Matt Irwin

David, this is a fantastic idea you have. I am fortunate to have a father who is a DP as well and I grew up working on his sets in the summers as an unpaid camera intern. The experience of being able to watch and learn from seasoned pros, and then work with them was PRICELESS. I'm glad to see that you are willing to give someone who may not have a relative or friend in the business an opportunity like that. Anyone in New Mexico (or that can get there) should take up this offer!!

I know this is quite off topic, but I figured I would put this out there since there are some DITs and many other people here that are knowledgeable on the topic... I'm asking this on behalf of my 'analog' dad: He's in the market for a new TV, and wondering (cost aside) if getting a HiDef TV worth it when most of the programming out there is SD? Of course there is an advantage with DVD's and component RGB, but what about broadcast content? I think he should go with the HD set, as there seems to be more and more HD content coming out, but what do you guys think? I think he's concerned about the pixelation that occurs when viewing SD broadcast content on an HD monitor. Thanks.

I doubt it's HDV because last I heard, there are no US broadcasters that will accept HDV-originated footage. I saw a few minutes as well, and it looked to me like HD or really good SD.

That's a very good point. I think I'm going to try using a meter in addition to the monitor on an upcoming shoot to see how it works for me. I've never set up an incident meter for a video cam before, so just to check: -Set the camera to desired settings (shutter speed, frame rate [24p, 30p, 60i], gain [-/+]) -Fill the frame with an 18% gray card and let the cam auto expose. -Take a reading at the card and toggle ISO until the F-stop matches the cam. Did I get that right? And the cam ISO won't change as long as the cam settings don't change, correct?

Didn't see much on a google search, but you might be able to find the pinouts Jon Fauer's "The Arri SR3 Book". Don't hold me to that though. :-) Good luck.

Uh, yes, I know it's not it about the toys. Thanks for the concern. I was just complementing the guy's work...

THAT was a DVX?!!!!! Good god!! You wouldn't happen to know who the DP was? Just curious.

Did anyone else notice video gain in some of the shadows? There was one scene in particular in which Crowe and Zellweger have an argument outside their apartment, which Totino played in mostly shadows (looked great). I noticed that on a few shots, there was dancing blue gain all over the shadows, and when they cut to a different shot it would disappear. Could be the biproduct of the DI? Maybe just the print... Other than that I loved Totino's work. Reeeeally nice throughout.

Ian, I haven't laughed this hard in at least a few days. Thank you. :D Seriously though, I totally agree. There are very few books (if any) that deal with practical, under-the-gun, indie shooting. Something like that would be awesome.

By "choppy" do you mean processor lag/ computer trying to catch up, missing frames, or maybe a "strobing" effect? Can you give some details about the computer (processor, ram, video card,etc)? Was your footage shot 24p? Perhaps a dumb question, but are you viewing your footage on the FCP canvas or on a reference monitor? If you haven't already, you should do a test print-to-video and see if the footage looks "choppy". If this is a post problem, you may find some better answers on a different forum like DvInfo.net or creativecow. Best of luck.

You'd be better off using a calibrated reference monitor via the s-video port on the DVX. You can use a meter with DV, but I find that their only use is determining ratios. With a monitor you'll be able to see exactly what you camera is recording. You could also use a waveform monitor, which will show you the luminance throughout your frame. If those are out of your price range, I think there are software versions that will run on a laptop (check the latest American Cinematographer issue).

Check out this thread from DVInfo. From what I've read, the focus ring is free spinning, but it is fully calibrated and repeatable. (Don't quite get how that works...) On the DVX, there is an arbitrary 0-100 number scale that can be displayed in the vf. It doesn't represent distance, but it does allow the focus puller to reference those numbers for a pull. (The DVX is also calibrated) The HVX will have that scale AND the option to display feet but not inches (why not?!!!). The focus ring itself is supposed to feel much more like a broadcast lens, and not like a "tonka" lens :-). There's more in the thread, but those are the key facts. Personally, I wish they would just put some witness marks on the barrel and make everyone happy. [Edit:] Oh yeah, the iris is controlled by a little dial on the body like the DVX. I'm not sure if it has "steps" or is free spinning.

That's a good point. I usually like to work as close to wide open with 1/3'' as I can in order to get the shortest DOF possible, and schneider claims that there is no blooming highlights with the digicons-- it just modifies contrast which makes them attractive to me. (I should just shoot my own test of the farkin' things! :-) ) I've also tried stopping down for the highlights (with no filter) and bringing everything back up in post, but that just creates to much gain for my liking.

Thanks for the reply, Tim. Unfortunately, the XL1/XL1s does not have a built in stretch. I've developed a shooting and post recipe that has given me results that I like, but I'd like to try to make it better. I want to be able to combat the highlights that I sometimes can't control and get a little more range. Do the Ultracons modify only the shadows or both?

I'm interested in the relatively new Schneider Digicon filters. I own an XL1, but I also shoot projects with other cameras. I'm constantly trying to get a better dynamic range (or create the illusion of one) with video, as most of the projects I'm currently working on are ultra low-budget and can't afford higher end SD/HD cams or film. Does anybody have experience with these filters? My concern with these is when I crush the image in post to get some decent blacks, the effect of the Digicon would be 'cancelled out'... or am I just crazy? Thanks