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Found 6 results

  1. Recently I took a chance on a Nikon R-10 on eBay. I love these cameras and the price seemed right . 
 
 Camera arrived this week, looks to be in excellent shape , (physically/cosmetically I'd rate it "Near Mint - "like new" ) , motor sounds smooth, everything seems to work (I shot a test roll and will have that back in a week or two, which should reveal any problems, notably the light meter) 
 
 However, I noticed on a few shots that the auto-exposure seemed to be "sticking" at times ... the needle didn't always move smoothly along the f-stop scale in the viewfinder as the light conditions changed. Sometimes I noticed when moving from bright sunlight to dimmer shade the needle would stick where it had been at f16 or f11 and then suddenly jump to f 5.6 or f4 after a few seconds pointing towards a more dimly lit area. Now the problem seems to be worse as I'm testing it when I don't have any film loaded in the camera , if I just depress the trigger slightly to activate the light meter it seems very sluggish when I move from dim light to bright light , back to dim light ... sometimes the needle moves smoothly as expected, sometimes it sticks and then jumps abruptly. :( 
 I would like to get it looked at . Can anyone recommend a good repair service for the Nikon R-10 in North America , someone you've actually had repair your camera and would send your camera in to again ? (I have seen on his blog that Ignacio Benedeti Corzo highly recommends http://microdeltabalears.com/castellano.htm in Spain for service on Nikon R-10 , but I'd rather not ship it to Spain if I can avoid the international shipping costs , because it's an extra expense on top of whatever it's going to cost to have the camera serviced .) 
 
 I have read in some previous discussions about the R10 that sometimes the needle can get stuck in old hardened lube, which seems like what may be happening here (?) , except in my case the needle does move smoothly some of the time on auto-exposure , but not always. And I can set the f-stop easily with the manual exposure control knob , so the needle doesn't seem to be totally stuck , but is laggy on auto.
 
 
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 I suppose I could get along fine with an otherwise functional Nikon R10 that is manual exposure only , but in the past I almost always used the auto-exposure with my Nikons (I've owned both an R-8 and R-10 before , one got dropped and broke , the other I sold , wish I had not ... ) and had excellent results from the auto-exposure. I would use the camera to spot meter (zoom in close , take a reading) and then lock it with the manual exposure/EE lock, but never became much of an expert at using an external light meter. 
 Lazy , I guess. 
 I realize it's a separate topic to discuss using a hand-held meter to set the exposure manually on a Super-8 camera, but if any of you Nikon R-8 or R-10 owners have any tips , I'd appreciate it. I know the fully opened shutter angle is 160° so if things were simple (which they are apparently not) I'd be able to set the ASA on the hand held meter , then get a reading for the correct f-stop setting at 1/40 sec (at 18 fps) or 1/54 (at 24 fps) and that would be that ... except everything I have ever read says that the reflex viewfinder will steal light , but it always seems very vague to me ... some people say the viewfinder light loss amounts to "about 1/3rd of a stop" others say "about 1/2 a stop". How does anyone really know for sure ? And supposedly all the older hand held meters (I have a Gossen Scout 2 and a Sekonic L-158) will assume that the camera has a shutter angle of 180° , so I have to adjust for that if using the "Cine Scale" on these meters. And yes, I realize the only way to really work it out for sure is to shoot a test roll with bracketed exposures , but do any of you Nikon R-8/R-10 owners have any experience to share on using a hand held meter with the Nikon R10/R8 ? 
 
 With the exposure latitude of the Kodak S-8 neg. stocks if I'm off by 1/3rd of a stop or 1/2 a stop (by relying on the Gossen or Sekonic meter reading) will that really matter too much ? Although I understand that with neg. stock slight over-exposure is better dealt with than under-exposure.
  2. Hi everyone, I’m shooting a test roll at the moment (my first) on a Nikon R10 but I can’t work out whether inserting the filter key turns the internal filter on or off? My understanding from the manual is that inserting the key turns the filter off - but I’m not sure if I’m interpreting it correctly. It’s confusing as it references old film stock (Kodachrome Type A) which I think was tungsten balanced film, and then talks about artificial light which I’m guessing from the time would mean Tungsten lighting. I thought someone on here would probably know from their own experience shooting with the camera. I've read too that the R10 can work it out itself based off the film cartridge, but I've been inserting the key for different shots so am wondering too if this will have any effect to my shots so far? Hopefully me inserting the key has had no effect. Thanks Dave
  3. Gents, I bought the R10 from Super8arena for this project and it performed exactly as I had hoped and prayed. What a brilliant camera. But I did go over budget. And it hurt. So I am going to sell it. It includes the original R10 case, which is in superb condition (no mold smell, smoke smell, etc). There are four filters, the wired remote control and I'll throw in a roll of Kodak Vision3 200T. We shot some test rolls prior to the shoot and all came out as expected. The light meter is damn good and like many R10's you need to go over a stop to have it right (we shot two full stops over for the entire shoot). Motor is butter smooth, as is the zoom. So PM me if interested. I leave for China in nine days so I want to unload it now. I paid $625 for the camera and $50 for the case. I'm looking to get close to that. This is absolutely reasonable. I sold my Canon 1014 XL-S for much much more than that earlier this year and in my view the Canon is a vastly inferior camera. I've shot the R10 in near insanely dark conditions and STILL had a decent image. The optics are insane.
  4. Those of you know know me might have been aware that I left NYC 18 months ago and haven't shot any film in over two years. In fact, I sold all my film stock/camera/gear a few months back. I was done. Whoops. It seems I may finally be doing something I have long wanted... Shooting Super8 for a feature. Now it's not like we have the entire feature funded. Nope. But at this point I am tired of waiting and instead am funding (with a partner) the section of the feature that will be shot on film. Super8 film to be exact. The film essentially has three sections and each section has a distinct look. We are looking at very late September for principle photography in Manhattan. Needless to say, I will soon be looking at scanning options. While I want to shoot B&W we will likely shoot color and convert to B&W in post. Note I say "Likely." I am not yet certain. Tri-X shot right can't be beat. Look at this as an example... Wow. The project is an 85 to 90 minute film and around 20 minutes is planned as B&W film. I will be shooting on a Nikon R10 as well as a few other cameras that will be provided and manned by one of my favorite 8mm shooters (I'll announce who once this is all set in stone). It's going to be so cool to collaborate with this guy. He's an 8mm master. Anyway, just want to let everyone know film is still viable. It's an option. You just have to work at it to make it happen. God help me in pulling this off.
  5. Just wanted to share a short film I recently shot on Kodak 200T with a Nikon R10. Criticisms are welcome although I really just hope you are amused for a couple of minutes.
  6. Recently acquired a Nikon R8 at an estate sale , seems to be clean and in good shape , but NO BATTERY HOLDER so I can't power it on to see if it works !!! :o Does anyone have a spare battery holder for sale ? This is it: I'm thinking I may need to watch eBay for a non-functional Nikon R8 or R10 being sold cheap -- as-is "For Parts" to salvage the battery holder as long as it's clean and not corroded. .
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