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daniel mahlknecht

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Everything posted by daniel mahlknecht

  1. Hi, this item might work for a videotap, but first you must get a beamsplitter into the camera, I would sugest (actually this is what I'm going to do as soon as i find the time) to install a Bolex H16 reflex beamsplitter into the IKONOSKOP SP-16, once done this, I belive most 16mm viewfinder knees should work. daniel
  2. The CINEON should be IRIX 6.4 Actually I installed the CINEON software on a OXIGEN II running IRIX 6.5. The software seems to work, but I can't see the CINEON, appearently IRIX 6.5 uses a different protocoll for the scasi port. I bought a IRIX 6.4 and maybe then everything will work,but till now I didn't find the time to find someone capable to install the new-old IRIX and try. Maybe I will have to buy an INDIGO, not sure if the problem is hardware or software... And once the computer should see the cineon, I'm not sure if I will need some kind of serialnumber which I don't have... For the MPX unfortunately I have no information at all, but the Mascine itself runns without error reports, and also the camera controller works. No Idea how to feed it with images thought... thanks Daniel
  3. I modified all my Bolexes to super16. It is not really dificult, you don't have even to relocate the lensmount, just move the filmgate sideways (drilling and milling is involved of course). I would go for a RX5 as you can have the turret lens-mount and shoot 400ft rolls if you have the electric motor and a mag. Otherwise the SBM with its much stronger lensmount and combined with ESM motor and mag also 400ft capable. I'm not so fond of my EL but of course you dont need the extra motor, but no springdrive mecanism either... The RX4 is also good, only no 400ft capability, but much cheaper.
  4. Hi, I wasn't on the Forum for some time... Just saw you message while googeling again abouth the celco. I turned it finally on, and it apears to be working. But how do I get teh immages in it? What computer or player is needed? Do you still have the manual and software? thanks Daniel
  5. Thanks for the reply. I checked now more closely, and the mirror is definitely corroded. It's not a problem to dismantle the camera, I have some experience, I will have only to find a place that can re-aluminise the mirror. daniel
  6. Hi, I Just bought a AATON XTRplus, and found that it has strange bubbles on the rotating mirror. Therefore it is impossible to get a sharp picture in the viewfinder. I Atach a picture of the issue. Does anyone know what this could be? Toes this mean the mirror has to be replaced? thanks Daniel
  7. by the way, I have 3 35mm 4perf Oxberry gates and one 8perf vistavision gate, but no 16mm Gate, so if someone needs a 35mm 4perf I would be happy to trade it for a 16mm gate. (I have already the 16mm Sprocket)
  8. Hi, the reason why I want to use the Blackmagic Production Camera is simply that I already have it. I have used it sucessfully with modified Bauer P8 for 16mm and Bauer T610 for super8 and 8mm telecine, syncing it with Telecine Fälker Sync components. In this configuration the global shutter is absolutely necessary because of the not so great steadyness of the filmtransport. Now I want to build the new machine as I want to digitalize also 35mm and I would like to have also a more stable movemet for the 16mm. Also the light mix head of the Firenze 1500 (no heat will reach the film although it is halogene light) will allow to make a kind of pregrade for older magenta filmrolls ecc. This mashine shlould also allow to be used as an optical printer, by replacing the digital camera with a other oxberry or crass camera, for blow ups and crossconversions of super8 super16 and 35mm ecc. Actually this is more something for my personal fun, as probably nobody else will need analog optical prints these days. I will take in account the safety breaks and install some, and once I'm done with the mecanics, and everything works fine I might even think to use a better sensor than the BMPC4K :) thanks daniel
  9. Thanks for the information. I will try the 25f/sec as soon as I have finished buiding the scanner. Actually 25/sec is what I aim to, as I know how to sync the BlackMagic Production camera to this speed, but maybe I will find also a way to sync it at slower speeds. Right now I still have to change the mecanics of the oxberry in order to free the lightpath for the Firenze Light Mix unit. thanks Daniel
  10. Hi, does annyone know how many frames per sec the OXBERRY 3100 can do? I'm building a Filmscanner out of an Oxberry 3100 + a Firenze System 1500 and a digital film camera (right now a BMPC 4K) 25f/sec is my goal, but do the mecanics of the Oxberry suport this speed? thanks Daniel
  11. Hi, I'm looking for a 16mm or better super16mm Oxberry shuttle movement (OXBERRY 3100 camera or CINEON Genesis PLUS). I could trade it for a 35mm Oxberry shuttle movement, or buy for a reasonable price. thanks Daniel
  12. Thanks for your help. Actually I already wrote to AATON, but no answer yet, probably this is really a prototype and thed don't know to much abouth this specific camera anymore. It is quiet different than the AATON 35III 1. transportpin is on the oposite side as it is on the 35III 2. magnetic drive wheel for the mag is in an other position than on the 35III => mags are not compatible I will post results if I should be able to fix the camera daniel
  13. thanks for your response All my reserch seems to confirm that it is a prototyp. Serial number is 35/12 so maybe more units of this camera have been built, at least 12 maybe. Size and weight is really close to the aaton ltr7 and this with a 400ft mag :) looks like this is the minima for 35mm. The 200ft mag actually is neary as big as the 400ft, as it does not have the active displacemnet mecanism. Unfortunately it will be difficult to get more informations on this camera... I opened the camera up, and the mirror is really electronically synced, i can not really understand if it will stop in a random position when camera stops, or if it will be stopped by a magnete or something like this, as the camera actually is not really working...
  14. Hi, I just bought an AATON 35mm Kamera, that might be a prototype, as I can not find anything specific on the camera... It is not a AATON 35III and looks more like a AATON XTR actually. Here are some pictures: http://www.ebay.it/itm/121425739156?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Does anyone know more on this camera? Maybe also knows where to get a user manual? Strange thing is also, that the claw movement seems not to be linked mecanically to the rewolving mirror, actually when the camera stops running, the mirror continues to turn until stoping in an arbitrary position. Maybe mirrior and filmtransport aresynced electronically? and the mirror continues to turn afretwards, because this way it was cheaper and easyier tu build? My intention is to use the camera, and not for the shelf (actually I'm modifiig it for PL-mount) I'm grateful for any help thanks Daniel
  15. Hi, I just bought a Cineon Genesis Plus and a Celco Digital Film Recorder eXtreme MPX. I would be grateful for every documentation abouth this 2 mascines. User and service manual would be grate if someone has a PDF. thanks Daniel
  16. Hello all, I encountered a problem after I did the firmware update 31.6.16 on my RED ONE MX. The footage I shot after this has all a kind of strobing problem, not only when panning but also with everything moving inside the frame. I reinstalled the firmware more times following the installing manual. I tried also to downgrade the camera but the problem remains. Has someone an advice to give or a solution to this problem? Thank you
  17. Don't know about Canada, but there is now at least 1 in Italy (Bolzano) :-) With the brand new 160GB card next week testshoot in combination with the kenlab Gyro stabilizer KS-6 ... daniel
  18. Hi, what do you mean by out of phase? that the shutter is not synced correctly with the filmtransport => the picture is vertically more or less smeared? In this case the motor drive belt has slipped, and mirror and film transport got out of sync, or better are not aligned correctly. This is apparently a common problem with the kinor, and the camera should be regularly checked if this is ok. I think it should be easy to fix. http://konvas.org/how-to/disassembling-the-kinor-35h-35mm-motion-picture-camera.html this link could help daniel
  19. A reloadable Single8 cartige would be usefull indeed. For now I will have my films shipped in future to a friend in austria. This way it will take longer to get them but I should get them at least. I will also ask next time to have shipped the films with a tracking number. daniel
  20. Thanks, unfortunately mr. Tak has no tracking number and could not help me, he only could tell me the date the films were shipped. I guess the films are definitely lost. Bad thing that after this has happened, I feel very uneasy in shooting anything serious on single8 anymore. Then again a friend of mine also newer got his super8 Rolls back from Andec Film, this would make super8 also rather unsafe... maybe I should yust leave Italy and find a place where you can trust the post service :-(
  21. I would also like to know, if single8 rolls can be shipped for processing to retro8 in Japan after the tsunami. I guess postal service should be fully operative again in Japan, right? I already lost 2 rolls of processed R25N due to shipping (it's now 11 months that they have sent it back to Italy), and since they did not ship a tracable package, I don't even know if japanese or the italian postservice lost the films. I know Italian Post is really bad, still this is the first time that I didn't get my things at all, so maybe also Japanese postservice could be the problem. Anybody knows the reputation of the japanese postservices? I still have 10 rolls with processing at retro8 and don't dare to use them. The materials I lost were rather important, it was a teaser trailer for a “bigger“ project, that I shot in Iceland (so it can't be redone).... daniel
  22. Hi, does anyone know how the LECINA SPECIAL should be lubed or cleaned? I just opened mine, but there is no old hardened grease, everything looks perfectly clean and dry and turns smoothly. Still, when I first tried the camera it always would get stuck after a few seconds. I used the now old Kodak 64T, so maybe this was the problem? The same cartigge turned easily in my Nizo Professional, although it would hardly work with my Bauer A512... In case, what kind of grease should be used? thanks Daniel
  23. As far as I understand the 512a should in any case work with the 100D, it did not work properly with the 64T. I never used the the variable shutter so I don't know this part, but theoretically the manually changed shutter angle should only give shorter exposure times but still correct exposure. Try to frame an evenly light subject and and check what the automatic exposure says. with the manual shutter set to 1, it should show you 1 f stop more then with the shutter in open position. If the f-stop does not change, than it will result in a fade out or underexposure. daniel
  24. in my opinion this was not a rebuilt projector, as you hardly will be able to capture this much of the perforation. I use a rebuilt BAUER t610 projector with open gate and telecine fälker components for transfer, and I come close to show that much of the perforation, but only close. The issue is probably that you did an HD transfer, and HD (in this mashines at least) can do only 16:9 transfers witch gives 2 options. 1. crop the picture to 16:9 (loose inmge information) 2. have a lateral letterbox and in this case seeing the perforation but not loosing any part of the image I have done also transfers from negative and using a simple setup like I do will result in flat colors. daniel
  25. if you are interested in this camera on eBAY I would reccomend not to bid or if you do pay only with PayPal (will probably not work) I'm nearly 100% sure it is a fraud. http://cgi.ebay.de/HD-camcorder-Pro-camera-Sony-PMW-EX3-/330538723927?pt=Filmkameras_projektoren&hash=item4cf5a4aa57 hope this is usefull to someone. daniel
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