daniel mahlknecht

Thanks, this was exactly the information I needed, unfortunately it confirms my worstcase theory. I will check out this consumercamera, might be interesting. daniel

Maybe the question was not so clear. Actually it was wether there exists a way to play a tape recorded on the canon XLH1 without using a canon camera but any other device including cameras from other producers. This because I know that I can't get easyly an canon camera but maybe something else yes. Might also be only a problem of HDV1 uncompatibility towards HDV2, which would mean, that a player that can read a 1080i 50 HDV2 signal can read automatically also a 1080f 25 signal (which also is HDV2) but I don't know if this is thrue or if I only want to belive it. thanks daniel

actually we already shot on the tapes, the problem is that we don't have a player capable to read 1080 25f material, as we don' have the canon XLH1 anymore, but only a Sony FX1 which can read only 1080 50i. I know that the canon reads from the tapes (the datarate problem concerns only the Panasonic 200 if I'm not wrong but thats not HDV but HDvc pro) daniel

Hi, I need to capture HDV 1080 25f material recorded with the CANON XL H1. As I don't have an H1, I tried the Sony FX1 but it can't read the tapes. Are there recorders/players that can read the tapes or do I need to use a canon camera? thanks daniel

Thanks, actually the mag should have ben seated propperly, because I had noticed, that sometimes it seems to to be put on right, but then you see, that it is not, and the camera would run anyhow. So I double and tripplechecked this always, first by moving the motor manually, while putting on the mag, in order that the transportdents would properly fit ito the dented wheel on the mag, and then by checking, if the lockinglever really went all the way back minto the locked position. Still this is an issue that makes me feel a little uneasy when working with the konvas, as I dont know how I really can know if the mag is put on perfectly. daniel

Thanks, the loopsize might matter, as I believe that I made the loop towards the takeupside bigger than pictured. As to the focusing, we did measure and use the dof charts of the american cinematographer manual, but as we were notnot 100% sure if all the lenses were ok with the flangefocus distance, we doublechecked also with the vievefinder, (metering result and viewefinder check did always match) especially when shooting in the "macro" region where no marks were on the lensbarrel. I once had to do so already with an ARRI 3, and results were perfect. In fact not always the "macro" shots were out of focus, sometimes the fokus seems to get out of fokus during the shot, I thought that maybe the pressure of the pressureplate in the magazine was to weak. (we continued work on my AATON ltr7 and Bolex SBM (both super16) and now results are ok but of course not 35mm anymore) thanks again daniel

[ As for the focus issues well from the sounds of what you're describing you would have focus issues with any lens that you focus closer than it's minimum distance. If the minimum focus on a lens is three feet, and you have the camera two feet from the subject, you'll have a problem. You would need a close up lens in this case that you can screw onto the lens. Sets are available at any photo shop. Wide lenses will focus much closer than long lenses without any addidtional lens on it. R, With fokusing closer than minimum distance I intended, that I could turn the focus wheel more than to the distance written on the barrel, and saw in the viewefinder (at full open iris) a sharp picture.

Hi, I recently shot with a KONVAS M2 and had bproblems with the frame steadyness, not only in vertical but sometimes also in horizontal position. (we used always the same mag, so it could be also a mag roblem)As we shot nearly everything from the tripod in locked position, this is quiet bad. Does anybody know if there is someone in europe who can do servicing on this camera ( I'm from Italy). I could send the camera also to KIEV for service, as I have friends there. We also had a flangefocus problem with one of the lenses. Is it possible that if you focus closer than the nearest indication on the lensbarrel, this causes out of focus images? thanks daniel

actually i have seen footage shot this way at waaghäusl in germany, it was an swiss guy I think, that had modyfied his Bolex DS8 kamera, and of course also his Projector (actually the projectorproblem is thmore difficult to resolve because there are no DS8 projectors you could modyfie, but you have to modyfie an 16mm projector, and there perforation is different. the footage he showed was very nice. unfortunately i don't remember who it was, but I think it was at waaghäusl in in 2002. daniel

Thank you, your answers were very helpfull. I think I will stay with the starting offer, as I already have made it. Case and filters seem nice and the price should be ok, I still can sell the angenieux afterwards. The lens last month was in better shape and cheaper, but without T coating, + location in Hong Kong can raise the price a lot because of tax and shipping. thanks again daniel

I forgot, its this lens: http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...I%3AIT&rd=1

Hi, I'm biding on a zeiss 12-120 t3 MK2 lens, on ebay, but now I'm not sure anymore, if it really is a MK2 lens and not an older lens (T* ?). Maybe someone can tell me more. thanks daniel

ceck http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0120731/ actually I did not like it too much, although I did not dislike it, but I found that cutting abouth 30min. would have been a good idea. Actually I saw it on a ferryboat when I was going to sardegna. daniel

the bauer a512 and the a508 has a built in timelapse control, plus has a a exposuretimeautomatic, which can be used as a timelapse at very low light. bonly this camer has this feature. normaly you can shoot only 10sec. of film with this autoexposuretime function, but by blocking the timerwheel with tape, you can shoot also an entire roll. daniel

I have heard, that it has been done, of course it must be done in total darkness. Also it is important to consider that the AATON minima requires that the film is with the emulsion outwards (normaly the other way round). Also it will not work with normal 200ft daylightcores, as the minima needs the specially designed plasticcores, but if you have some. An other problem could be, that being wound the otherway round (emulsion ouswards) the film has another tension (I hope you understand this, as my english is a bit so so), so if you use film that previously had been on a core emulsion inside, once put it on a minima core it will tend to curve (like a spring) the otherway round. Now in the minima the tension of the film while running through the gate has been calculaten when collimating the flange focus distance. I will change the flange focus only minimally, but I'v been told that it could cause focus poblems. maybe this problem could be resolved by loading the core at least a week before shooting. I have loaded 400ft rolls on 100ft rolls for my bolex in the darktent, there you have to spool twice in order to get the perforation on the right side, I don't know if this is thru also for the minima, might be not as emulsion is outwards, but you will have to try. I hope this was of help daniel

hi, thank you, sounds interesting. Some questions, ist on you lens a arri b-mount undernetah the PL-mount? I'm quiet sure that on the other lens is. Is your lens T coated? Is it an MK1 or MK2 The mount question is important because if I should buy the lens, I won't probably have the time to have it converted as my project starts at the end of august. regards and thanks daniel

try: http://wittner-kinotechnik.de/ they took over everything that was left from beaulieu and sell also overhouled beaulieu cameras. If they don't do it, at least they will know who does. regards daniel

Hi, sorry for posting another question on an ebay lens, but I have a project for my aaton LTR7 and need to buy a decent standard zoom. This Zeiss 11,5-115 T lens is now listed on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...A%3AIT&rd=1 the seller unfortunately is not able to fully answer my questions but maybe someone can tell from the pictures that are quiet good. first, is this an MK2 or MK1 lens? what t-stop has it (I haven't understood yet what the T-stop really is, is it the effective f-stop at 115mm?) is this an PL-mount adapter mounted over an arri B-mount (if not I have to modyfie the lens as I have an AATON mount + an adapter to ARRI B-mount lenses) Do adapters to AATON-mount for PL-mounted lenses exist? thanks daniel P.s. the 0 feedback listing is a little scary, but the seller answered to emals sent through answer function on ebay.

Isn't this the same auction for an LTR7 thar has already been on ebay several times where the selle asked you to contact him directly because "ask" function of ebay was broken? now auction seems clean, but 0 feedback. I'm quiet sure it's the same fotos and description, maybe someone remembers better than me. The auction itself is very interesting, but... http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...A%3AIT&rd=1 daniel

of course the lens is the most important thing on a camera, but then I also must consider what I'm going to do with my camera. Right now on film I can do only no or low budget films and I simply can not aford a top lens. I do this movies mainly because I love working on film, but where I live you will never get the money to shoot on film, the day this will happen, I will rent a nice set of prime lenses.. daniel

I need a decent super16 zoom for my AATON LTR7. I found on ebay these lenses and wonder if they would be ok? http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...A%3AIT&rd=1 and http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...A%3AIT&rd=1 the 25-250 is really heavy, but I have a cameflex-aaton mount adapter. the 17-68 looks like a stillfoto lens to me, and I don't know if it can be adapted to an aaton or arri baionett mount. my maximun budget is 2000 euro (not for this lenses, should be something better for that money) I already have a 9,5-75mm angenieux and a 12-240 angenieux but both don't really cover super16. I also have a sigma 8mm in aaton mount and a nikon-aaton adapter and stillfoto lenses (till now I have unsed only the 8mm and nikon lenses) thanks daniel I forgot, I'm also considering this canon lens http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...A%3AIT&rd=1 I have read somewhere that they are not so bad daniel

thanks a lot. It had to be the absurdness of the question that they did not answer . I don't know why I haven't thought of my own to contact the lokal AATON service. I will probably try in Germany as Munic is closer to where I live than Milan. Still, the Kamera works fine and both of the mags seem to be ok, , I shot a short fiction with it (6 loads) and there were no scratch problems or any problems at all. Soundlevel seems ok too, at least better than the Arri SR we had at school. now i will need a nice zoom lens, as it seems to me that the nikonlenses have not a really accurate flange focus distance (with 2 out of 3 I could not really focus to infinit, meterscale wasn't accurate too) thanks again daniel

I recently bought an aaton LTR7 modyfied for super16. now this camera is different from the usermanual as well as from the tecnicans manual I recently bought. the viewefinder must be different the lensmount is different (to center it for super16 i have to loosen the upper 2 screws and then i can moove it from left to right) also the batteries get mounted the other way round, the mag release button is on the top , and the framespeed selection knob is on the side and not beside the 24/25 sync button. (pictures are downloadable from www.dapalmerfilm.com/download/aatonLTR7.zip ) I sent a request to AATON france if it was possible to cange the viewefinder and update it for a videoassist and timecode but I didn't get a replie (maybe they don't understand english or the request was to absurd?) serialnumber is C170 maybe someone can tell me if these things are possible if this particular aaton is worth it and if there are other differences to the "normal" aaton LTR7 (this one hasn't even an AATON logo) then I have the suspect that the two mags I have have once been taken apart and been rebuilt mixing the parts, as there are only super16 parts for one mag (see picture). maybe someone can help me thanks daniel

thanks for your help. if i undersood right the jvc reads everything, while the sony reads only 1080i, this would make the jvc the better choice. but the dvcam rec function of the sony is also not bad. I think I won't buy anything untill they don't decide to built a decent recorder. Bad is only, that my jvc br-dv600e does not read propperly many tapes, that the firewiresupport for my canon xl1 is not working (but reads the tapes ) and that the jvc gydv700 is the worst player for dv tapes i have ever seen as it sees everywhere dropouts (since the camera was new) I use only panasonic professional tapes, so it should not be a tapemixing problem. hm... must think abouth it thanks again daniel

hi, Im a bit confused by the new HDV recorders. I need to buy a new one, as my old DV recorder is giving some problems. BUt does exist a recorder that can read all the HDV formats that are around? the cameras all have different systems, the canon has only the 1080i and 1080f + new HDV2 codec, the jvc the 720p and the sonys the 1080i. then I need primary the 25p (final cut studio does not support it, and I bought it just because of the HDV compatibility taking 25p for granted :angry: )and 50i mode as I live in europe a. as this recorders cost around 4000? i can not just buy one and then not be compatible to half of the cameras. if anyone knows something abouth it it would be very usefull thanks daniel