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So I really just cant catch a break when it comes to super 8 cameras, I have a Canon 814xls that i got off of Ebay non working, and I got it working perfectly by cleaning the dc jack contacts. However it sounded like a cement grinder at high speed so I had to take it apart and get to the mechanism. I eventually got to it and lubed it and put it back together and nothing, nada, kaput. and I know I put all of the connections in the right place. So the one thing I have not done is to check if i'm getting voltage, I kinda had to step away from it for the night in fear that I would in my sleep deprived state break it more. However I did check current from the battery to see if it was taking current, not even a uA was being taken from the battery. I tried to battery check and it did not work either. So I am kinda at a loss here, if anyone has a 814 xls and is willing to take it apart and compare wiring or even better a service manual that has wiring diagrams. It would be of great help. I will get pictures on here when i get home from school, the only pictures I have right now are my wiring reference pictures on my phone. Thanks Avery
Hello I recently picked up a Canon 814 XL and I have many questions about film speed and manual exposure. To start, Most of the time I'm going to be using Kodak film stock. 50D 200T 500T I understand these are ASA speeds correct? I read my cameras manual and i noticed that it does not read any of these film speeds. Artificial - 25 40 64 100 160 250 400 Daylight - 16 25 40 64 100 160 250 My question is, What will my camera read it as then? What does this mean for my auto exposure and manual exposure? I've read some things in these forums about over exposing manually or underexposing, if thats the case, how do i go about doing that? If someone could explain f-stops to me, or refer me to a video or something that would be great! I've seen a few videos on the subject but I'm still a little confused how f-stops and film speed coincide, and how to underexpose and overexpose, things like that. Another question. I've read about a notch hack that you can do to the Tungsten stocks to disable the filter. My question is, Why would you want to do a notch hack on a Tungsten stock when the internal filter corrects it for you?
Hi all. So my normal go to guy has not replied to emails (strangely) and so I am going to ask around here. I have a terrific Canon 1014 XL-S that I love (not as much as my long gone Nikon R10, but oh well) and it has performed wonderfully for the nearly two years I have owned her. However, right now I am getting a strange problem when shooting. Sometimes it is as if the in camera fade in/out becomes engaged. I'll be shooting and POOF, it stops. When I check the roll, I see the results are an in camera fade out. Like on this Straight8 entry that didn't go so well... https://vimeo.com/57757062 The scratches are a product of the shitty telecine. They ruined my roll. :( Anyway, you can see the issue at 0:22, 0:35 and 2:46. Every other aspect of the camera is fine. It's really mint. But I have a feature shoot coming up and if all goes well, I'll need this camera working 100% since we have some super8 stuff to shoot for a few scenes. I will also be in the market for a backup camera, preferably a tip top Nikon R10. :)