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Tyler Purcell

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About Tyler Purcell

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  • Birthday 07/28/1978

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  • Occupation
  • Location
    Los Angeles
  • My Gear
    Arricam ST, 3 perf, Aaton XTR Prod +, Aaton 35III 3 perf, Bolex EBM, K3, Blackmagic Pocket Camera
  • Specialties
    Cinematography (digital cinema and 16/35mm) and post production (DaVinci/Avid/Final Cut Pro)

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  1. I personally have never used an inexpensive jib that works well. The best "low end" jib I've used is an intel-a-jib. It flat-out works. Easy to assemble by yourself. Easy to balance and can take a pretty heavy load. I've used it on many shoots (rental is cheap on it) and you should be able to find one used somewhere. You can also hang a pan tilt head to it, which is very nice and important for real jib shots. The cobra looks pretty lame, for sure not of the quality intel-a-jib. I wish their pictures were better, but the website looks old.
  2. It may have a collapsed element. A good lens if you look from the back forward, should have an upside down image out of focus. If you look from front to back, it'll just have a small image of whatever background you're pointing it at. If you see anything thats "milky" like your picture, that's indicative of fungus, but THAT Much fungus inside a lens is a problem.
  3. That's what "no lens" looks like on a film projector. Are you sure there is an optical element in play?
  4. I had a similar issue, turned out the guy I bought it from, installed the wrong bulb, so it was very dim. Some projectors ALSO have a "pause" diffuser which falls into place when the projector is stopped. Either way, doesn't sound like a horrible issue. Put the videos to "not visible" instead of "private" and we can diagnose further.
  5. Dang, yea it's not there. Oh well. I guess the next step is to talk to one of the guys mentioned above. Andree may have one.
  6. Usually the gear is stored ON THE BASE under a little cover. That's so you can't lose it when you go between the base and no-base.
  7. Because 2:1 crops the film so much, there is a demonstrable loss in quality. Might as well shoot anamorphic and crop the sides to get 2:1. I mean the optimal for 35mm is anamorphic really. That's going to use the full available frame. Otherwise, any other format is "cropping" the negative. Even with 2 perf or 3 perf, you have a smaller negative than the projection format which is 4 perf. So it's all about "optimal" amount of resolution and 2:1 just doesn't really have any optimization on film. Which on digital, you just adjust the theatrical matte, easy!
  8. So make sure that whole assembly turns. Then check the connections. I'll be around during the week next week, on a shoot this weekend. Send me a PM and we'll figure it out.
  9. Oh you need a monitor. That left connector is standard it’s called BNC. The camera produces an SD (standard definition) analog signal. So any cheap NTSC monitor should work fine. The right connector is power and it’s generally a special cable. Tho I’ve never seen a tap like that on the CP before, not sure if it’s externally powered or not. Maybe gotta dig in the package from VP. It should be in there if it’s required.
  10. Got ya, it’s probably a worn connector or the motor is frozen. They’re super easy to take off, few screws on the back and you can also measure the voltage. Also, I’m in LA if ya want me to look. It’s not a big deal to fix unless the motor is toast which I doubt. It’s probably just stuck due to lack of lubricant, or a worn connector.
  11. Oh good that's a good sign. So if it does take up, but no fast enough or something? can you make a video?
  12. I can't quite tell what camera it is, can you tell us a bit more about it? Also, there really aren't a bunch of companies making taps. Even the modern HD taps, can't be used to insure proper focus. The viewfinder is really the only way to insure get focus on a film camera. They only make modern taps for more modern cameras too.
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