daniel mahlknecht

Hi, I yust bought a lensmount that was supposed to be PL-mount (according to the seller) but it definitely is not. Can anyone tell me what kind of mount this is? (see atached file) I thought it might be a BNCR-mount, but there was also an adapter to Arri Bajonet included, on which was written: SFS do not use on s35 or BNCR this would suggest it isn't a BNCR-mount either, otherwise why not use the adapter on a BNCR... so maybe a PV-mount? Maybe someone needs a mount like this and would trade it in for a PL-mount? (I would need it to convert my KINOR 35H to PL-mount) thanks Daniel

Hi, I just bought a russian collimator http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390249357862&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT I need it, because I have an anamorphic lens set in oct19 mount, but In order to rent it to be used on the RED I will have to switch sometimes mounts to PL. I have a OCT19 mount for the RED, but unfortunately, the owner of the RED does not want to change mount on the camera itself. Now I have no idea of how this things work... But if someone can tell me where to find a english manual, or some literature abouth this it might be of great help. thanks Daniel

Now it is official, this auction was a fraud, and my money is appearently gone. I have pressed charges at the italian police, but according to them english police does not cooperate in cases like this with the lawforces of other european countries. Ebay has removed my negative feedback (and three others), saying that the accound had been used by a “third person“. (bancaccount and ebayaccount respond to the same person so what should I think...?) For now the only conclusion is better not to buy in the UK or if, than always pay PAYPAL... I anyhow won't buy ever again in GB... Daniel

I was told now, that the Kahl UT-18 (www.kahlfilm.de) might contain the AGFA RSX50, or that at least this film looks much like it. I will certainly test this film, as I used to like the RSX100 also quiet much and the 50 shouldn't be too different. daniel

I would love to have the AGFA CT precisa 100 as 8mm film, as in my opinion this is the most beautiful slidefilm I know. Has this already been done , or if not maybe someone who could do this reads this post... I took this sample with a VOIGHTLÄNDER VITESSA and the 50mm ultron f2. I'm back to color slide fotography since the AGFA is awailable again :-) Daniel

Finally there are some more news on this camera. Not yet enough for me to place an order, but enough to stay interested... daniel

Just in case someone is interested in this camera on ebay http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170544186138&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Maybe you should be carefull, I yust bought from this seller an AATON 35 III and since the day my money arrived to his bank account (my bank confirmed this not him), he won't answer to my emails anymore. Also the phonenumber he gave to ebay seems not to exist. Since communication was very good until this point I'm not sure enough to report this auction to ebay as a fraud, but if you buy I would recommend to pay at least with paypal. Actually I discovered, that the Foto of the AATON was taken from the internet and so was the foto of the NIKON D3 he also appearently newer delivered.... I hope I was usefull to somebody (and that I will get my AATON http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170536063870&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT or at least my money back) Daniel

the GFM-Quad Filmdolly really would seem the perfect choice, unfortunately I got outbid for yust 10€...

To get rid of the nasty DV pixeling of the grain it will also help to use the composite or Y/C output of the DV camera and capture with a better codec to the computer bypassing the DV compression (I'm now using a Blackmagic Decklink HD extreme card). I use as capturecodec IMX and quality got much better compared to directly capture via the firewireport of the camera. I also had tried to use an HDV camera (the sony Z7) but only on hdv because back then I didn't have an HDMI input. It worked also, but I had big problems in syncronizing the camera to the projector because of the rolling shutter of the C-mos chips. Choosing shorter shutter times did not help much, as apparently the overall scnanning time of the frame did not change, only the single lines were exposed shorter... It worked in the end, but I had to push the shutter up to 1/450. I did the syncing with the telecine Fälker system. So now I'm waiting for the A-cam DII that has a ccd sensor that would eliminate the rolling shutter issue, yust I couldn't figure out yet if the camera can also output directly to a computer and of course if it will ever exist... Daniel

by the way, does anybody know how this deanamorphic viewefinder converter works with the Kinor 35H? http://cgi.ebay.de/Deanamorphic-unit-for-Konvas-Kinor-ARRI-movie-camera-/290449864532?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Film_Cameras&hash=item43a0293754 I have bought it but I can not find out how it should be used, actually id doesn't seem to belonge to the KINOR 35H at all... The seller couldn't help either, so I had decided to risc and try. thanks Daniel

finaly the processed and telecined material has come back, you can see the test at Everything seems ok, but fokusing trough the viewfinder gives a 20-30cm difference compared to metering (at 2m distance from the object). In the Test (I did not put online the test with the fokus charts) the fokus appears to be sharper if made with the meter, so probably the flange of the groundlass is slightly off. Daniel

Thanks for the replies, actually I think that the Elemack is not the right choice for south tyrol where I work mostly, as it appears to be to heavy for the lokal productions (100kg I think), and to old for the bigger produktions coming from Germany or Italy, as the probably will prefer to bring a Magnum Dolly from Munich or Milan. I was hoping that the Elemack was somehow like the Magnum leggero basic in terms of weight (64kg) which kan relatively easily be handled by 2 persons, and would be upgradable in the future if needed. For my own productions at this point renting is still the better and cheaper choice, as I don't need a dolly to often. Daniel

Hi, there is actually a ELEMACK CRICKET DOLLY Mk1. on E-bay at a price that sounds reasonable to me, at least if it can compete in some ways with the MovieTech Magnum leggero. I'm actually working with a MovieTech Magnum leggero in its most simple version, with yust a Bazooke, and no hydraulic column. As there are no rentals colose to where I live and work most of the time buying a dolly would be interesting. My concerns abouth the ELEMACK CRICKET DOLLY Mk1. are that it seems that the hydraulik column can not me removed ant that therefore it might be much heavier than the Magnum with a Bazooka. Does anyone have experience with these 2 dollies? Also the ELEMACK has flat track tires, while I always work with round ones, probably they will not run verry well on round tracks, or does it work? As for the movement features thy seem pretty the same at least from what I can understand from the fotos. thanks Daniel

Infact the mags are a bit noisy especially the big ones, and probably the noise will increase if I really load 1000ft of film instead of 400ft, like I did for the test. But the 400ft mags are not that noisy at all, so they might be the choice for interior shooting. I am also looking to get a blimp like the ones Bruce mentioned. The mags are also built in a way that seems a bit weired to me, the big plasticdiscs inside produce some noise, but this should not be to difficult to fix once everything else prooves to be fine. Also the iron stiks on the cover of the mags are for some reason deeper in the cover than the metal plate, and so the film will touch the metalplate and generate a scraping sound. To my opinion the metalstiks are actually there to prevent exactly this, but like they are now they can't do the job. Tis is the same on all my mags and must be a productionmistake, maybe the metalcover was added at a later point of designing the mags... And then hopefully shooting will start, actually we already planned to shoot in april, but due to screenplayproblems the project keeps shifting, but it will be shot this year. Just a 10min. teaser shortfilm for a feature project but finally on 35mm :-) daniel

The camera has ben lubed by a camtech just before I bought it, I opened it, and it appears to be very clean, and also greased. Actually I don't know what a CLA is? I also recently had modified the registration pin for B&H perforation and the Job in my opinion has been done very well (the noise is more or less the same when running with or without film loaded). To me the camera sounds healthy like a good running sewingmashine, but it's much louder than my AATON LTR7 (it is supposed to be, but I did not expect that it would be that much). On the other hand, I have newer worked with a sync sound capable 35mm before, so maybe I just expected to much... The Sound Guy I worked with using my AATON already hated the AATON when shooting inside... thanks Daniel

finaly I have put together what I need to shoot anamorphic with the KINOR 35H. The camera seems to work fine, but although I like the sound of the camera, it seems to me hardly possible to shoot sound with it (even outdoors). I will have to build a very efficient barney for the camera if I want avoid troubles with the sound guy. Once I get the test developed I will post the footage on vimeo. daniel

You call of 1.66 film gate of film gate with mark " k" and with size of film gate 22,4 x 13,35 mm ? You sure, what you can upgrade of " K" film gate on anamorphic ? As for me, this is do not posible, because, the "k" film gate do not have free surface for cut of film gate on size 18,6 x 22,1 mm ( anamorphic ). If you send me letter on olex.camera@gmail.com i can send you a detailed pictures with size. As of my calculation, the film gate " H" ( normal ) can be upgrade on A anamorphic. Hi, actually it is a “H“, I was convinced it was 1:1.66 but it is 22,4mm x 16mm. So it should work. thanks Daniel

Hi everybody. I have found, that the gate in my kinor 35H has a slide, that is similar to the wratten filter holders of Bolex cameras. Is this slide really meant to place filters into the gate? How recomendable is it to use it for filters, could this alter flange focus distance or facilitate dirt to collect in the gate? Also I'm still looking foe an anamorphic Film gate and ground glass for the Kinor 35H, if anyone is selling one. Actually I sent these days my 1:1,66 gate to have it modified for anamorphic, but I still can stop this from being done. thanks Daniel

Yes, probably collectors go crazy when the find a camera of which only 10 where built :)

thanks, I yust ordered it. Daniel

I had never heared of this camera http://rafcamera.com/nereida-lomo-super8mm...amera-p-15.html Sounds interesting, but specs seem pretty similar to the EUMIG nautica, only it costs 10 times as much, so probably more for collectors than users. Anyone ever used this one? Daniel

Hi, I'm looking for an KINOR 35H user manual, does anyone have one or know where I can get one? english, german or italian would be perfect, french or spanish would also do. thanks Daniel

I had a similar problem, with the leicina special and ecta 100. It wouldn't run steadily and the camera got stuck at half of the film, the film would run propperly in my nizo professional where I finished the last meters. Other films anyhow don't seem to be a problem for both cameras, although I haven't tried the leicina very intensly afterwards, as I decided that I don't like this camera. But as it seems you already tried other films... Daniel

Thanks for your answers, I think I will have the gate modified to a full open gate. Daniel

Hi, I am having modified a 1:1.66 filmgate for the KINOR 35H to an anamorphic gate. Now the question is, if it would be a good idea to have it widened also for the super35 format, making it a silent gate. This way I would have an option to shoot also super35 spherical with the same gate (Of couse I would have to center the lens for super35, but this would be done in a second moment when I will modifie everything to PL mount). My doubt is, that doing this it will be impossible to make directly anamorphic screening prints from this negative, making an optical conversion or DI necessary. thanks Daniel