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Michael Carter

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About Michael Carter

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  • My Gear
    Bolex H16RX4, H16T
  • Specialties
    Black and white developing, reversal, neg Pos printing,

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  1. I never actually used it. The thing works fine as it is.
  2. A 100 foot spiral tank like the Lomo Pro is great, if available. The metal spiral for 100 to 200 feet would be an alternative. Stacking spirals would be nice, too. That would be a good start. 100 feet of black and white 8/16/35mm film. A 400 foot machine of some sort would be next to try. Then, rem-jet removal and color processing. One thing at a time.
  3. My last effort used PF-2 and the fixer was cold because of winter. It took more than half the 8 minuets fixing time to warm it up. So, there is some yellow color remaining. This was printed using a Bolex H16T camera with bi-packed film from a 7222 negative.
  4. some cine Kodak special mags ARE single perf, some are double perf
  5. Yes. I limit filming to black and white. Developing at home is easy to do that way. Printing is also done and that gets complicated.
  6. Check out these guys https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HARBYJReO54#fauxfullscreen
  7. I am 72 and want to find other people to make 16mm black and white films with in Pittsburgh. Bolexs, Zoom H4N, Darkroom, Lomo Pro, Uhler printer. And if you are older than me that is OK. Younger too.
  8. Thank you both for those lists. Some are on eBay. One seller of a 79 dollar auto eye 16mm camera does not know if the exposure part works, just the motor.
  9. Tyler, shooting manually with 7363 outdoors is difficult when cloud cover is variable, which is most of the time. The slightest change in brightness shows. The film has no latitude. It'd be great not to worry about that. Yes, scoopic, the Filmphotography guy has some videos using one. Just saw it.
  10. Automatic exposure is missing on all my 16mm cameras and lenses. The Bolex zooms with it never seem to work. Does someone fix them? Is auto exposure even used in 16mm? Scoopic? Can they work?
  11. Well, don't point the lights in people's faces, rather, bounce the light off the ceiling or off a wall.
  12. Tri-X 16mm worked self processed using only household lights all on. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MeWFzi2Md7Y&t=0s&index=9&list=PLU2eKg3uAYHj1_SmPcoMNjVerjqCCubS6
  13. 7363 rev in d94/5 25-50 Asa https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=S-w47zFve-s
  14. 25 Asa to 50 Asa. Please review the above data and these photos carefully and tell me that 50 Asa is correct. Unbelievable. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1238841492923304&set=ms.c.eJw1y8kJACAMBMCOxD2iSf~_NSUS~%3BAwMq03CxKE0PXGB4MVaIH3I3uOqBFF2APM5hDZ8~-.bps.a.1232744353533018&type=3&theater
  15. 7363. Core #1 roll #6/8. Bracket test face. 15mm. Cine Kodak Model BB camera. Snow was on the ground and the sky was overcast. 25 Asa was used. The Sekonic incident light meter uncovered read 640 black and 20 red. At 1/35 that's f4. The Weston reflected light meter read off the tripod buoy supported gray card 25 on the low scale and a little less on the high scale. That's f4/5.6 or f4. Exposures were f4, f4-1/3, f4-2/3, f5.6. The lens was covered between shots, shooting a few frames to put black between exposures. Development was in D-94 at 70 f five and one half minuets, agitating 15 times to begin and then 3 times in each 30 seconds. Second development was 4 min. in D-95, same agitations. Pictures look great in all exposures. Take your pick. The face looks best at f4 and the background looks better at f5.6. That would be 50 Asa. A longer FD to 6 min or 6 1/2 at f5.6 might lighten it. Not 7 min though. That is too far. Leader lightens at 7 as will the image too much for me.
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