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Found 406 results

  1. I’m soon going to buy an Eclair NPR, but I want to confirm first: can modern lens mounts be adapted to c-mount? There are a lot of adapters available (like this one: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/577757-REG/bower_va304_c_mount_for_nikon.html), but most forum threads I’ve seen insist on getting the cameflex mount changed to PL instead of adapting lenses to the c-mount. Is the c-mount too weak to hold non-16mm lenses? Does it not accommodate enough space for other mounts?
  2. I’m collecting a couple lenses for shooting 16 (regular 16 for right now, might end up with super 16 though), most likely with an Eclair NPR. I know there are plenty of lens that have been designed specifically for 16, and those are really the only option for anything really wide and fast, but how about using full frame lenses? For a normal or somewhat telephoto-equivalent FF lens like a modern Zeiss 28mm, will it be sharp having its image circle limited to 16? Or will a lens designed for 16 in particular always be the sharper option? Any tests online? I don’t have the budget for nice modern super 16 lenses, so I can either get modern FF lenses (except for one or two old 16 lenses to over the wide end), or I can get exclusively older 16 lenses. Essentially it boils down to, which is sharper on 16mm: a Zeiss CP.2 or a c-mount Angenieux? New to these forums and 16mm, so thanks for the advice in advance.
  3. Hello, My SR2 powers on right when I connect the battery. Is there suppose to be a on/off/standby power switch like in the photo below? Or is that just how some model are? Usually I won't attach the battery until right before I'm ready to roll, to just make sure it isn't left rolling unintentionally or draining the battery. Thanks
  4. Hey everyone, I'm currently taking part in a 100 ft of film project and have an issue. I'm very close to the end of my roll and have to get a few pick up shots tomorrow. The problem is my Krasnogorsk is still somewhat wound up and if I allow it to wind down it will use up the last of my film. Will it damage the spring to leave it wound for 24 hours? The manual says to not store it unless it's completely wound down, but is this just for long term storage? Has anyone left their Krasnogorsk wound up for this long without issue before? I'm worried I have to choose between finishing the challenge or breaking my camera.
  5. Just finishing up with MP4 conversions, DVD and BD files for The 3 Graces. I was very happy to save this film. The film was a badly affected by vinegar syndrome and was headed for the trash...just my specialty. This 'pig in a poke' turned out to be one of the earliest, if not the earliest stag film containing lesbians from the 1920's - 30's. I won't put the link up here when it is online, but I will let you know when I put it on Vimeo and the Internet Archive and you can search for it if you like. I don't know if Vimeo will even go for it, all you can do is try. Personally I don't make any distinction between sex films or not. To me it is all social documentary subject matter. I used a Retroscan for the 2K scan. Initially the film would not scan with the LightPin gate. Luckily I had kept my standard gate which worked fine. I'm thinking of testing a way to use clear warped film with the standard gate by darkening the edge of the sprockets. Warped film does not seem to work with the LightPin gate. Tried every and all configurations. Plan B option is to win the lotto and buy a Lasergraphics scanner. In any case, I was very happy with the Retroscan job. But the trick is to get it to produce useable scans when it balks at scanning the film. There is some slight jitters in the scan, but the warpage was extreme and for what the film looked like the jitters is minimal, I think even the high priced scanner would have some jitters.( But am not sure.) Here is a photo of the film on core: https://archive.org/details/the3graces4.32mbd.d.teolijr. Film is missing the title card and end. But has a decent portion of the middle mostly intact, save tons of splices and blown sprockets. Title is attributed.
  6. Hey everyone, I'm getting ready for a film challenge where our entire short will be made on a single 100 ft reel of Kodak 7219 and shot on a Krasnogorsk-3. In preparation for the shoot I decided to do a lens test with the stock Meteor 5-1 lens on my original Blackmagic Pocket Camera. Surprisingly though, my footage all seemed to be about a stop under exposed. I know that the aperture of a lens doesn't always let in as much light as it should and that T-stops are supposed to correct for this, right? So is this the case here? Have those of you that use the Krasnogorsk-3 encountered this problem? Does this mean that when shooting I should meter for 250 instead 500 to get proper exposure? Any thoughts?
  7. Hey everyone, I recently got some scans back and they look great, but on one shot in particular I noticed an issue with dark circles all throughout the images. I was wondering if this is a lens issue or an issue with my bolex prism? The lens was stopped down to f/22 and I also closed the shutter down an extra stop since these were shots of a bright sky. I have also noticed this issue on previous scans. I did notice in my one Switar lens that there are a bunch of little droplets of what appear to be grease or liquid, could this cause such an issue? The spots are soft, almost identical to sensor dust spots on a digital camera, but they are much larger in diameter. Thank you in advance. -Derick
  8. Hey everyone, I’m looking to clean out some equipment that I no longer use before the holidays, I’ve listed it all below. Let me know if you have any questions or would like pictures, I will only accept secure payments through PayPal. I’m selling the following items: -Bolex Rex o Fader - $60 + shipping -Lomo UPB-1A developing tank with 400ft of heavily expired 7240 and 400ft of heavily expired 7292 - $150 + shipping (just an FYI the lomo tank has some slight issues with the spoked reel, it won’t screw into the spiral properly. Everything else works great for 16mm & Super 8. Light tight) -Bolex Surefire Hand grip with 7 inch cable release - $25 + shipping -Maier Hancock hot splicer - $45 + shipping - (9x) sealed rolls of Ciro 16mm unperforated tape - $30 + shipping please let me know if you have any further questions or want some additional info. I will only ship to US only. thanks!
  9. I am selling my AATON LTR 54, I have had it a couple years and love it very much, however am needing to sell. I am based in London. I will upload more pictures when post is online and can send more to anyone who is interested via email. Last Year I got a full camera service with Alan Giles. All mags tested, body, motor and battery re-celled. The camera runs very smoothly and is in very good condition, having been fully serviced last year.The camera is in two flight cases, one for camera, and an accessories case. -Camera body -3x 400ft mags - 3 12v batteries -wooden aaton handgrip -aaton leather barney -matte box -Short and extended eye piece. -Battery charger. -15mm rod extensions. + a lot of accessories that'll be shown in pictures!
  10. G’day all, I’m on the hunt for a motor for an Eclair ACL. Preferably the higher speed one, but not fussed at this point, just grateful if anyone can please point me the direction of one at all.
  11. Canon 11-165mm PL Mount Super 16 Format T2.5 Amazing Zoom Lens Good shape lens, amazing technically. Includes hard case. £3500 (EU) or $4200 (US) – I am based in London but will be in New York soon so can ship it from there if that helps. Technical Specs Focal length 11-165mm Max aperture (T) 2.5 Close focus 3' Image Circle 16mm Front diameter 95mm Weight 2268g Length 190mm Mount PL Mount
  12. Looking to buy an Eclair NPR. PM me if you have any leads. Thanks~
  13. I’m a new amateur filmmaker located in Massachusetts looking for places to rent nice 16mm cameras preferably eclair, arri, bolex. Anywhere in Massachusetts or near or anyone in mass. Also what’s the best place to learn how to film with film cameras
  14. Hi all, I have shot a few rolls on my Krasnogorsk-3 and all of them have had this mark on them in the top left corner. When the roll begins there is nothing there and seems to be working as it should be, and then as the roll progresses the mark appears and gets worse! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Rob
  15. Hi! does anyone happen to have a maintenance manual and other documentation about Zeiss Oberkochen Opton 10-100 f1.8 (T2) (Arri-B // 16mm)? I converted my lens to s16 (12-120 T2.4) with Abakus (old optex) conversion kit. No vignetting with digital 2k. I've tried to search several times with different index words and and I even asked from Zeiss service. My lens has stiff focus and the focus helicoid needs a proper cleaning. Photos: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1adwPNUXdbbn6m8QPhRRvWs1fP8NU1Riq Thanks! Best regards, Atte
  16. I'm considering buying this Bolex I found at a local camera store. I've been wanting to try 16mm for a while now, and this feels like a good opportunity to purchase. I was wondering if anyone could highlight some pros/cons with this model? I believe it is just the H16 Reflex. It sounds like it runs fine and everything seems to be working, but regardless I plan on sending it to get serviced just to make sure everything is working properly. I'm only aware of Du-All Camera (if anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know). Are there any specific limitations or things I should be cautious of? The lenses seem decent, but I think I'd like to buy some better primes later on. Thanks in advance!
  17. For sale is our full Super 16mm ARRI SR3 Advanced Highspeed kit. This is a full kit including everything you need to shoot. We purchased the camera in 2014 and have used it on a couple of shoots. In 2016 we had it professionally serviced by Panavision in Sydney, one of the batteries was also repacked in 2016 by battery world. See the gear list (Picture) for everything included in the kit with a description of the condition. It was most recently used for a short film in January 2019. As you would expect the kit has got standard wear and tear, the previous owners were Panavision UK. This wear and tear is cosmetic only and does not effect the functionality of the camera. The lens is in mint condition, no fungus or haze. The focus and aperture ring is smooth. We are based in Adelaide, South Australia. Can post via (insured) courier at buyers expense or local pickup. Payment via bank deposit, PayPal (2.6% surcharge) or cash. No returns. For further information please contact Liam Harvey (telecaster7007@gmail.com) or Declan Brown (dbrown5012@gmail.com) serious enquiries only. We are also including 2300ft of 16mm film, the Kodak stocks are old/expired stock, the Fuji stock was bought in 2014 with the camera and has been refrigerated since we got it. We used some fuji stock from the same batch at the beginning of this year and the footage was perfect. The kit is priced to sell at $10,000 AUD We want to sell this is as a kit, so please refrain from asking us about the prices of individual items. Link to a gallery of items in the kit: SR3 Album
  18. Hi, I work at a teaching facility where we have six Arri-S kits with matte boxes. We've been able to maintain all the equipment for a very long time, but one thing we're running out of and can't seem to find are the trays that hold the 2 x 2" filters. We're down to one per matte box, instead of the two they can hold. Does anyone know where I can obtain more? Or is there a relatively sturdy DIY replacement? Could a holder be 3-D printed? Thanks for any advice! Lev
  19. I’m intending to do some double exposures on 16mm film with an Arri 416 camera. The most rudimentary method I could think of is just expose the entire roll (one stop underexposed, or however I feel is appropriate for the subject), make notes of the contents, and then reload the same film to shoot the second layer. But sometimes it would be really convenient to be able to just «rewind» the film right away to do the second layer. As far as I can see from the manual, there is no such function in the camera. I guess you could open the mag and do it manually, but it sounds cumbersome. Anyone done this and know a good method that I haven’t though of?
  20. Can anyone please help me identify a two (round) pin (plus earth 'flange') connector on an RCA Holywood cine projector. The plug (though the plug contains copper pin sockets) has Nettle T80120 written on it. The plug is 120/240v and there is one socket on the projector (with copper pins) as well as earth 'blocks'. There is also a transformer with a plug (bakelite-falling apart) and I also need another plug (to standard three pin uk plug) to plug into the transformer to provide 240v. For images of the socket and the plug, please see: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XC-CEt4hgsNrMVI-tXjdva_kQ3HN9pnC/view?usp=sharing I'd be particularly interested if there is a modern (i.e. non bakelite) version available. Thank you Andy
  21. Hey everyone, I've had a handful of rolls developed from my Bolex H16 RX, and all have had a vertical purple line throughout each frame on the left hand side. There's a faint line on the right hand side as well, but less prominent. The line is more apparent in underexposed footage. Image attached of an underexposed clip. Anyone know what this might be? Some sort of a light leak, or is something scratching the film? Thanks in advance for any help.
  22. I just learned I have access to an Aaton LTR but that the batteries went missing. I've searched for batteries online to no avail and was wondering if anyone here knew anyone selling them? Let me know guys, Thank you!
  23. Does anyone know where I could find a dummy roll of 400ft 16mm to pratice loading? Thanks.
  24. Hi Guys, I own a Krasnogorsk K-3, I purely use it for fun, not professionally. I've put about three rolls through it at this stage, and although I'm happy with the quality of the footage, I notice a large dust build up on all the the footage, as well as some continuous straight scratching on the right side of the film. Have been quoted £400 to have the camera professionally cleaned and serviced, but it's not worth that so I'm not really willing to fork out that much just for a camera that I use for fun. Was wondering if anyone here has experience of cleaning this camera themselves? And if they could give any advice to potentially fixing this at home? I gave the camera a good blow with compressed air, and a little brush the last time I put a roll through it, but still got the recurring issues. Any other help would be massively appreciated! I have attached some images for reference. Best, Jack
  25. Hi, I just want to share link to Paul-Anthony Mille´s posthouse: http://kafardfilms.fr/film-stocks-processing/ He is doing so far, the cheapest work in Europe. 16mm - 400ft = 200 € 35mm - 400ft = 150 € (Prices are for developming, cleaning and 2K/4K scanning) Development is done by Hiventy lab, Paris and Paul is doing scans at his posthouse. I have not met Paul in person yet, I just want to share this cheap and great quality alternative on market 🙂 Many people already know Paul, but for those who not, this is the solution to keep you shooting film
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