A couple questions for you ACs out there

[SolomonM]

Hey guys,

 

I had a couple questions for you ACs out there concerning a few random things

 

1) When using IRND filters or true cut filters do these go the furthest away from the lens or closest to the lens (insofar as order in the mattebox)

2) Regarding pulling focus in mirrors, are there any tricks? How do you measure distance if you're running tape? Do you still "focus away" if the subject moves further away from the mirror or would you in fact focus it closer?

3) When doing tail sticks, do you clap before or after you flip it? I've seen both

4) I might have the chance to use cinetape in the near future, how does one actually aim it or keep it on a subject assuming the subject is moving and won't be in the same relative spot of the frame for a whole take?

5) I'll have my first chance to pull on anamorphic lenses coming up, is there anything special I should know?

6) What pens do you guys use on your FF? I have some nice fine point dry erase pens but I can't find a reliable and easy way of erasing it off the FF disk (cleanly). I tried using the eraser tips from my fatter dry erase pens but they don't work very well. I've resorted to just getting some spit on a chem wipe and using that, since it works remarkably well. I just feel silly doing it.

 

Thanks in advance guys

[Justin Dombrowski]

1) Stick any and all Filters closest to the lens on the mattebox. When stacking different filters always put the IR or Polarizing Filter in first (closer to lens) then any ND put in front of that.

 

2) When focusing on a mirror or other reflected surface you have to measure from the sensor of the camera to the mirror surface AND measure from the mirror surface to the subject your focusing on, THEN add those two distances together. That is what you set your focal distance to.

 

3)When tail slating, always stick the slate in upside down with the sticks open, the slate is usually never flipped, and if it were to be flipped it would be after the clap.

 

4)The cinetape detects the subject my movement within the scene. A LED light comes on with the focal distance to that subject. If there is multiple subject within the scene you can set a minimum distance for the range finder so if only detects certain subjects. Also you can tweak other aspects of the range finder to find and stay on your subject. (my recommendation- just take the traditional approach. Make your measurements and marks, and pull like you have never pulled before!)

 

5)http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=44357

 

6)You answered your own question.. use fine point pens and alcohol wipes.

[Tom Jensen]

I prefer to mark the lens with a Stabillo grease pencil. If the ff slips a tooth your marks are done. It all depends on the lens and the situation. Whatever works for the shot but always leave your options open. I have also made little tape arrows and used them right on the lens. Mostly zooms.

[Larry Nielsen]

I know its probably a little late, but the rule of thumb about filters is correct before you difuse. if you think about it, it will help you determin what filters go where in the mattebox, this does not apply to a panaflex, because a behind the lens gel will cover the neg completely.

[Steve McBride]

Most questions have been answered, but here's my input on a few.

 

- I learned that diffusion goes closest to the lens, and an IR or anything straight like that goes furthest.

- If you're using a dumb slate, it doesn't really matter if it's upside down or not. If you're using a smart slate flip first and then mark so that the AE can read the timecode without turning their head. Because of that I always tail sticks by a flip first and then clap to keep it consistent.

- If you're using a Cine Tape, don't rely on it solely, use it as a guide to help you figure out which of your own marks that you taped out are correct.

- Pulling anamorphic is essentially the same, just have to make sure you're marks are correct because anything off the center of frame may actually be an inch or two off the focal plane. Also, try not to pull excessively as the distortion of out of focus objects with breathe more on anamorphics.

- Staedtler non-permenant pens are the best for follow focus discs. Just wet a kimwipe with your spit and wipe clean.

[stephen taylorwehr]

1 - see i actually put IRNDs or hot mirrors as the outer most filter. Yes, filters should be as close as they can to the lens but when using IRs the are the furthest from then lens. IR filters are placed with the writing facing away from the camera. When stacking NDs i always try to get a set of IRNDs and regular NDs. I try to only IR the lens only once. IRND's past 1.5 are just a nightmare for color and even the 1.5s are iffy.

 

2 - mirror shots are as hard as you make them. you always measure to the mirror first and then to the subject. this can be done with the soft tape that way, hard to to the mirror and then from the mirror to the subject sepperately, or i like to use my laser tape. it bounces of the mirror perfectly :-)

 

3 - tail slating. upside down and clap first, then flip. this goes back to film so that you can get the clap in before the film runs out. if using film and you know youre going to need to do a tail slate then bump an insert slate before rolling the scene if possible

 

4 - cinetape. use your 2nd to help you aim it. it does change each shot but youll have to adjust it. and yeah dont soley go by it. it's great for close-ups

 

5 - anamorphics. shallow depth of fields. just be as precise as possible.

 

6 - pens.... meh, i've pretty much given up on them. i hardly use the disks ever. i only go by the lens markings. if need be use china marker or i like to use little bright colored paper tape triangles when on a big zoom. if i do mark disks, it's usually a last minute thing and just use whatever is in my pocket, usually a sharpie and worry about cleaning it off later