Joerg Polzfusz

Good point - there are several cameras where you can switch to fully manual exposure or where you've got at least a knob to adjust the automatic exposure by a couple of f/stops (in both directions). There are also cameras where you'll have manually set the film's ASA value as the camera will ignore the cartridge's notches...

Oooppsss... it's not a "focus-ring" on the later models as you'll need an allen wrench to focus.

It looks like it's a "ES Cinelux Ultra Anamorphic 2x MC". On vimeo and youtube you'll find several videos shot with it. There are at least three different versions of this attachment (oldest first): * Golden with focus-knob (most likely the one eBay) * Golden with focus-ring * Black (with gray/silver front) with focus-ring (current model) Not sure whether there are also older versions of this attachment that aren't "MC". (To me the quote "it flares like crazy" sounds like an older non -MC-version.)

BTW: The attachment on eBay is still golden. However the current attachments are black (plus a silver/gray front part). Not sure when they've changed the colours - 2011? However they didn't just changed the colours, but also improved the lenses...

If you really want the best optics, then you should use a new integrated lens, e.g. from HAWK or Zeiss. But be seated when taking a look at the prices! ;-) However I doubt that you'll notice a big difference compared to "lens + attachment" when "only" using a DSLR. This is because the limiting factors would be sensor, codec, ... . So using a decent lens and a new (or nearly new) Schneider anamorphic might be the next best solution. What irritates me in this auction are two facts: * What's exact model of the attachment? (AFAIK that design has already been used 20 years ago - not to mention that I can't look up details like the focussing range, ...) * Is the attachment damaged (quote: "it flares like crazy") or should you simply use a proper lens hood?

I would say that it's a Nizo 4056/4080/6056/6080 in Bill's avatar...

When getting a 2x anamorphic attachment, you can basically choose between three categories: Designed for 35mm-movie-cameras (Chrétien's original Hypergonars, ...) Designed for projectors in cinemas (film formats: 35mm and larger - there also some for digital cinema projectors) Designed for home cinema ("home cinema" in its original meaning: film formats: 16mm and less) AFAIK the first category never showed up on used market (as most likely all of these first generation attachments are now found in museums). Second category: See warnings from the EOSHD-Anamorphic-Guide (even though I've also seen some 35mm-attachments on eBay where the focussing range started somewhere between 1 and 2m, so -when in good condition- you would only have to fight with their larger weight and size.) Third category: IMHO the warnings from the EOSHD-Anamorphic-Guide don't apply here as these attachments are smaller... . However you'll also have to watch the focussing range and the weight. The main problem with these attachments is the vignetting that's mainly caused by their small rear diameter and the -in some cases- relatively long distance between front and rear lens. There are also some "complete" lenses (anamorphic part integrated into a "normal" lens - either designed for 35mm-projectors or for 35mm-cameras and some digital cameras). However the ones designed for projectors can't be used on a camera. And the ones designed for cameras will cost your first born.

Hi, I guess that the warnings from the "EOSHD-Anamorphic-Guide" (as quoted in your other tread) fully apply to this lens. When using an anamorphic attachment for shooting, the sankor 16c might be the better option. (might = The Isco looks bulkier, heavier, larger, ... . And it looks like the focussing range starts at only approx. 5m or 17ft. And you don't know how much this Isco has been used in a cinema (even though it looks rather new). However as the Isco is larger, it might cause less vignetting than the Sankor. However IMHO the focussing range is the show-stopper.) Jörg

Hi, it's possible: http://www.beeldlab.nl/anatomy-of-shooting-anamorphic/ As the device was designed for 16mm-projectors, it weights less than a 35mm one (actual weight is approx. 500g) and is more compact. And it focusses from 5ft to infinity. However it's rear-size is only approx. 42mm (or 43mm or something like this). So you'll most likely encounter vignetting when trying to shoot with a wide-angle or even with a standard lens. Jörg P.S.: If I would have known that the prices increase this way, I would have bought a couple of these attachments for 20-50 EUR a few years ago and would now be very rich. ;)

Using both the 200T and the 500T outside on a sunny day requires a camera that can close its iris more than f/16. And there are many cameras that can't (or where f/22 is the limit). A lot of cameras don't know higher speeds than 160T or 250T. Hence they'll heavily overexpose the 500T. ... In other words: Most cameras shouldn't have any problems with the 50D and 200T (especially when you solve the "too much sun-light"-problem with an ND-filter). Many cameras will have problems with the 500T.

http://www.nakanocam.com/8mm_page/8mmcartridgeandr.html http://www.nakanocam.com/8mm_page/single-8notch.html

Hi, are you sure that it's really fungus? There have been several reports about "strange dirt" (white dots or even brown mud) on Moviechromes that wasn't fungus and that could have been simply washed away with film cleaners applied several times (sometimes even washing with distilled water helped): http://fipra.de/filmbearbeitung/reinigung---pflege/index.html Jörg

Yes, from the grain the 200D is more like the Ektachrome 160s. However -as it's an Agfa-product- its colours/saturation/contrast don't look like any Kodak-product, but like a grainy Agfa Moviechrome 40:

...found them. Please contact me via eMail (jpolzfuss -ÄT- yahoo -DÖT- de).

http://www.oocities.org/sunsetstrip/studio/4474/reloaddouble8mmmags.html I used to have better instructions somewhere...

WITTNER PXR 100 is Kodak Plus-X (7265) WITTNER PXR 50 is most likely Kodak Plus-X (7276)

Hi, I wonder if any lab that processes E6-slides might be able to process 16mm as well: http://yellowpages.sulekha.com/e6-slide-processing_contacts http://www.indiacom.com/bangalore/mallik-e6-processing_bangalore_bgl_977344.html http://www.indiamike.com/india/photography-f58/e6-processing-delhi-t6903/ You might also try Prasad and Rainbow (that is if they still exist at all): http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Category:FAQ#India Jörg

Maybe you should ask the producers of this video (originally shot on film) as it has got the same effect: http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=59885

http://www.super8data.com/database/film_list/film_list.htm http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Category:Film

Hi, IMHO the "rays"/"lines" are the result of a filter, either a "Sternfilter" ("star filter"?) or a "Gitterfilter" ("cross screen filter"?): http://www.amazon.de/Hoya-0803-Sternfilter-6x-58mm/dp/B0000AI1HU http://www.amazon.de/Hama-87358-Effekt-Filter-Gitter-8x/dp/B00005YVF1/ref=sr_1_2?s=ce-de&ie=UTF8&qid=1369380244&sr=1-2&keywords=gitterfilter There are various versions of these filters, resulting in a different number of "rays". Jörg

Hi, when it's the lens from Mark's ebay-link: Focussing range is limited to "from 5m / 17ft to infinity". Hence -even when it's possible to unscrew the anamorphic part- I doubt that the anamorphic part can be used seriously in making a film or video. As the seller claimed that redrockmicro is selling an adapter: Why don't you ask him? (I haven't found such an adapter on redrockmicro's webpage - hence the seller is most likely lying. Not to mention that the Isco is sold as "100mm" while the pics show a "110mm"-lens. Therefore you should think about cancelling the trade and getting either an "integrated lens" that's made for cameras or an "anamorphic attachment" that can be used for both projectors and cameras and that cost a fraction of that Isco....) Jörg

Great! Welcome to the team. :)

When it's a 1.5x Iscorama, you'll only have to focus with the Isco while the camera remains at "infinity". But this only applies to the 1.5x Iscoramas. On all other Iscos you'll have to focus with both the camera and the Isco (as described by Mark). BTW: There are several filters that can be rotated, e.g. https://de.hama.com/00081152/hama-graduated-filter-dark-grey-520-mm. You can get them for nearly nothing on fleabay (in most cases you'll be the only bidder - hence you can get them for 1 EUR + 6 EUR shipping on eBay Germany). If you remove the glass, then you can put it between camera and anamorphot. However this will most likely turn your "Vignetting stops at about 25mm" into a "Vignetting stops at about 30mm".

Hi! My name is Jörg Polzfuß, I'm from Germany (hence my English sometimes isn't that good ;) ) and I only dropped in to tell you that the "myths"-project is still looking for participants: http://www.alice-dsl.net/jpolzfuss/Film/myths.html If you want to take a look at the project from 2012, then visit http://www.alice-dsl.net/jpolzfuss/Film/bridges.html (You'll have to click onto the white" vimeo in the lower right corner to watch the video on vimeo and to read the description.) Jörg