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Nick Collingwood

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Nick Collingwood last won the day on November 29 2018

Nick Collingwood had the most liked content!

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About Nick Collingwood

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  • Occupation
    Cinematographer
  • Location
    New York, NY
  • My Gear
    Canon 514XL is my favorite, Canon 814XL-S and Nizo 801M are also favorites. Also have Canon 814XL, Agfa MOVEXOOM10, Nizo 156 Macro, Nizo S56, Beaulieu 1008XL, Bell & Howell 2146, Argus Cosina 718
  • Specialties
    Motion designer/animator by day but a few years ago fell in love with Super 8 and now have a business shooting weddings and anything else I can on Super 8!

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  • Website URL
    http://www.nickcollingwoodvintage.com

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  1. Mattias I am legitimately stunned. That first link of Disney World on R8 is absolutely the most beautiful and sharp 8mm footage I have ever seen! Such incredible detail and colors that I dream of shooting today but obviously cannot. Fantastic work. I've seen 35mm scans look worse than this! haha. I assume the cost and set up of your rig is quite expensive and complicated? I saw your flickr photo.
  2. You could scan at numerous places. I'd recommend Gamma Ray Digital near Boston. They do some amazing scans. CineLab also in Boston has student pricing. Or there's a smaller shop by Nick Coyle (https://www.nicholascoyle.com/) that can scan it as well. Might be cheapest. All of these can do 2K which I'd recommend over 1080 or less. The quality difference is huge. Local places in your city will be using the lower quality methods.
  3. That's crazy! I don't know of any others but there really are sooo many S8 cameras out there. Just the other week I found out about some cheap... Elmo or something camera that was a reflex camera! I thought Beaulieu was the only S8 cameras that were reflex. Still so many gems out there haha. Also just to chime in on the Fujica suggestion... it's definitely a beautiful, capable and stable camera but I don't know that I'd generally give it as a recommendation except to a die hard. You are essentially required to get all of your carts from Retro8 which ain't cheap and you don't have access to negative stock unless you spool yourself which isn't for the feint of heart haha. I've been researching reloading S8 carts and it's also a bit much. The accessibility of being able to buy fresh Kodak color negative, color reversal and B&W reversal stock easily can't be overstated in my opinion. Also I don't think the Fujica's sell for under $500 generally speaking. Most working models on eBay are like $800. But the camera itself is a thing of beauty no doubt and creates very stable images.
  4. Basically to focus in macro, instead of using the normal focusing barrel on the lens, you use the actual zoom ring it make sure the split-diopter for focusing isn't broken anymore. You don't use tele since you're mere inches away from your subject. The macro "range" isn't just an on or off. There's about 1cm of play in the macro range on the zoom ring which is how you focus. Also you can set the focus barrel to the closest distance but I'm honestly not sure if that makes a difference in macro mode. But can't hurt! Keep in mind at macro focusing distances, the depth of field is VERY narrow so a tripod is recommended.
  5. Well back to the situation at hand, I've shot both the new and old Ektachrome in my Canon 514XL which is similar to the 310XL and gotten great results. IMO, the new stock is a little less sensitive and would benefit from being shot at 80ASA but not a huge difference. Didn't have any issues with overexposure with an XL lens. The stock handles it ok. I shot the older E100D in my 514XL on the beach and was totally ok. Attached a couple stills below from the 2K flat scan without any contrast added back in. In projection it's a bit brighter and more saturated.
  6. Only Beaulieu cameras and Leicina Special cameras have both manual ASA dials and interchangeable lenses. But both are very expensive and maintenance ain't cheap. So I wouldn't generally recommend them unless you REALLY need the sharpest, nicest stuff out there. I'd honestly recommend just getting to know your Nizo better. It can read 50D, 200T and Tri-X perfectly. And you can shoot 500T. I have the 801 Macro and I love love love it. So a few methods: Just shoot it on auto! Seriously 500T has crazy latitude. I've shot it on a beach in a Nizo and it was perfect. See what the camera's meter (reading 500T as 160) shows then using the manual exposure dial, set your aperture to around 1-1.5 stops down (i.e. if the cam reads f4, set it to ~f5.6) then you'll be close to 500T would read without much trouble. Get yourself a handheld meter or just use your phone! Then you can meter and just manually set it. Any camera can shoot any film speed really. As long as you can control exposure. Honestly if you really need the speed, just shoot 500T wide open on your Nizo then push a stop in processing or just in the scan. Scans are so good these days with 2K. And no one even makes film above 500. With that said, if you really want an auto-exposure camera, the Canon 814 series (814AZ, 814XL, 814XL-S) are all great and can expose 400 speed (as well as lesser speeds) and most have slo-mo options and some even variable shutter angles which is amazing. And can be had for $300 or less depending on the day.
  7. From the 1 roll I've shot with it that I shared before in this thread, I'd say yes. I mean it somewhat depends on lighting but mine was properly exposed at 100. Perhaps some of mine were more like 80 or less because of the harsh lighting and limited aperture on my camera though. If you go back a page and watch the film I posted, the grungier film with some lines and a blurred spot in the middle of the frame in it is the FomaPan R100. The cleaner processing with slightly curved gate on the right edge is Super 8 shot in my Nizo 801. I wouldn't use my video is the final say on the process though. This was the first roll of film that little Keystone 8mm camera had seen in probably 40 years. And if CineLab is really improving their Foma process then hopefully your results will be even cleaner.
  8. I think the box thing is because some cameras might engage the filter regardless of filter notch or not so then you'd have some super orange footage. The Nizo metering has always confused me (yet I've managed to get good results). I've shot 100D in my Nizo 156 Macro which meters slightly different and Tri-X in that camera and my Nizo 801, always with the filter set to bulb, and gotten perfect results. The 156 filter is a physical slider to checks to see if the notch is cut, so if it isn't, the slider won't even go to Sun at all. So I've shot F100D and E100D on Bulb. The manual says Artificial light: 16-160ASA Daylight: 10-100ASA B&W: 10-100ASA SO... then the question is, how is my Tri-X reading perfectly in my 801 with no filter notch cut and the knob on bulb? Seems like it's reading it at 160 which should be fine for 200ASA film. Seems like the manual is treating un-notched cartridges (daylight and B&W) the same. But also it does say that all film is tungsten. So how was B&W film notched back then? And how is E100D (unnotched at 100ASA) and Tri-X (unnotched at 200ASA) both exposed correctly when they seemingly shouldn't? Shouldn't the Tri-X be read as 100ASA therefore overexposing it? Or am I missing something here?
  9. I have noticed this myself when searching for 814XL-S cameras on eBay. It seems to be strangely frequent. Any of the cheaper ~$250 ones only run at 18fps but are otherwise in perfect condition. So perhaps some modification people did? I'm confused as well.
  10. My friend... one does not lean into shooting film. One falls headfirst into the awesome black hole that is shooting film. haha. You'll soon get sucked in. Trust me. I started shooting Super 8 like 4 years ago on a whim and now have shot ~150 rolls and currently have a 16mm Arri SR2 sitting in my studio on loan. :D Good luck with the film! Post it here when you're finished.
  11. Ah interesting you have issues with 2K Bruce. I actually was going to come back to this forum and suggest uploading 2K over 1080. I've found that Vimeo gives higher bitrate compression to 2K videos than 1080. Same with YouTube. And I pretty much never scan at 4k so it's not a factor for me. I've found 2K vs 1080 to be a huge jump whereas when I got some 4K scans, the difference compared to 2K was negligible. Granted I primarily scan Super 8 but still. Also Bruce... if you need to replace a video, there's a section under the options for that video to replace it and it doesn't count against your quota. It's under GENERAL>INFO then scroll all the way to the bottom to REPLACE FILE. Boom.
  12. In my experience, first option should be to upload a ProRes 422 (hopefully HQ) file to Vimeo. YouTube and Facebook have no filesize limits whereas Vimeo does if you don't pay. I paid so I could upload higher res stuff. Otherwise you have to keep your uploads to 500mb and that's next to impossible to retain good grain for a several minute film at that rate. If I DO compress, I use 50mbps bitrate which still gives me a ~1.5 gig file for a ~4 min film. Another option might be (counterintuitive as it seems) apply a small amount of grain reduction to your film first. Basically gives the Vimeo/YouTube compression less hassle to deal with therefore potentially getting cleaner results.
  13. Same as Andy, had issues with expired 7285 on several carts. I think it's just the age. The film is getting settled into the cart after all these years so it's not as loose. At least that's my theory. When it jams, I sometimes just pull the trigger again and it goes. And if not, I take it out, slap the cart on my leg a few times and bam... working again. With that said, 7294 was smooth for the 1 cart I've shot so far. Perhaps your camera motor is a bit week? I think (probably wrong but who knows) that Vision3 film is a bit easier to transport so less jamming if at all.
  14. I've got an 814XL-S (similar enough but no lap dissolve) and it really is a beauty of a camera. I haven't heard of many of them dying honestly. And so feature-rich and solid lens. Definitely not the sharpest though, especially wide open. But that said, it's really one of the greatest S8 cameras out there and worth the investment. I got mine for a steal as it was broken but having used it so much now, I'd throw down the cash for another if this one bites the dust. Just being able to switch from 150º to 220º is clutch! Also from my research I've read the R8 is actually less sharp than the R10. But also I want to toss in the Nizo 801M in to the running for its extremely sharp lens AND..... lap dissolve! Ha. I also have a Agfa MOVEXOOM 10 (ok I have a problem!) and do like the camera. Very similar to the Nizo (apparently got sued because of that) and great although I've only hand processed film I've shot with that so can't attest to its sharpness. Dimmer viewfinder though... But.... Nizo's are harder to service. Du-All in NYC services both the Nizo 801 and the Canon 814XL-S and 1014XL-S (and Beaulieu I think). Although to be honest, as said before, the lap dissolve button doesn't get any use on my Nizo because I can just do that in post and no need to risk the shot not fading perfectly. Is there a reason you must have this feature? Is your project staying fully analog?
  15. So a few years back, I found a non-working 814XL-S on eBay for a mere $35+$15 shipping. Problem being a corroded battery stuck in the handle and no battery cover (like you). Well after some research, I cleared out the battery and then LOTS of research landed me at Du-All camera in NYC. Thank the heavens for them They sold me a cover for $30 (what I paid for the camera! haha) and my new $80 camera was up and running perfectly. All that to say... give them a shout. Or maybe Pro8mm might as well since they service them too. Also if you really want to jerry-rig it... you could put two pieces of tin foil to connect the circuits like the cover does then... like tape a piece of cardboard in there? Ha. I just know this because before I got my official cover I wanted to test if my battery removal methods actually fixed the camera before I spent more on it.
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