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Hello folks,

I'm new on cinematography.com, i'm getting into super-8 as a member of an analog associative Photo/Cinema called ZebraLab based in Geneva : https://zebralab.info/. I am also a photographer by job.

With the guys from the lab, we are/have built two machines to cut reels of Fomapan R100 DS8x30,5M to 4x S8x15M to be loaded in Lomo Reloadable Cartridge. That make it really affordable as we buy from Foma factory shop, we are around 7€ for the film and around 3€/film for processing (detail below).

According to Super8Wiki, Lomo Reloadable Cartridge acts as 64T/40D -> http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Super_8_Cartridge_Notch_Ruler (down of the page).

We would like to turn them into ASA 100, but we don't know wich notch ruler we should trust :
- The one from Super8Wiki : super8wiki.com/images/6/6f/Cartridgenotchruler.pdf
- Or that one who says the Super8Wiki notch ruler is not that good : http://www.peaceman.de/schmalfilm/super8/S8_Notch_Tools_v1.0.pdf

We asume that : as the Fomapan R100 is black and white and that the contrast change induced by the CCA filter is not that big of a deal for us whe should turn the
ASA 40D to an ASA 100T, thus cuting a filter notch down on the cartridge and enlarging the upper notch, correct ?

Also, as several of us own (and ZebraLab also) a Canon 814 XL-S in working condition, we would like to give a shot at turning one of the cartridge to ASA 400, as the film stock can be pushed 2 stop during processing : we are processing black and white reversal with a mix of two method : Potassium Permanganate + Sulfuric Acid bleach and using a photopaper developper, as the emultion if soften by the bleach, we do hardening bath before to the bleach and one hardening fix bath after second developpement. The hardening concentrate is the Tetenal one (Aluminium Sulfite + Acetic Acid but that need confirmation). You can watch the result here on a Kodak Tri-X 200. (i found the result to be a bit too much contrasted...)

But, according to the Super8Wiki notch ruler we are not sure that the
Canon 814 XL-S can read ASA 400, even if it say so on different website (that would mean not a notch is pushed by the cartridge, 6 notches without the filter notch, and we tried cuting into an old K40 to make it ac as a ASA 400T but it doesn't seem to make a difference for the exposure sensor, that same camera read and exposed correctly the Kodak Tri-X 200 that you can watch on vimeo...). So : is it possible to turn a cartridge to ASA 400T (or around like a 500T), and would a Canon 814XL-S be able to read it, it can read Vision3 500T, so i guess yes, but how ?

That's it for the moment, if you have solutions and/or questions, i'm up for it !

Bye,

Jeremy


 

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Posted (edited)

While I can't answer your questions, it's GREAT to see someone re-cutting Foma material into plain S8. Do you plan selling your stuff abroad (in the EU at least)? I'd more than keen to purchase it, as long as it's much cheaper than Kodak's stuff.

Edited by Ruotsalainen Werner

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Hello Werner !

We are not planing on selling it, it's for the lab member use, BUT : sharing is caring and once it is all set correctly we can share result, tips, "blueprint" (it's mostly DIY/hack in my kitchen). Some of the guys are electrotechnic engineer in CERN, so doing some arduino to control the motor is not a problem. I'm still perfecting the processing side and will do a pdf once it's reliable (may take some times) !


 

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13 hours ago, Jeremy Saint-Peyre said:

Hello folks,

According to Super8Wiki, Lomo Reloadable Cartridge acts as 64T/40D -> http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Super_8_Cartridge_Notch_Ruler (down of the page).

We would like to turn them into ASA 100, but we don't know wich notch ruler we should trust :
- The one from Super8Wiki : super8wiki.com/images/6/6f/Cartridgenotchruler.pdf
- Or that one who says the Super8Wiki notch ruler is not that good : http://www.peaceman.de/schmalfilm/super8/S8_Notch_Tools_v1.0.pdf
Bye,

Jeremy


 

There is plenty of play in the exposure. That must be because real consumer life is crude  on this kind of technique 🙂

The notchrulers aren't all that different. Best to go with the Peaceman ruler as that is the newest and drawn up by an expert.

 

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Kaccema takes 15 meters of regular acetate film. The important thing is to use a core. Just like the original Svema loads do.   Forgetting or leaving that out gives a risk of the film locking on the hub and blocking the film from unwinding further. Like others seem to have experienced and who blame it on the Kaccema

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2 hours ago, Jeremy Saint-Peyre said:

Something like those. They are intended for Kodak cartridges used as reloadable.

Possibly the Kaccema has the same dimension. You could also attempt to find a tube of the same diameters. Might even be carton. The main point is to give an easy start for spooling up and to keep the film from stringing itself on the hub 🙂

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