Luigi Castellitto

Thanks Martin, very clear. I knew the method of opening the cartridge, but I always found it uncomfortable, if I had to shot more scenes double exposed. As for the method of rewind of my Beaulieu, yes, is good, you're right, you could go over 100 frames (a little!), but I thought that the backwinders like the Craven could reverse more of 150 frames, even, example, 300 frames, with more security than the camera. How much frames can the backwinders go to the maximum?

I use a nice Beualieu 4008 ZMII, which has a method, a bit 'complex, to do lap dssolves and rewind maximum 100 frames of film, but I would like to shoot double exposures more longer, so I was interested in the nominated Super 8 rewinders machines. Which of the models is the best? The ewa, the Hama, etc. They work well? I had read of cases in which the film was ripped. When you take the cartridge out of the camera and insert it into the rewinder, and when you pull cartridge out of the rewinder and insert it into the camera, do you burn those few frames exposed on the cartridge? Should you do it in the dark (uncomfortable if you are around) or inside a changing bag?

Hello, I have a Bolex H8 Rex 4 and I would have liked to have an original Bolex bag or case, so I bought an H-1 version of Bolex bags, convinced that it was good for the whole series H : http://www.bolexcollector.com/accessories/case50.html Unfortunately it is not suitable for my Rex 4, it does not come in because the camera have the base, instead this model of case is made for the old H series without the base. Do you know the right bag models for a Rex 4? Thank you.

Thanks, Mark!

Hello, I have a PC microphone, which I wanted to use on my RE-Erno 904 NF and on my Elmo ST-600 D M 2-track (both have a small jack connector for mic) but it does not work. I don't understand about electronics, why does it happen? And what microphone should I buy to use it on the two? Only a "vintage" microphone? P.S. I tried a Philips EL3797/50 mic with Din 5 pin /Din 3 pin ---->small jack adapter, it does not work either, on both, on editor viewer and on projector.

Yes, Mark, I wanted to say this. And instead, when the film passes in front of the optical reading point, in what direction is it? Emulsion or base faces to exciter lamp?

Boys, a question: In 16mm projectors film enter in the projector with the emulsion side on the opposite side compared to the lamp. So, with side with optical or magnetic sound AGAIST the lamp. Ok. Therefore, AGAIST the magnetic sound heads and AGAIST the optical lamp there are emulsion side... SO, not side with two type of audio. How do projector read both type of audio, if it's recorded on the opposite side of the film? therefore

We got a lot from this projector, which I paid only 30 euros! On ebay, it sell also at 150 euro, or new at 380 euro at Leica official shop. I thank you for the help, you made me clear on some points. Today I did another test: I realized that with the movement of my fingers for put on gold base the detached head I move the screws with blue paint, the screws for alignment. So, at this point, I tried to put hand on them, and to unscrew or twist alignment zone (also on delete head). It changes very little, the volume rises and lowers, or the sound becomes more "muffle" or not, but for rec nothing to do, the magnetic head on rec mode it remains mute, and insensitive to the magnetic screwdriver approached. We will see for intervention on the circuitry.

Mark (and all forumist), now I'm looking for someone who can do something for the circuitry, only solution I don't think I can do other tests with the magnetic head, do not you think? I think it's a circuit problem, that does not work and does not "come" from external aux to the head.

This is the manual (in French, online doesn't in English). The recording function is on page 17. http://www.meoptahistory.com/download/Meoclub16-elektronic---SP-pdf-1626.pdf Another thing: when I press the buttons for record, then I don't hear the sound from external source, I have to moderate the volume only by the vu meter. But the manual seems to confirm that this is normal.

In my Meopta I have to press two button at the same time, and rec function should be activated. Then start the projector with lamp or also without, and it rec. I noticed one thing, not positive: when the magnetic normal play function is activated, the "pop" with the magnetic screwdriver is there. When the rec function in activated not... I do not know if is normal, but maybe it's a sign that it does not activate the right circuit of rec.

Yes, it seems strange also to me that the head is "half-defect", play but not record. Yes, the vu muter work perfectly, and I can monitor the external sources, microphone and aux audio (are in two separate connectors, and with the aux I tried to record from PC and from magnetic recorder) come to speaker high and very clear. For a mechanical problem that you mean? Thank you for your support, Mark!

I'v read on forums, even if about Super 8, that if play is ok but not the rec that it's possible a problem of internal circuits. If so, I miss it, I'm not expert, and send projector for repaired (if experts want or can) is not convenient for shipping costs too high. Instead, if is a fuse to be changed or like it, I can do it, but I don't know electric world. In the manuals online are the electrical diagram, but I don't understand anything. Instead, I have a doubt: the alignment or the distance of the magnetic head could create the problem? Even if I see an improbable hypothesis...

Just observation, Mark. Meanwhile, I tried your method, of the magnet (I use a magnet screwdriver) on projector in ON, on both magnetic heads, for only one second, of course. The one that was detached and I re-assembled makes the "bump", the other magnetic head not. If that's for the erase maybe don't have to do the "bump", I do not know. But no problem, if that is for the erase, and it does not work, can always be erased by recording over a mute track. The problem of no rec is in re-assembled head or in other place of projector.

It certainly can improve, I have to do some tests, but is recorded with a small Sony handycam, also affected by that. Meanwhile, a bad news: It not record. The external sources play well in the speaker, both the microphone and the aux, their volume is well adjustable, and uv meter works; but a mute track is recorded without any sound, even a little noise. What could depend? I knew that a magnetic sound head that reproduces well, also rec well, but I was wrong. P.S. Is it possible that the other magnetic head, the one that was not detached, was for rec? That in this model isn't erase magnetic head (the online manual of this model does not have the option to erase)? I don't know if any projector is like this: no erasing head but two head separate, one for rec and one for play.

You're not a technician, but you've given me a lot of help, thank you. Anyway, good news. I placed the head by removing only the gold plate, I could not touch the other screws, and even reconnect the gold plate screws in the direction they were. Magnetic head protrudes a bit more than head for erasing, but is normal, it's longer than the other. As you can see and hear from the video, the results are great. The sound is clear, it does not seem distorted (except as it passes on a stretch of burnt film of the film test). Not very high, not like the optical one, but perhaps the original is so, and for what I have to do is okay. Then ,I only tested the speaker on the projector, I still do not test the cover/speaker. I would say that I am fully satisfied, now I have to test the recording with external source and microphone. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bm2E4Y4tk-A&feature=youtu.be

Magnetic sound test film are this: http://www.wittnercinetec.com/testfilme Ok, very expensive... But, in case, what would be useful to me of the three?

I removed the platinum gold, and I applied the head. With a type of glue for mechanical tools, I was wrong? If it not detach, I will remove the head, clean with alcohol and buy the "epoxy" that you are talking about. Yes, the gold plate have a line (visible in the picture), born from the pressing of the head, for accurately apply the head. But the plate also has large screw holes, form move forward and back the plate in micromillimeters. Is the distance of the home from the film important in the sense of micromillimeter? I applied the head with the label "Tesla" upwards. Do you think that's right? But put it in the reverse can give problems? Yes, I think that I need to re-align the head with the blue screws, even though I only disassembled the gold plate. I hope that I can do it well. Where can I buy sound alignment films? The big screw, the lowest in the picture near the loose head, what is it for??

Thanks, Mark, this method you have told me will keep it in my mind for the future, also if risky. Now I have a news: I've "solved" the problem, my carelessness! I was incapable of what it is, probably, the eraser magnetic head (but I saw two head) and look where the other one is ... Look where the magnetic reading/writing head is... It was hidden beneath the sound drum! I put a head, a second, agaist the running film and the sound is ok, I don't know if it low or distorted, I did not have time to hear good, and the head is dirty, but it works. Now the problem: if I put it back in (head enters below the drum, because the "base" where it leans contracts downwards with the springs, then it "enters"), where is the "gold" place, obviously jumps off at the first movement, at the first turn of the drum, flies away. Why I not disassemble? Fear of screws in different positions distort audio. Ther are immaculate with blue paint, can you see. If I try to unscrew only the "gold base", stick the head and reassemble it? Will screws of gold base cause distortion? And how can I attack it? With strong glue, since the other head to be glued, or welded? And the way it leans (written TESLA label up or down? I'd say up, otherwise the label would come off with glue or welding, I think) is it important or not? Eraser magnetic head (facing upwards): Read/rec magnetic head:

I bought a Meopta Meoclub 16 Electronic 2. I changed the motor belt and the exciter lamp, it works, everything is in good condition, works the optical audio, the motor is fluid, the rewinding, the microphone, etc. The only thing that does not work is the magnetic audio (the projector can also record the magnetic). What can I do? I've already tried to clean the magnetic head with alcohol, but nothing. The speakers works (in fact, with the optical no problem), both, the small speaker in the projector and the large in the cover. Speakers "buzzing", but with the magnetic film in projection no sound, not even far. I noticed that the magnetic head moves well, when I press the button for the optic sound it moves away, when I press the button for magnetic it approach the film. The adjustment screws have not been touched, there is with the blue paint on top. I also tried to touch the head assembly during the projection, but nothing.

Yes, Michael, on some sites it's spoken replacing of inside the camera body it's true.

Thank you, Mark, I had some cocktail stick at home, I think I have cleaned well without scrapping the pulleys. There were many lumps, but now the surface is quite ok and not sticky.

Yes, Mark, belt perished. Thank you!

Do you know how to remove the melted belts residues on the plastic pulley of a projector? Alcohol is good for metal pulleys, but on plastic I'm afraid of doing damage. Thank you.

Only with DS8 convertion, yes. Too bad, it would be good to improve even the normal H8.