Ruotsalainen Werner

Started shooting with my Webo yesterday (currently, a 10m test roll - rethreaded on a 30m wheel - only); currently, only with the 8-64. Albeit the 6-80 seems to work on the Webo just fine too - it's just so much bigger and heavier. Nevertheless, there's no "looseness" and the Webo seems to be able to cope with the weight of the lens. (BTW, here are my "making of" videos showing the process of filming, in chronological order: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JeBaj0TM40, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1PeTew266I, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myuYw6j9DlM). The camera's viewfinder is an absolute disgrace compared to all other 8mm cameras I've ever shot: it produces an image in only one position. If your eye is repositioned just a little bit, the image is gone. How lame this is...

1. In general, sound-capable cameras mean "dead weight" as you won't be able to utilize their additional hardware for audio recording. 2. Canon has some excellent high-end models; for example, the 1014 XL-S. Nevertheless, I'd also consider an interchangeable-lens camera like those of Beaulieu. Their absolutely huge advantage is the ability to swap lenses. For example, if you absolutely must have (comparative) wide angle and/or low-light capabilities, you can screw in the 6-80/1.2 and if you don't, you can leave on the much smaller/lighter 8-64/1.9 etc. And those lenses are interchangeable with a lot of other cameras (for example, the Pathé Webo DS8 etc).

I was pretty lucky with my copy of the 6-80: unscrewing the four screws was sufficient. Then, I could really easily remove (it immediately became "loose") the Reglomatic tubes. I've shot a video of the entire process: https://youtu.be/rdWz2QPk8_U

Well, I was pretty lucky with my copy of the 6-80: unscrewing the four screws was sufficient. Then, I could really easily remove (it immediately became "loose") the Reglomatic tubes. I've shot a video of the entire process: https://youtu.be/rdWz2QPk8_U

Yup, it seems I'll need to do the same to my 6-80 as it can't be directly used on the Pathe, the latter having the same problem as most digital cameras with C-mount adapters, except for the Pentax Q and the Samsung NX Mini: the mount is in a "valley" (which I also show in the photo at https://www.flickr.com/photos/33448355@N07/40522730303/in/album-72157707857275244/It will surely have no problems on the adapter-able Pentax Q. The shot at https://www.flickr.com/photos/33448355@N07/32546788817/in/album-72157707857275244/ shows the same 6-80 with the Pentax Q C-mount adapter. I'll test the lens with my Q7 soon and post some results (also see my posts on the 8-64 at http://8mmforum.film-tech.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=012788 if interested). BTW, I have received a lot of additional printed materials for the 5008S (all in German); will scan them. (Currently, on the Web, I could only find the small-format English manual but nothing else.)

The one shown (and annotated) in the shot at https://www.flickr.com/photos/33448355@N07/32546788317/in/album-72157707857275244/ . Note that I also annotated the two loop formers in this default (non-loading; that is, the latch is not extended) state. Here's a shot of the latch manually pulled out, which makes the loop formers "close": https://www.flickr.com/photos/33448355@N07/32546789387/in/album-72157707857275244/ And here's my other BTL camera, where there's no latch at all (one of the previous owners must have broken it entirely?): https://www.flickr.com/photos/33448355@N07/40522730703/in/album-72157707857275244/

And another remark: I've purchased the MR50 Adapter and 357 silver oxide cell kit from The Small Battery Company ( http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_mr50_adapter.htm ). I've measured the voltage drop when the Webo camera does use the battery. Turns out the voltage only drops by 0.001V - with my adapter + battery combo, currently from 1.592V to 1.591V. That is, the adapter may be completely useless in this very model. I'll make some exposure comparison to find out whether the higher battery voltage results in wrong measure values. Fortunately if that's the case, it can be very easily fixed by just dialing another film speed into the exposure meter.

It's a printed A/4 paper - I've used a (tilted) monitor to keep the paper straight. BTW, I've just spent some hours setting up my Webos. Turns both of my cameras have problems: the first - doesn't have a removable battery door (it was replaced by some kind of a manually created, non-removable cover) and, what is worse, it's also missing the spring-loaded quick exposure measurement en/disabler switch. That is, even if I could insert a battery in there, I couldn't (easily) make the exposure measurement work when I wanted to. - doesn't have a loop former latch (important when loading a film) - it's just missing In the second one, the shooting mode dialer doesn't turn at all - it's fixed at I. And when I wind up the spring, the camera shoots until it's completely unwound. That is, it's entirely useless. But at least I'm lucky that 1, the exposure measurement stuff is built entirely (along with the battery) into the cover - I could just swap the cover and use that of the second camera on the first one 2, the loop former latch, fortunately, only closes the loopers but doesn't do anything else. We don't really need it if we just "pinch" the loopers upon loading a film. I successfully loaded a film this way. (And when I didn't succeed, I could just rewind and, then, retry.) BTW, the camera at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKSfa0dXX-o is completely devoid of the additional black "house" on top of the main threading "wheel". Then, of course, the initial loading must be done by hand.

Yup, I've read independent reports of it not being the sharpest etc. The list at http://8mmforum.film-tech.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=001758 lists the lens belonging to around position 50% of the lens list. That is, it's definitely not the best. I've just made some test shots on my Canon DS8 at three different focal lengths (7.5, 15 and 60mm) and different apertures (f1.4, f2.8 and around f.6.4). The setup is at https://www.flickr.com/photos/33448355@N07/albums/72157707821987404 I'll send the film to develop in a week and get it back in about 1.5 months; then, I'll report my findings and comparison with at least the 8-64 (and hopefully also the 6-80), which I also plan to test in exactly the same manner on one of by BLT's.

One of the BTL's came with the 8-64 in excellent condition. (This "kit" cost me 250 eur + shipping off eBay.fr with the original manuals and camera case). I've also ordered a Beaulieu 5008 S with the Angénieux 1:1,2 6-80 mm (for 330 euros; the camera needs re-celling but I don't plan to use it as I'm entirely DS8), from which I plan to remove the, on the BTL or other C-mount cameras, useless zoom / aperture tubes.

Two BTL's. No real-world experience yet as all three cameras are very recent arrivals and I've only shot with the Canon. Nevertheless, electric motors do have their downsides. You can very easily run into battery problems if you stay more than, say, 30 minutes in 0 degree Celsius in strong wind and use NiMH batteries. This is why I've experienced camera slowdown with the Canon during shooting my latest film here in Finland:

I don't think so - but ebay.fr tends to have several of them for quite cheap. (I've purchased both my Webos over a little more than a month ago for around 120eur/body + posting fee.)

It may NOT be that obvious ? I have three Quartz DS-3's (in addition to my newly-acquired Canon DS8 and two copies of Pathe) and all three Soviet cameras shoot excellent footage. The image is stable and, in my tests, didn't exhibit major problems. Note that, so far, I've only shot Fomapan R100 with them and not, say, color material. With the latter, they MAY have problems. Why the remark? Back in the eighties, my Kodak Brownie Movie Camera didn't have any problems with B/W ORWO film (I tend to use ORWO because of its very low price compared to, say, AgfaChrome or Kodak), while the image was seriously jumpy with color footage. I had to increase pressure on the film gate to fix the latter - by just putting some paper behind it. And the opposite was true of my Quarz-5 Std8 camera: it had problems with the B/W film (easily fixable by the same method) without additional pressure, while it worked just fine with color film. This is why the above doesn't guarantee I wouldn't have problems with color film in these three cameras. The lens is reasonably sharp albeit, at least compared to high-quality primes coming with the Leicina 8S, not very contrasty. Feel free to compare my Leicina 8S footage to that of my three Quarz DS-3's to see the difference: DS-3, another DS-3 Leicina (Please read the descriptions of each scan for more info on the four Leicina lens used etc.) Another problem of the DS-3 that its lens "only" starts at 9mm, while the Canon starts at 7.5 and you can get the C-mount 5.5 or 6-80/6-90 for the Pathe for even wider wide end. BTW, it's WAAAY lighter than any of the two other cameras - that's also an advantage.

Yup, it's fixed.

1, So, basically, if I purchase a lens meant for the 2/4008/ 5008, if I remove the Beaulieu Reglomatic tubes (which isn’t very hard according to http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=56320 ), I can simply use the remaining lens on any* C-mount S8 camera like Pathe Webo / Electronic DS8 ones? That’d (being able to film on the Pathe DS8’s) be my main aim. I plan to purchase an 5008 S with a 1.2/6-80 so that I can use the lens on my Pathe DS8’s. It’s only the newer 6008, 7008, and 9008 series (and their lens) that has a different mount that’s impossible to convert to standard C-mount. 2, BTW, it’s strange the Angénieux 1:1,4 / 6-90mm mentioned above is not fit for C mount cameras without additionional mechanical support. I won’t have problems with the Angénieux 1:1,2 / 6-90mm, though? After all, they were also meant for the Pathes (or any C-mount cameras)? *: except for, of course, the Bolex H8 because of its different flange distance

Not really 16mm but both Std8 and DS8, also Fomapan 100; stock bought last April from Norway and shot last May here in Finland: DS8: (shot on three different Quartz DS8-3 cameras) Std8 (thanks to the lens of the two Leicina 8S cameras, much more contrasty footage): Almost all shots have been shot on a tripod. Scan: Wolverine, 15 Mbps hacked firmware, lowest sharpening. Note that all these films have several "making of" 360-degree videos linked in the description of each video.

BTW, to contatenate image files into a video, you can also give a try to "lightweight", free stuff like either "Time Lapse Assembler" or ImageMagick. (Also see https://superuser.com/questions/404915/how-to-create-a-time-lapse-video-from-a-bunch-of-photos )