Luigi Castellitto

On jkcamera doesn't exactly say it: someone knows or has upgraded the viewfinder of a Rex 4, but H8?

Guys, among these choices, is preferable the first one? 32mm ---> 37mm ---> filter 32mm ---> 42mm ---> filter 32mm ---> 37mm ---> 49mm ---> filter Thank you.

Jean-Louis, I did a search, but the I don't find the site anymore, maybe it has disappeared. I took several filters in a multi measurements in that online store, branded "Sonia". In the china shop I think they are, yes, but I don't know if the quality is the same. I don't have rings for filters reaching 52mm. But I can use the combination of the adapter rings 32mm ---> 37mm ---> 49mm (in 49mm I have lots of filters, I would be comfortable). What do you think of this solution? On the 9.5mm camera I also used also 3 rings, without any vignetting problems.

Hello Jean-Louis, I bought this ring adapter many years ago, I needed to adapt filters to particular size lenses mounted on my 9.5mm camera. I don't remember the name of the online store, but only that it was specialized in filters and adapters and that it was in the United States. If I remember something more I'll warn you. What do you think of the "problem"? :)

How do you see the adapter ring that is on the first of the three lenses, on all three, taking into account their features and original hoods that I mount and that I would also use with the filters? Vignetting danger? Maybe on the wider angle (that have small hood, can you see) lens? The ring is a 32mm ---> 37mm, in the photo there has no filter over because at the moment I don't have 37mm filters, but at my home I have 80A, 80B, ND, etc. in 37mm measure. Also imagine the 37mm filter mounted on the three lenses, with that adapter ring. I ask this because 80A and ND filters in 32mm are not nearly found. The lens are the classic three Macro Switar, mounted on my H8 Rex4: http://www.bolexcollector.com/lenses/60kern.html Thank you!

I went to a 3d print shop in my town. He told me that the spare part is too small for the technology he has. :(

True, Bryan, telecine scanning film in tv are from 24 to 25 fps.

Maybe it was the only projector series with that fps. But in demonstration videos that are on Youtube I don't see fast images or higher and distorted audio, it seems all right.

Yes, the projector is Czechoslovakian, but I don't remember a standard other than 24fps for 16mm in the Soviet block. I have to inform!

But why Meopta choose that format, even a risk of having a higher audio or other problem? When the standard of all 16mm was 24fps?

I know this projector has a feature: it run at 25fps instead of 24fps. I don't know why they made this choice, but... this 25 fps could affect the viewing of mute films and audio films with magnetic and optical audio? And of amateur movies shot at 24fps? Is it influential? Thank you.

Mark, the little sprocket it's a candidate for 3D-printed replacement, yes, I can try. In addition, it's a piece that has always been required... If someone had the full image block, it would save me the effort to disassemble it (it's complex). We'll see....

Ok, I found the problem, it's famous, a white little sprocket of "image body" is little broken (known problem of this editor model and Goko equivalent). If someone has a complete "image block" for change it... Otherwise, I'll have sell it for spare parts. Thank you.

I'm testing an Erno RE-904 NF. With great joy, in addition to the very well aesthetic conditions, I know it has a very clean sound, even more than a couple of my Eumigs tha I have. I say joy because are known some problems with audio heads and his editor. Instead, I stumbled into a problem of the most silly about the image. The video below speaks clearly, in addition I can say that the thing is present with "play" mode, in editing mode and off mode, and turning the red dial forward, prism or sprocket or other have a slight impact on each lap. I't sprocket? It could really be a powdery dust or some kind of accumulation (I also tried to spray air) but I can't understand from the outside, and I don't know why I can not open the compartment, I find it occluded. What can I do? Thank you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbq5FyoFYnc&feature=youtu.be EDIT: The problem turned out to be deep than expected. I was able to open behind the editor, where I found mirrors and toothed wheels (where you can look from behind) in perfect condition; and open the front panel to a certain point (in the final of the video where I managed to arrive, sorry for the movement a bit abrupt), where I also did not reveal gears that move unhealthy. The problem after air sprinkle and editor open seems even more accentuated, that image dancing can not only be done by only dirty in the wheels, I'm afraid about the prism. Probably the problem is in the central block, but it are already far beyond my ability, I know that disassembling the "image" block that I show at the end of the video, I don't know where to put hands and I would find myself between screws and vines. any help? https://youtu.be/FeIdlHRah4E

What do you think about Meopta 16 mm projectors? I think that the Meopta Meoclub clectronic 2 is a very good projector, with a magnetic record feature.

Thank you, boys, it's true, I think it's best buy in Europe, the weight of a projector is too much for intercontinental mail. I'm looking for a model that also has the recording function (I have and old striped 16mm films, not Scopitones), just like the Bauer P* "M" version. They are rarer, but I hope to find them. Does anyone know the Fumeo series? He knows if there are any with optical/magnetic sound and magnetic rec option?

Ok, lenses have arrived. The Bolex is busy, for now I can not fit them, but I've seen that they are in excellent condition, not fungus, focus and iris smooth. Only one thing: I've seen that in all three also turn the "base ring", the point in the red arrow of the image. It's normal? Is it necessary to place the lens upright as you want it? https://ibb.co/cgjht6 Edit: Okay, I tried screwing one of lens at Bolex. Stay stop, okay. I thought it would serve to position the value scale up (for comfort) or as you want, I probably missed it.

No problem for american's suggestions. If expansive Ok also only for projector model name.

Can you suggest a 16mm sound (optical and magnetic) projector better for quality/price? I don't seek excellence, but only something that is good, not very expensive, but still available. Thank you!

Thank you, Dom, I try when I get the lenses and and I update here.

Ok, I bought the three lenses at a good price, waiting to test them. P.S. The external link now are Ok.

I have a similar question. I've had a K3 for many years, that I bought the same as the new one. Some time ago the tripop with the camera had dropped to the ground, the camera lightly slammed. I continued to shoot with it, I saw the films, but I did not find any problems. Apart, in films, the usual light leak, very rare the light spots, but I think this is a problem for all K3 What do you think?

I found an image that shows that even the 36mm with the only written "Switar" has the red band. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kern-Paillard-Switar-36mm-f1-4-H8-RX-C-Mount-lens-/252450426753?nma=true&si=kYYMpJv5ymMS4CWCjiQ9b0p6WsU%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 Sorry, Simon, without the lens in hand, I did not understand how to insert the macro function (from without red band to with red band). P.S. How do I post pictures? I've seen the previous ones have been removed. Is not the external link good? I can'tfind the regulation.

So, for enter the macro "mode" function just pull the lens forward and the red band painted comes out? And for return in normal mode have to press in the opposite direction and the red band disappears?

Yes, aluminium, sorry for my bad English, Simon. I'll try to take these three lenses, and I'll test them with the proper films. Too bad for the Kodachrome end, but I have a pair of spare Ektachrome. Do you know how the macro was active? How did the red band go out? By loosening? Pulling?