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Gareth North

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Everything posted by Gareth North

  1. Hi David, Thanks so much for making these 3 videos. I have often wanted to visit and wondered what the insides of Kodak Rochester was actually like. There has been the odd short site visit videos on youtube and a 1950s kodak doc but nothing as comprehensive as this. The best I thought I'd ever come to feeling like I'd visited it / certainly understood the process was the book below which I've owned for a number of years. I knew the process was some kind of crazy alchemist wizardry but until you really know the actual process, just how totally batshit crazy it actually is do you come to appreciate all the R&D and material science over decades that has refined it to the point it is now. The BBC have a TV series in the UK called "Inside the Factory" and it looks at all manner of food and product manufacturing factories and I've learnt some interesting insight into various sectors but Nothing Repeat Nothing comes close to the process of manufacturing color photographic Film its just on another level. What's amazing is the openness when previously (according to the book and a previous forum post) all the knowledge was compartmentalized with one or two people in each section knowing that sections processes and barely one or two people knowing the whole process which was a closely guarded secret. I've given the book to various family and friends and usually watch there yaw drop when they begin to realize what actually went into making this then having to imagine doing 75% of the manufacturing process in near to or complete darkness. That's the real kicker. Anyhow thanks again the videos are great! I really wish they'd have an open weekend or something I definetly want to go! Best Regards Gareth 16mm Ektachrome Lover
  2. Hi All, Bit of a long shot but there was an interesting listing of 10x 400ft cans of expired 7285 16mm Ektachrome on UK ebay recently. They wanted £1600 for it I couldn't buy that amount and the seller couldn't be bothered to split it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124808460050?ViewItem=&item=124808460050 To the lucky bidder I wouldn't mind buying a can off you if you don't want it all. I can also offer you my services breaking down the stock onto 100ft spools as i have multiple x40 100ft boxes spools changing bag and have done the procedure multiple times. Best Regards Gareth
  3. Hi, Thanks for the link to the test footage. Gives some idea how it would look in Super 16mm format and when professionally processed. The best shots are clearly when the sun is out I can't get over that yellow T shirt man and the Rose I think this stock is going to be just lovely to shoot with. Someone mentioned this maybe is closer to 64T not that I got chance to shoot that as a 16mm guy and they have gone up the saturation scale a notch but not fully to the original 7285 territory which yes of course was called Very saturated and boy was it! But this is a nice compromise to keep everyone happy. I think the reason it continued in VS is that the original kodak film catalogues had Kodakchrome and Ektachrome as a choice and you could go normal colour pallet or fully saturated. The Kodachrome went leaving only the VS Ektachrome option. They tried reformulating and came up with 64T less VS but clearly never really happy with it hence it not lasting long and never hitting 16mm. They have finally reformulated properly and got something a nudge up from Neutral which as I say I think will please most people most of the time. After all the alternative reversal film is....? Did anyone shoot the Agfa / Wittner Chrome 200D. I believe supply of that is nearly exhausted everywhere. I need to have a look at the one roll I shot with it this year. The Film Ferrarnia guys really missed there window to capitalise on there being no new Color Reversal didn't they! Best Regards Gareth North bolexh16user.net
  4. Hi Nick, I discovered Ektachome and just fell in love with it. Give me all the digital cameras in the world or a roll of Ektachrome and a sunny day and I'll always plump for the latter it is simply glorious there's nothing quiet like projecting the end result especially in Super 16mm :) I was truly crestfallen when I found out it had been discontinued. I actually visited New York for the first time this year. Took my Bolex along saw all the sites had no Ektachome though have been having to shoot Kodak neg for everything now even the home movie stuff and to end up with a colour copy to project I was having to get prints made off the neg at Dejonghe in Belgium and they are really nice wonderfull well rounded lovely to look at prints but there is still definitely some extra wow factor in Ektachrome. The fact that I read Spike Lee's DP just waxing Lyrical about shooting some last rolls he found in 35mm for Spike's last film tell me that I am not alone in this feeling. Best Regards Gareth
  5. Hi Matthew, Sorry for going quiet on you! Got inivited last minute to a festival as someone dropped out. One you could still exchange tickets I.E. No photo idea and then went away on holiday for a bit and then returned to a computer that was dead. Have you totally given up? I will try and see if i can prise my board open if it might still help you knowing those resistor values? Or have you just had enough? Best Regards Gareth bolexh16user.net
  6. I find I'm so excited that I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head. I think it's the excitement only a 'film' man can feel. A 'film' man at a start of a long journey whose exposures are uncertain. I hope I can make it across the border. I hope to see my old film again I hope the Pacific is as blue as it has always been in my E6 dreams. I hope. Gareth North bolexh16user.net
  7. Hi Matthew, Sorry for the delay spent the wekend away from home. Had a look at it this morning and I have removed with a little Allen key the screw holding the heatsink down via a rod to the main metal shell everything is built into. I thought this would be wnough to loose it and be able to remove it but its not buding and I can see no other area to unscrew unless its the ny holding the other heatsink in place?? Any ideas? What did you loose to remove it? Best Regards Gareth
  8. Hi Matthew, Yes I can have a look at that for you. I have x2 controllers the LPC-90 and another one either the MMC 350 or the SCC 300 not sure which until i get home. I'll have a look tonight and see which one it is if its the SCC300 one I'll take the front off and let you know. Best Regards Gareth North
  9. H Matthew, The Norris motor I have attaches to the Bolex camera's 1:1 drive shaft so one motor rotation is one complete loop of the shutter. Is Arri's drive shaft a 1:1 shaft or maybe 1:2 or higher value? I'm sure that should be easy for you to find out! That will make your guesses a bit more tricky if its doing multiple motor rotations to fully rotate the shutter once to know if its hitting its mark or not! Wow I'm impressed with all your electronics efforts. I did do a degree in electronics but found resoldering and fault finding to component level really tedious. I suppose if you can replace all the components thats a good idea as they will all be rather cheap but often caps or others are sometimes burned up or marked so you cannot see what value they were to replace them you must of got lucky if you could identify eveything. Thats great if its working better.Maybe you can make a niche little venture of fixing this stuff for people going forwards! By the way I think you've answered a question i had but never asked! I need to fashion a new plastic drive shaft pin as mine has a crack developing in it. I was unsure what I should be ordering and from where but just done a google search for Acetal Plastic that you mentioned and immeditaly found plastic rods that look like they coud do the job so looks like I know what I need to get so Thanks for that! Let me know how it goes! I think your getting somewhere! If your creative and technical your unstoppable as Robert Rodriquez used to say! Best Regards Gareth
  10. Hi Matthew, I have a pair of Yuasa NP7-12 12v 7ah Batteries to make 24 volts up and it seemed to be working correctly but i had not attached the motor to the camera thinking about it so that might apply some resistance. Either way I need to fully test it this weekend at all shutter speeds and attach to the camera and see if it does actually work properly. This Arri version of the Norris does seem like quiet a fiddly setup can't quiet get my head around how its actually supposed to operate based on your description probably need to see it in action to 'get it'. The capping shutter seems like an extra layer of problems. I never saw. I think I got lucky on the customs I think I paid around $900 for the motor and didnt really pay any customs. Yes let me know how it goes would like to see you get it all working. Best Regards Gareth North
  11. Hi Matthew. I thought I had replied to your 24th of August post while at work but looks like i probably got distracted and forgot to hit Post. I get what your on about now the Nylon point is your drive shaft bit of white plastic that drives the camera from the motor. To ensure that the motor drive did not damage the camera if it tried to turn the camera when it was not set to turn I.E. it was attached wrongly or camera incorrectly configured Dan made it of plastic so the plastic drive pin would break and not the actual camera or motor. Most of the Bolex motors seem to be missing this white drive pin plastic when they come up on ebay. This was explained to me by another shooter who used the Bolex setup in the 90's and made sence. According to this guy Dan supplied two plastic pins as Bolex did a redesign on the drive shaft socket on there cameras this is discussed earlier in the thread. But in effect you can make yourself a new drive shaft pin using some particular type of strong but malable plastic and fashion a drive pin maybe even 3d print it? Will take some times to get right length and mimick the tooths on the end of the plastic to attach correctly to your camera but you should be able to do it! But then you have issue No2 which looks like what I had which is the motor is not bringing the shutter fully closed over the film in a consistent manner (according to your tests). I did some shots in 2016 with the LPC-90 controller meter and motor. The meter meters the scene adjusting the shutter speed to get consistent exposure, I shot a days worth of timelpase only to discover great footage but mared by a white angle of over exposure because the motor was not comming to a stop properly so the shutter was not fully closed over the entire frame when stopped between frames. This is I guess what you think your getting. The motor needs to hit a certain angle of rotation to fully close and your guessing seing as you have not attached the motor to the camera yet that it is not doing this. I got very dissapointred by this at the time and shelved my kit and started searching ebay for other motors assuming it was the motor that was bad very few have come up and each time I have been outbid. I have no idea what make and model the actual internal motor is so as to replace it so was stuck. I knew that this might be a tall order to get working and was happy to accept the risk. £400 in customs and postages seems quiet a lot though. How much was the motor itself? Did you buy it from Calvolsky? Anyhow Michael Bober reactived this thread with his post and I was intrugued to dig all my kit out again and test and I found that bizarely it was all working when I tested a few weeks back. However the reason I think why mine might have started working correctly now is that i did something fancy in 2016 I had x2 12v batteries in series to get 24v and then added x2 6v batteries in parellel to increase ampage. I never tested in any other arrangement. Now I just have x2 12v batterys in series and it seems to be consistnetly hitting the same spot. Maybe you are not suppliying correct voltage / ampage so motor is sloppy in its rotations? How are you powering it? Michael Bober had it doing the same thing when it was powered with just 12v but when on 24v it hits its spot correctly!! Maybe its a power issue? Have you got your multimeter out :) I still need to fully test mine at the fastest motor speed to see if it really is consistent across its range of speeds mine might still have an issue I know I fully put it through its paces that one day in 2016. I need to find the time to test throughly. Anyhow i Hope this splurge of text might help you. Best Regards Gareth North bolexh16user.net
  12. Hi Matthew, I have no idea mate about the Norris Arri setup I'm afraid your on your own unless someone else knows. All the people I have ever spoken with on this forum have all used Bolex cameras. Glad you found the Norris website usefull. Yes let me know how your shooting test goes. Best Regards Gareth North
  13. Hi Matthew, Nice to hear from you! A fellow Brit trying to deal with the legacy of Dan Norris and his timelapse motors! Join the club of 2, well 3 if we include Michael Bober from the US who contacted me earlier this year who's been dusting off his Norris Bolex timelapse setup he used a lot in the 90s. So you have an Arri SR3 have you! I must admit I've not seen a good picture of Dan's Arri Motor but the controllers are the same that control all the variety of motors for all the diffrenet cameras he made kit for so if your missing all cabling then I should be able to multi meter the ones I use and provide you pinouts but obiously the motors are different. On mine the motor PCB and internal electronics can be clearly seen when its unmouted from the camera and he's chosen nice color wires that make it easy to tell positive / negative! The controller can be took apart using small alan keys and find which pins have wires soldered to them. Is your motor fully enclosed? I was missing one cable and Dan used Lemo connectors and It was a pain to identify the Lemo type used but I was able to buy these and make up one missing lead. I'm meaning to do some shots with mine this year but there is so much planning involved plannign arc of sun finding a location that you won't be bothered in and then the whole subject of metering, I know the long term project I'm doing would be improved by having some timelapse shots and having recently looked over my equipment again in some time to find with a different battery arrangement it seems to be working correctly which it didnt before I would like to do some timelapse filming this year. I wish there was some timelapse master class as the trial and error on getting good results with this is an art that probably takes total dedication especially if you want to go from one timelapse shot to another and have them match in speed its a real art. Let me know if I can help out or not! Some pics of your setup would be nice! Best Regards Gareth North Web master of http://bolexh16user.net/
  14. Hi Michael, Thanks for your message. I've been away on holiday for the past 3 weeks and just returned this week, otherwise you would of got a message a lot sooner! Reading through the whole thread myself again today after quiet some time has passed I realise I got Dans LPC-90 kit 2nd hand back in 2015 and I also realise I didnt return to state what issue I eventually had with it (I always thought i had). I started the thread anticipating there would be problems after bidding on a used one before it turned up from the ebay seller and so that came to pass..... I did attempt some time lapse sequences with the kit in 2016 after I had sorted my missing cable and battery issues out where I discovered that the motor was slipping and did not come to a stop at the same position on each rotation so you could get either 1) The shutter fully closed 2) The Shutter fully open 3) partly closed at some random angle (more often this). The Light meter also has some dry joint in the circuit board as i have to shake it and or flex the case to get it to give readings. I didn’t notice these issues until after I got my footage back. So I put this kit to one side and slightly forgot about it always meaning to research the issues further, thinking I'd mentioned the motor issue here and got no response and all the time continuing to monitor ebay in the hope other ones come up. They are few and far between although one showed up earlier this year naturally with busted drive pin plastic and no cables so no way the seller could guarantee that the motor if I buy another one won’t have the same problem as there all going to be 20+ years old now. So I let someone bid and I put the new message on the end of the thread to hopefully snare the person who bid when they inevitably have issues to ask them as all google searches for Bolex+Norrs lead here....... Hence I would be interested to know if yours still works? Or if its started slipping? Are you able to confirm this? I'd love to see a video of a working one where i can see the shutter rotate and each time cover the frame. I want to rule out if this is a common thing or mine was maybe bashed around? Interesting to hear that you actually met Dan who does sound to be a top rate Back Shed cinematic tinkerer of the first order (he did win an oscar after all). I have had a few emails from past users directly to my website address reminiscing of using his equipment telling me they met Dan and how helpful he was to them also. Do you think Dieter might be able to replace the motor or source a new motor for me? I would also be interested to know how you went about setting up a shot for it and where you placed the meter and what shutter speed you started out at initially and what filters you used etc etc and good rules of thumb you learned. I'd gladly do a youtube video talking you through my issues and you can see what mines doing. I'm always tinkering with all things Bolex and would love to finally get to the bottom of this kits issues so as to be able to use it if your able to lend a hand. You can email me if its easier at my website address gareth @ bolexh16user . net Best of Regards Gareth North
  15. Hi All, Thanks for all your input on this. I quiet like what the guys have done here on being able to control a Bolex via Radio Control on a drone:- At 0:36 you see something push the front camera release. Any idea what they might be using? But in any case I want to carry this rig which isn't that heavy around in a shoulder bag with my usual camera and film so i can swap between normal handheld shots and the poor mans steadicam any time. Jerry rigging solenoids on the side to get it to work seems a bit time consuming. So I've had an brainwave I think it might be easier for me to buy a Bolex Self timer:- http://bolexh16user.net/SelfTimerUnit.htm According to my website :) (whenever I researched this some years ago) You get 6 seconds once you press the plunger to setup a shot which can last between 5 and 20 Seconds and there are a few available on ebay right now. Not sure if it attaches on the side or front release I suspect I can velcro strip it to the camera so I can remove and add it as and when required. Hopefully 6 seconds is enough to press and pickup the rig and it settle down before the shot starts. In resonse to your question Stuart Brereton The camera seems very steady walking around with it, I'm very pleased with having the ability to quickly go steadicam whenever I want with the minimum of fuss. Probably need to go gym to increase the handling time I can use it before tiring. Best Regards Gareth North Web master of http://bolexh16user.net/
  16. To whoever just won the auction on ebay for a :- Bolex H16 SB 16mm Movie Camera with Norris Motor Drive and SCC 300 on the At 02:59:46 GMT by seller adorwin2 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bolex-H16-SB-16mm-Movie-Camera-with-Norris-Motor-Drive-and-SCC-300/401474474553?hash=item5d79be5239:g:oWgAAOSwmRFaVtMk Please get in touch with me via my email address. Best Regards Gareth North Web master of http://bolexh16user.net/
  17. Hi All, I bought a Hague Levitator. Its basically a poor mans steadicam:- https://www.haguecamerasupports.com/steadycam-stabilizers/hague-levitator-stabilizer Its mainly for DSLR cameras but it works for cameras up to 2.4kg which intrigued me as I thought I could put my Bolex 16mm camera on it as its under the weight (just) and it works very well on it:- Only thing though is I'm having trouble setting it running using the mechanical cable release. Trying to hold the cable relase (freely unsecured) in my right hand along with the right grip handle of the Levitator and try and with some force press the plunger and keep it plunged and move and hold the rig is pretty difficult. Also if there is some movement of me holding the end of the cable release that pulls on the cable and the middle of the rig moving it and unsteadying the shot. The only option I can think of going forwards are either:- 1) Drill a hole stright through the right grip handle to put the cable relase through although that doesn't seem to stop movement of the cable even when i hold it steady when the cable is moving inside the cable release it unsteadys the rig a little so I don't think its the perfect solution. 2) Buy an old school style self timer I can set running before it fires that would allow me to set it running and grip the rig and let it settle down from swaying before the camera starts runnning. But I suspect this is going to run and run and on some shots I'll want to stop it running without having to put the rig down and stop it which will waste me film. OR I was wondering if there is some cheap device that will allow me to hold down a physically easy to press electic button placed on the right grip a wire could be strung to a device which will attach to the camera mechanical release to push the camera release and unpush it as and when I press down the electric release button. Any Ideas? Greatly appreciated! Best Regards Gareth North Web master of http://bolexh16user.net/
  18. Thanks Dirk! Should of known you'd have an answer! :) I've sent Valerie Seine an Email! I'm quiet surprised that.there is still a source for Super 16mm test films still out there I'm just hoping that its not hugely expensive like the SMPTE one's I've heard about! I'll have hopefully around 1000ft of film for you to develop and print come October! Thanks again Best Regards Gareth North Web master of http://bolexh16user.net/
  19. Hi Mark, Considering (from a British TV perspective) that Yorkshire TV shot the first UK TV Series using Super 16mm way back back in 1987 with "Darling Buds of May" I think a Super 16mm Test Card film was a "niche" thing even during when they when shooting it constantly considering that a major broadcaster was trying to find a test film nearly a decade later in 1996 when that document was written and because they couldnt find one had to create there own! I could approach the BFI but I need a film copy not some electronic copy of a film they hold I need some film. Yes I've seen SMPTE test film and yes there are super expensive. Maybe there is some way of filming a test card but I want to use a test card to rule some things out with lenses on a Super 16mm projector. Best Regards Gareth North Web master of http://bolexh16user.net/
  20. Hi All, I'm trying to find the following test film made for British TV's Channel 4 in the Mid 90s:- https://tech.ebu.ch/docs/techreview/trev_268-hurley.pdf It looks like despite Super 16mm having been well established in the 80s in UK TV productions there was no standard telecine setup film for the format until the one discussed in 1996 so a UK Broadcaster had to create there own. I have emailed BKSTS that are mentioned in the article and also the company who manage Film sales for Channel 4 TV but not turned up anything and I'm unable to trace the guy mentioned in the article. I don't need to find this one specific test film if there are any other Super 16mm test card type films out there people know of I would be interested in owning one. Does anyone out there have one available? Best Regards Gareth North Web master of http://bolexh16user.net/
  21. Posting the Link always helps:- http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-38162810 Thought You might find this all interesting. I hope they find some relative to return the images to. I wonder if this is a record? I remeber some plane crash in an arctic region with a camera having film still in it being undevloped for decades. Gareth bolexh16user.net
  22. Hi All, Having been posting again on this forum recently
  23. Hi David, I'm a backer of your project and choose the Most expensive option at the time x3 100ft 16mm cine rolls as 16mm is my 'thang' the format I love. I don't post very regularly here and only a few days ago started a thread here about the fact that my favourite and nearest E6 lab to me Andec in Germany (who as far as I'm concerned service was Flawless) is apparenly refurbishing and not offering E6 anymore. I'm still unsure where my remaining shot rolls of 100D will be ending up. I thought your Italian guys would be there in the market with new E6 Reversal just when new film would be needed so labs still offereing E6 could stay viable but looks with your extended setup window that couldnt be helped some labs arent making it. It seems people arent switching to WittnerChrome either as a backup (in 16mm fromat anyway) and I havent shot any of it. Is the Wittner Chrome 200D based on Agfa stock still being made? or was it a one off soon to be gone batch? I remeber some online chat you had where I think you said agfa as a business was scattered all over the place! There is one question I'm most interested in checking! When the italians get round to cutting up all the film into different formats can you make sure the 16mm option they cut is a 1 sprocket hole version 1R and not 2R as me shoot Super 16mm :) I presume they will know that is the default arangement for this formats supply? The best of continued good luck on getting this project to the finish line. Best of Regards Gareth bolexh16user.net
  24. Hi Dirk, Thanks for spotting this thread. I did contact you in May about printing a big chunk of my Kodak negative stock but in the end never got round to sending it your way or being able to afford it then. I have never seen any of my colour negative projected as I only projected reversal stock for home movie / family type stuff. Negative stock was always for my film projects which has only ever been scanned once then stored. With things as they are it makes sence to switch entirely neg and print the stuff I want to carry on what has beena family tradition. I'll send you an email tonight Dirk! I do want to pursue this now and see what kind of results I can get printing it. I don't dislike the colour palette of Vision 3 stock I can imagine what the results will be like of it printed judging from my scans but if you were shooting things you knew were destined only to be projected in a home movie way Ektachrome 100D was such a stunner of a stock for that purpose. I truly feel blessed even though I came in at the tail end of the Ektachome era that I got to shoot rolls and rolls of it, it truly is / was magical stuff. Still interested to hear from anyone that has sent Super 16mm Reversal to Super 8 reversal lab in the Netherlands! Best Regards All Gareth bolexh16user.net
  25. Hi All, Thanks for your replies. So Andec are refurbishing there lab then are they? Glad there commiting to doing such things. I understand why they would have pulled there E6 processing (no pun there) if there is no great quantities of new E6 colour 16mm film out there for people to use then people wont need processing. I really just wish the Film Ferrania guys would of by now been producing their new E6 stock before all the last rolls of Kodak 100D stock were spent and labs were not having much new rolls ariving. But no such luck my worst fear has been realised my fave lab has stopped processing E6. I know there is this Agfa Whitner Chrome but I have never shot it. I take it that the Wittner Chrome was in no way being uptaken as a Kodak replacment? I see Andec is still selling it but I presume no one is buying it or using it or that agfa has discontinued it also? I'm hoping this Ferrarnia film does come some way close to the beautifull saturation of Ektachrome as I have took part in there kickstarter for x3 rolls of 16mm film (still hoping and patiently waiting 2 years later). Film and photo were the first lab I ever sent 100D to when first starting to shoot film and they wanted a minimum of 400ft. I was lugging around my 400ft magazine back then so I personally dropped of a can of 100D film off and was given an unexpected and nice tour by the owner and I was I supposed pleased with the results (I knew no better at the time). I then next sent x4 100ft loads to them and asked them to put them on a reel for me and they were really dusty and muchy so next time I sent film to Andec and was blown away with the difference. The smell of a freshly processed role from them was really something then came the glory of projection No dust, No muck or anything and no abrasions of any kind on the film absolutely pristine and colour grain structure so much better. That was my expereince of them about 8 years ago. Maybe different now? What other E6 labs are there that people know are as good as Andec? It would be nice to hear from somone who has expereinced Andec quality level. I'm thinking of just forgetting about colour reversal and shooting Kodak 50D negative and getting prints made at Dejonghe post producion on kodak 2383 stock. The print stock they've had available for a decade. Its 3 times more expensive but ho hum at least its a more reliable option. No colour UK 16mm optical printers available only black and white. Best Regards Gareth North Bolexh16user.net
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