Antoine Pret

Hi, I got a great pistol grip for flat base bolexes that seems to have gone stiff. I've used it a lot with no problems but now the trigger just won't come back when I press it. I've tried to put WD40 around it but with no luck. I started taking it apart but I don't really know what to look for. If anyone knows anything or maybe has a repair guide that would be wonderful !

You probably didn't have a filter holder while shooting ? The same type of leak happenned to me beacause of that

Hi, I'm preparing for a shot and was wondering if it was possible to have say 3 magasines of 400ft, each one loaded with different film speed and to change them when we need to, so that we can have a more flexible shot list ? Is this possible with a Arri SR3 or AATON XTR PROD , and to keep track of how much film left there is ? Or do I need to organize the shoot based on what type of film I have on the first magasine and so on ? Thank you

Listed on ebay : https://www.ebay.fr/itm/404503284891

Listed on ebay, auction ending 06/10 : https://www.ebay.fr/itm/404515218131

Hi, I'm selling this trusty Minolta flash meter IIIF light meter with ambiant and flash readings. It also has a cine mode (24fps). Very good condition and sturdy build, (made in Japan ) accurate readings. Asking 90€ + ship Pictures : https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1tFLCLi6EflwSwN826G2xbddY2bq5hjlf?usp=sharing

Price reduced to 120 + ship

That's what I was thinking. I mean, besides metering with footcandles they seem fine. Shutter speed to angle is no problem. I saw that you can approximately calibrate a meter yourself with greycard or with the sunny16 rule and the user compensation button. It might not be the best but I can't seem to find anyone calibrating meters in Europe ?? Also, is the flat diffuser something essential to have in a light meter ? Again thanks for the answers...

Thank you Eric for the detailed answer ! The reason I chose those two is mainly because it is in my budget and I wanted to know what will I miss by using them instead of a cine version. I came across a post on this forum stating that the Minolta VI was good for cinematography, but this was back in 2007 even though I don't think a lot changed since in this regard. The manual of both meters states that you can choose FPS, shutter angle, make film speed adjustments, combining spot & incident metering, averaging measures... What more is needed ? Now, If getting a used late 90s/00s lightmeter for this price means a recalibration is needed then yes, maybe I should wait until I can affrod the L-758C !

Hi all, I want to upgrade my trusty Minolta IIIF to a meter with both incident & spot meter all in one. The use is for Super 16mm film work and stay with it for a while ! I have narrowed it down to : The Sekonic L-508 ( not the cine version) The spot meter is 1 to 4 degree but it has no viewfinder reading. The incident hemisphere can be retracted to get a flat reading. It's around 350 to 400€ used The Minolta Flash Meter VI (also under the Kenko 2100 name) The spot meter is a 1 degree, with viewfinder reading. It's around 270 - 300€ used. The hemisphere can't be retracted. Will I be missing some features with one of those meters for cinematography work ? What seems to be the best buy in the long run ? And also do they need to be sent for calibration or it can be done by the user ? Thank you

Up, still available

Thank you all for the insights !

Hi all, I will probably move to Canada next year, and I was wondering what city I should consider to find work and people to connect with in the film industry ? Right now, I do some DP/AC work and also direct on small budget music videos, short films & commercials and willing to work on projects with bigger crews. In France, where I am right now everything film related is pretty much in Paris. I work there sometimes, as I'm 2h from there by train and have connexions, family there. So, I'm mostly looking at Toronto or Montreal and considering Vancouver for the proximity with LA. From what I understand, the scene in Toronto seems bigger but everything is pricier and the competition is harsh. Montreal seems like a nicer place, cheaper, plus I speak both languages - but less work and competition I guess, might be a good entry point before moving to Toronto or other ? Also, very interested in knowing if there are Labs/scan facilities and rental houses that have film cameras, especially s16 ! Thanks !

Hi ! I'm selling this lovely little Arri matte box (Model LMB-3) It's a sturdy clamp-on mattebox that takes 4x4 filters. It has two filters trays, but one has a missing piece that is retaining the filter (see pics below). It has a series 9 adapter so you can clamp it on 80mm OD lenses, and without it's 87mm I believe. You can filtrate with 4x5.6 with an other tray in vertical. The flag can be removed and folded. Can be a great use with ARRI SR cameras but can also work with digital cameras. Asking 150 + shipping worlwide (PayPal or Bank wire). Pictures : https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1TbofEgtwwvKoZUL_sknmp5bCow8ZSDht?usp=sharing Thanks !

up

https://kafardfilms.fr/labo/

You could use the clamp on arri lmb-3 with the 80mm adapter, to use 4x4 filters http://strattoncamera.com/pdf/lmb_3.pdf

Anyone did a SR/SR2 conversion to S16 recently and knows rougthly the price ?

Also works with a wide angle attachment, giving 5.5 - 6mm, similar to the switar + aspheron ( 10% crop for s16 covering), infinity & close focus, some chromatic abberation like the aspheron. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ftfiGh5hxwCdgKEZW3sngF85WXnjcg2d/view?usp=share_link

So if I got this right, if i push back the mount toward the rear optic, it wouldn't work because the rear element would be even farest than before. To be precise, the lens can't be screwed all the way in because it would hit the prism and with this I only get very very close focus (almost touching the lens). So I guess I can't really do anything about it ?

Hi, I got this Kowa 6mm lens that was originaly made for 1" CCTV. It appears that it peforms pretty well on MFT digital cameras so I was wondering if it would work on a S16 Bolex as it is C-Mount. The lens covers S16 in the viewfinder but I can't seem to make it focus to infinity, I just get close focus. I think it is due to the back element being too close to the prism of the bolex. So my idea would to either : 1. Add a c mount thread on top of the one existing, if such thing exist. 2.Remove the screws that retains the c mount and add a spacer to it. Also, I measured the C- mount thread and it is close to 4mm when on my other lenses made for bolex it is 3mm, so there is also that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks !

Aaton XTR prod like the guys who shot "March of the emperor" or a Late model bolex with a PL mount maybe.

Hi, nice images you did there ! You say it's for non-reflex models only ?

Thank you for the infos Tyler, I've been wanting to ask here for a while because I have the same issue on a music video I shot with 50D, at first I thought the lab didn't clean the film properly... Could you explain how you managed to clean it ? I know a lot of it is not going to be visible when exporting but still, you can see some. From the project : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13aVLYnUB6L1wPFG3BTic_zhocsTrJNYJ/view?usp=sharing

I can now confirm that the Schneider cover nearly S16, very small vignetting on the bottom like the switar. Very usable.