Decent, Cheap 16mm cameras

Nate Downes · July 16, 2006

I'll forget that then.

Good idea.

Tomas Stacewicz · August 6, 2006

From other side, if you set spool with strained of disks on K-3, the film will wind bad and you can lost all shooted film.

Dear Olex,

Could you explain this further or more clearly? I have experienced winding problems with my K-3. When I changed the original plastic spool with a metal from Kodak, it winded up the film more efficiently. But I have experienced the problem once again with the metal spool. I don't exacly know why. I pulled the limiter a few millimeters from the sprocket wheel and it worked again.

Could you explain what I shold notice and think about to prevent future winding problems with my K-3?

Edited August 6, 2006 by Tomas Stacewicz

August 6, 2006

Canon Scoopic M or MS.

yeah just get a scoopic, good and cheap.

Tomas Stacewicz · August 10, 2006

Please help me with this one Olex!

See post #27

Olex Kalynychenko · August 10, 2006

Dear Olex,

Could you explain this further or more clearly? I have experienced winding problems with my K-3. When I changed the original plastic spool with a metal from Kodak, it winded up the film more efficiently. But I have experienced the problem once again with the metal spool. I don't exacly know why. I pulled the limiter a few millimeters from the sprocket wheel and it worked again.

Could you explain what I shold notice and think about to prevent future winding problems with my K-3?

Hi Tomas

You can send me personal letter on my direct address : olex@a-teleport.com

I worry, to understand of you correctly.

What system of film loading of K-3 you use ? auto film loading or manual film loading ?

If you use auto film loading on film channel of camera, you need use original plastic spool on takeup reel only.

The original Kransogorsk spool have cogs inside spool and spool to hook film and wind.

If you will use other spool, you need set end of film on slit of spool manually.

The sprocket wheel have four film rollers and this roller to press and to direct of a film.

The size of gap between sprocket wheel and rollers the important.

If this gap will too much, the cogs of wheel not will take films, and size of loops will lost and film will jam.

If the gap will too small, the film will jam too and film can have scratch.

The gap need adjust, I recommend begin from size of thickness of two films.

You take two films, set between wheel and rollers and adjust of position of rollers.

You will need to check a position of sliding bar over of third roller. This is sliding bar to direct of film from film gate to sprocket wheel. This bar must have correct position too.

You need check a position of plastic post of clamping plate of film channel too. This is post must have gap for film too.

If you need, i can send more pictures.

Kransogorsk the good camera, but , need check and adjust too.

But, if you adjust all good, the camera will work good and will need test only.

Tomas Stacewicz · August 10, 2006

What system of film loading of K-3 you use ? auto film loading or manual film loading ?
If you use auto film loading on film channel of camera, you need use original plastic spool on takeup reel only.

The original Kransogorsk spool have cogs inside spool and spool to hook film and wind.

If you will use other spool, you need set end of film on slit of spool manually.

I use the autoload method. I have taken the cogs from the plastic spools and put them on the metal spools from Kodak. But that doesn't matter as I have to wind up the film manually on the spool for it to work properly.

The sprocket wheel have four film rollers and this roller to press and to direct of a film.
The size of gap between sprocket wheel and rollers the important.

If this gap will too much, the cogs of wheel not will take films, and size of loops will lost and film will jam.

If the gap will too small, the film will jam too and film can have scratch.

The gap need adjust, I recommend begin from size of thickness of two films.

You take two films, set between wheel and rollers and adjust of position of rollers.

Thank's for this valuable information. I will check it and adjust next time I have film.

You will need to check a position of sliding bar over of third roller. This is sliding bar to direct of film from film gate to sprocket wheel. This bar must have correct position too.

Do you mean the bar that the manual calls "the limiter"? If so, I have adjusted it already so that it doesn't press to the third roller to much as it affected the winding negatively.

What is the correct position btw?

You need check a position of plastic post of clamping plate of film channel too. This is post must have gap for film too.

I don't follow. What is the "plastic post fo clamping plate"?

If you need, i can send more pictures.

Yes, please do. You can send it to my email tomas.dahlheim@comhem.se (we been in contact with each other before) or you can put the picuters here for general interest.

Edited August 10, 2006 by Tomas Stacewicz

Matthew Buick · August 10, 2006

Actually, I can afford $1500 USD, absolute tops.

Olex Kalynychenko · August 13, 2006

Actually, I can afford $1500 USD, absolute tops.

This is volume of money can be quite enough to buy:

Kinor-16 SX-2m - $500..650

Service of camera $500..600

modification of motor $250

And you can have 16 mm professional cine camera with reflex viewfinder,

high precision mechanism with registration pin, zoom lens 10-100 mm ( 7.5-75 mm ),

30 m, 120 m film magazines, electrical motor with system of stabilization.

This can be good choose for this volume of money.

Matthew Buick · August 13, 2006

I'm reducing that to endorse my other hobbies, what about the K3 ?

Olex Kalynychenko · August 13, 2006

I'm reducing that to endorse my other hobbies, what about the K3 ?

The good , reliable, 16 mm cine camera, but, this is semi-professional cine camera.

Semi- because, this is 16 mm cine camera and 16 mm - format of professional filming.

This camera design for amateur cameraman of experience, small amateur cine studious, scientific lab,

and other.

Mechanical clock spring motor,will work 25..28 sec at 24 fps with one full load spring, reflex system,

100 ft daylight spools, one pin transport mechanism, can have M42 or bayonet ( many letters show about difference and additional lenses ), 17-69 mm zoom lens, have TTL meter ( not high precision, big inertia, have effect blindness) and other technical possibilities.

You can buy on e-buy with price $150..180 + shipping.

You can make a some modification.

This is very good camera for berginner, cine schools and other filmmakers.

But, can be use for professional shooting too. A some filmmakers use K-3 for shoot of music video and have very good result and high quality footages.

The not good side, after a few loading of spring, the your hand can have tiredness.

Matthew Buick · August 13, 2006

The K3 can have modifications though can't it ?

Richardson Leao · August 14, 2006

I agree with him. Kinor 16 are the way to go. The camera is phenomenal.

I don´t agree with the advice "avoid anything russioan than the Krasnogorsk 3". There is probably one of the best choices out of Russia - The Kinor 16 cx m2. You can get both 100ft and 400ft-mags for it. It´s easy to load. And it is PIN REGISTERED -that means: the pictures are rock-steady on ARRi-SR-Level! I saw offers for about 400 and 500 Euros and a completely new one goes for max. 1500 Euros on EBay. It has a true reflex finder (with a mirror shutter disk -also like Arri) and it was in use for News gathering for the USSR-Television -what means it is a true professional camera, not a amateur toy like the K3. It has it´s special lens mount -but the lenses are easy to find on EBay and they are cheap -and very good. There´s a 10-100mm Zoom lens, a 12-120mm Zoom Lens, 6mm, 10mm, 25mm, 50mm, 100mm, 150mm, 200mm and even 300mm Primes. All of them rather cheap and very good. Especially the 10-100mm Zoom.