Jump to content

Eric Dinger

Basic Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Eric Dinger

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Occupation

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  1. Looks like you may be right, didn't notice that the lens was only held in place with 1 screw and a clip. The guy I bought if from thought you pulled the bottom off of it, but that looked difficult/involved to change a globe. Now, do I have to worry about touching the lens? Sorry if these seem like simple questions, I've only used open face lights up until now.
  2. I just got a baby solarspot and it needs a new globe, should be easy enough, but whats the right way to get into the thing! Do I pull the box thing (has the switch and light control) off the bottom, pull the front apart, take the lens out? Also when using Fresnel's if the lens get touched with bare hands do they have to cleaned like bulbs?
  3. I've used a KEM similar to this (16mm though), and yes the large knob is for the speed, and the three buttons to the right of it are to engage/disengage the transports.
  4. I think that that may be a problem accoding to arri16s.com You'd want to check with someone who knows more though.
  5. Here's a photo of a loaded Filmo, I don't think I'd go any smaller on the loops, especially the bottom one.
  6. My guess would be that you loaded it wrong. Did you remember (or know) to put loops in the film between the sprockets and the gate?
  7. You aren't forming loops. There are some photos of a K3 being loaded at http://www.geocities.com/russiancamera/16m...film-manual.htm , thought that one has the film guides, just make the film loops (the part of the film that runs around the guides) about the size they are in the photo. It also looks like your using 2r (2 perf) film, and you have the film coming off the reel in the wrong place, it should follow the arrow painted on the bottom of the film chamber.
  8. Sekonic does offer a student discount on some of their light meters, including the 758cine, it goes for $549 according to their pricing list. To get it though you have to register on MAC-On-Campus.com, then print out a form, fill it out, get it signed by your teacher, take it to a retailer that participates have them order it special and wait for it to come. At least thats what I had to do.
  9. Well I can say that mine works just fine being lubed, so I guess it doesn't really matter as long as it still slips! About the rotation, the inching knob on the motor should spin clockwise, which means the drive shaft should spin counter-clockwise when viewed straight on. at least it does on mine. I assume all filmos are the same.
  10. I don't know what to tell you, I've read that the clutch it self should be lubed, but that was only one source (the only source I could find). It's interesting because the clutch torque is higher on your model as well. You could try running it, but you may damage one of the gears beyond repair if the clutch doesn't slip, you could also try it by hand, get something about a foot long that fits in the slot on the end of the drive shaft (a flat head screwdriver works well) and pull gently. It may take a little bit of force at first if it's been sitting, but it shouldn't be more that a pound of force. Just to be clear your turning the screwdriver, not turning the motor on. Your motor also doesn't have a int. duty rating does it? Also about running it, you start/stop the camera with by interrupting the power to the motor, the shutter button should be locked to on and the spring motor wound all the way down. In case anyone is wondering, I've seen part #'s for four different Filmo motors, the 12v dc one in this discussion, a 24v dc one, a 115 ac/dc one, and a 115 ac only one.
  11. Guess I'm wrong, Horton Hears a Who? is animated :unsure:
  12. Maybe it was Horton Hears a Who? Says it's filming on IMDB, and a Gehry building would fit right in in any Seuss novel.
  13. Chris I would think that his motor would require DC. It seems like B&H labled things pretty well, I would even go so far as to say that it is a permenent magnet motor for that reason. Mine is a 115 volt model like yours, and it is labled for AC or DC operation. Attached is a picture of the slip clutch and where it's located, this one seems to be greased well. You also can't check out how the motor is wired from here, and I don't recomend that you dissasemble the whole motor.
  14. The slip clutch is under a round cover that's about 1 3/4" across on the right angle drive, it's held on by 3 screws (on mine anyways), not real hard to get to. Unfortently I don't know what the right kind of grease is, if yours needs to be replaced. I also wouldn't go around dissassembling anything inside the cover. I'd like to get a look at it when you come through, get some better photos, if you don't mind. I'll have photos of the cover and the slip clutch up latter tonight or tomorrow.
  15. Hate to do a double post but it won't let me edit my other post. If you go with the power tool battery adaptor, make sure you get one that uses 12v batteries, and don't use anyother voltage! It's important because of the way to motor works if you overspeed the motor you run the risk of damageing your motor and the governor in the camera. How the Filmo motors work: The Filmo motors run at a constant speed, there is a slip clutch built into the right angle drive (your data plate should list the torque required to make it slip, 7 in/lbs I think). You set the speed with the regular knob on the camera and the governor controls the speed. The slip clutch allows the excess speed of the motor to be dissipated, but it has to be in good working order. Make sure the drive housing has good (not hardened) grease in it.
  • Create New...