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Found 3 results

  1. Hello folks, I'm new on cinematography.com, i'm getting into super-8 as a member of an analog associative Photo/Cinema called ZebraLab based in Geneva : https://zebralab.info/. I am also a photographer by job. With the guys from the lab, we are/have built two machines to cut reels of Fomapan R100 DS8x30,5M to 4x S8x15M to be loaded in Lomo Reloadable Cartridge. That make it really affordable as we buy from Foma factory shop, we are around 7€ for the film and around 3€/film for processing (detail below). According to Super8Wiki, Lomo Reloadable Cartridge acts as 64T/40D -> http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Super_8_Cartridge_Notch_Ruler (down of the page). We would like to turn them into ASA 100, but we don't know wich notch ruler we should trust : - The one from Super8Wiki : super8wiki.com/images/6/6f/Cartridgenotchruler.pdf - Or that one who says the Super8Wiki notch ruler is not that good : http://www.peaceman.de/schmalfilm/super8/S8_Notch_Tools_v1.0.pdf We asume that : as the Fomapan R100 is black and white and that the contrast change induced by the CCA filter is not that big of a deal for us whe should turn the ASA 40D to an ASA 100T, thus cuting a filter notch down on the cartridge and enlarging the upper notch, correct ? Also, as several of us own (and ZebraLab also) a Canon 814 XL-S in working condition, we would like to give a shot at turning one of the cartridge to ASA 400, as the film stock can be pushed 2 stop during processing : we are processing black and white reversal with a mix of two method : Potassium Permanganate + Sulfuric Acid bleach and using a photopaper developper, as the emultion if soften by the bleach, we do hardening bath before to the bleach and one hardening fix bath after second developpement. The hardening concentrate is the Tetenal one (Aluminium Sulfite + Acetic Acid but that need confirmation). You can watch the result here on a Kodak Tri-X 200. (i found the result to be a bit too much contrasted...) But, according to the Super8Wiki notch ruler we are not sure that the Canon 814 XL-S can read ASA 400, even if it say so on different website (that would mean not a notch is pushed by the cartridge, 6 notches without the filter notch, and we tried cuting into an old K40 to make it ac as a ASA 400T but it doesn't seem to make a difference for the exposure sensor, that same camera read and exposed correctly the Kodak Tri-X 200 that you can watch on vimeo...). So : is it possible to turn a cartridge to ASA 400T (or around like a 500T), and would a Canon 814XL-S be able to read it, it can read Vision3 500T, so i guess yes, but how ? That's it for the moment, if you have solutions and/or questions, i'm up for it ! Bye, Jeremy
  2. Hello all, this is my first post upon joining these forums. So basically I'm a bit of a DIY tinkerer whose interests in video film have skyrocketed (after buying and selling a couple I've settle on a Beaulieu 4008 TM II Super 8 and a Krasnogorsk K3 Super 16mm. However, I've recognized a new format for Super 8 called Max 8 (basically widescreen variant of Super * which is normally 1.33 near square format) and the beaulieu is a great camera for this, despite some modification must be done. I am aware that the company Pro8mm does conversions like that, but looking at the price tag I think to myself "well what can they do that I can't?" And from what I've collected the whole process goes as such more or less: removal of the 85 filter system (which I have done myself), widening of the film gate, adding template marks to the viewfinder to mark the resolution, and to recenter the lens and viewfinder to the new window. My Krasnogorsk is almost a template of what to do give or take, with most of the modifications occurring with the widened gate and re centered lens ring and viewfinder. What do you guys think; any advice?
  3. Hello all, I was recently lucky enough to acquire a Canon 1014xl-s from my father-in-law (he'd had it since 1981 and only used it once!) and have shot a couple of cartridges on it, which came out great. I'm a bit of a tinkerer though and on having such a good experience with the Canon I decided I'd like a less valuable model that I can afford to be a little more aggressively investigative with. In light of this, last week I bought a Nikon 8x Super Zoom. As I got the Nikon very cheap, I've decided I might like to do the shutterless modification on it that is described on the Super 8 wiki. I'm hoping this will give me a more tactile appreciation for the internal workings of a Super 8 camera, add an interesting feature I can experiment with, and generally satisfy my occasionally calamitous interest in taking things apart and (90% of the time) putting them back together again. In respect to this, I was wondering if anyone who has done the mod would be willing to temporally reverse engineer it, post pictures and also a fuller description (a lot to ask, I know). What confuses me in particular about the wiki description is that it seems to split the operation in two (the repair section also mentions shutter removal), which has left me unsure if both are necessary or if using either one has the same effect. In addition, the line “access the main drive gear, and "brake" it with your finger as you shoot>> 8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1,0fps” is not entirely clear to me. The combination of the word "finger" with "drive gear" fills my mind with images of gushing blood. Any elaboration on that would be appreciated. Thank you for any insight you might be able to provide. This forum has proved an invaluable source of information during these initial fumblings I’m making into the Super 8 format. Wiki entry: http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Nikon:_8x_Super_Zoom:_Disassembly
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