen (I read this too). But the Moviscop is really gentle with the film, it goes easy in and out of gate, it runs very smooth! I would like to read other opinions of those who have it. :)

Thank you, Michael. Oh, sorry for name, I had not noticed the rule! But I can not find the option to change the name, I find all other (photo, signature, etc.) but not that.

I know that the Zeiss Ikon Moviscop 8mm is one of the best Regular 8mm editor viewer, but I also know that it has not the frame adjustment function. It is not needed, the image is always well centered on this machine? Or have other ways for centering? I not have this machine, but I could have it and I was interested in this detail. Thank you!

Help for B&H editor viewer of superior posts. 1) Even if no one owns this editor, maybe you know where I can adjust the focus? By unscrewing the lower compartment, one that is labeled Bell & Howell, there is a screw on the little lens, but does not cause almost no effect. 2) It seems to me that the shutter is completely out of sync! Does not display the image properly, rushing without being perceived, as when a film is not inserted precisely on the little teeth of a sprocket.

Excellent analysis, Martin! Sometimes I found overwidth film, with sometimes "over screen" frame. For years and years I have use various Goko dual format, who are good editors, but they have the problem that you said: you can not run fast the winding, otherwise going out of the sprocket. For Super 8 I am fine with a S-2 Minette, we know it has a small screen, but it is very clear and defined, and winding is very smooth, the film runs with real delicacy. I wanted to ask you two things: 1) In the Bell & Howell posted above, this: for Regular 8, you say to me that there is also produced by Elmo (you have a photo of Elmo version?), where is the focus knob? I saw that for the frame adjustment must press the usual sporcket, but the focus?? 2) Which model ONLY Regular 8 you recommend? Thank you! :)

Does anyone have or know this editor viewer? http://www.terapeak.com/worth/vintage-b%20...%20l-filmo-8m%20m-film-editor-with-2-compco-corp-metal-reels/322191514653/ I had read somewhere that is a solid and very good model, Bell & Howell quality (but made in Japan), but if anyone can confirm is better. :) It's for Regular 8, I already have a Goko dual format editor, but it's very old, and I found this B&H in a little market, in a very good state and at half of the cost which is generally sold on eBay. Thank you. :)

There is a difference between a "ND8" filter and one reported with "NDX8" label? Label of NDX8 is Hoya. Thank you!

Oh, I saw this post too late. I already took the original cable release, but I'm sure you would help me very well, Jean-Louis! What a pity! I am Luigi C., from Italy! :) However I meant just that: the cable sold in the shop above it's only a compatible cable, not the original. I was looking for the original, which now I found. Thanks also to everyone for the answers. :) P.S. Jean-Louis, you have, perhaps, an original Beaulieu case for 4008 ZM II, the bag in the little version? The "non-rigid" version.