My Kinor 35H came today!!!

[James Steven Beverly]

My beautiful Kinor 35H arrived safely TODAY!!! I was a little worried because it came from the Ukraine and I had no way of knowing for sure if it would get here. I did as much research on the seller as possible and decided he was trustworthy, and fortunately he very much was. I have been trying to get a sound sync camera for a while now and finally was able to buy a Kinor 35H complete package with 12 lenses and 4 mags (2 1000ft, 2 500ft.) at the right price and can't wait to start shooting with it! I am completely JAZZED about this! All I can say is WOO HOO!!! :D :D :D

Edited December 5, 2006 by James Steven Beverly

[Hal Smith]

My beautiful Kinor 35H arrived safely TODAY!!!............All I can say is WOO HOO!!!

Mazeltov, may the Force be with you this Christmas season!

(hey, you mix metaphors your way, I'll mix'em my way).

[James Steven Beverly]

"L'Chaim! Luke, I am your father and Feliz Navidad!...I sorry, I'm a bit giddy THIS IS SO GREAT :D

Edited December 5, 2006 by James Steven Beverly

[Hal Smith]

"L'Chaim! Luke, I am your father and Feliz Navidad!...I sorry, I'm a bit giddy THIS IS SO GREAT :D

Curse You, Capt. Video!

 

Seriously,

 

Let me know if you run into any electronics questions with the Kinor. I know nothing from Kinors but a heck of a lot about control circuits, power supplies, etc., etc.

[James Steven Beverly]

Thanks Man, I case haven't said it before, Hal, you rock, dude! B)

[Ian Dudley]

Hey, sorry to miss this post and a belated CONGRATS.

 

Sounds like a great package. You're fortunate to get it as a package rather than piecemeal as I did. I had already owned a Konvas 2m and lenses so it made sense for me to pick up a 35h body and a few mags and accessories when I got a great deal. The only problem is I couldn't find any 500' mags as they are very rare outside of a complete Kinor package. I've only just recently found the original side rod mounted onboard mattebox that's so good for handheld work. For now that's handheld with the 1000's which luckily wrap nicely around the shoulder.

 

Anyway congrats again on the kit, I hope your viewfinder issues are quickly resolved. Any progress?

 

Cheers,

 

Ian

[Igor Trajkovski]

Great!

I am happy for you.

Congrats!

 

Now be a "komrade" and take a few snapshots of

your new kamera and accessory.

:)

 

Regars

 

Igor

[Olex Kalynychenko]

Hey, sorry to miss this post and a belated CONGRATS.

 

Sounds like a great package. You're fortunate to get it as a package rather than piecemeal as I did. I had already owned a Konvas 2m and lenses so it made sense for me to pick up a 35h body

Ian

 

You must be very careful to use lenses from Konvas-2M with Kinor-35 H camera.

You can damage of mirror disk of Kinor-35.

Yes, Kinor-35 and Konvas-2M have similar lens mount, but, have difference request of rear distance between film gate and rear glass of lens.

Konvas-2M can use lenses with distance of 13.5 mm from rear glass of lens and film gate,

Kinor-35 H need minimum 18.5 mm.

This is a few millimeters a difference broken many mirror disks.

The better, if you will use lenses from Kinor-35 H camera with Konvas.

The base plate with follow focus mechanism and universal lens hood can be use with Konvas.

[Ian Dudley]

You must be very careful to use lenses from Konvas-2M with Kinor-35 H camera.

You can damage of mirror disk of Kinor-35.

Yes, Kinor-35 and Konvas-2M have similar lens mount, but, have difference request of rear distance between film gate and rear glass of lens.

Konvas-2M can use lenses with distance of 13.5 mm from rear glass of lens and film gate,

Kinor-35 H need minimum 18.5 mm.

This is a few millimeters a difference broken many mirror disks.

The better, if you will use lenses from Kinor-35 H camera with Konvas.

The base plate with follow focus mechanism and universal lens hood can be use with Konvas.

Greetings,

 

Thanks for the advice. I've been aware of the issues with Konvas 2m lenses and the Kinor and have been very careful not to use lenses which will hit the mirror and groundglass. Almost all of my Lomos lenses work fine with the Kinor, as they have the 50 pitch gearing for the Kinor. Only a 50/2.3 wouldn't fit, as the focus mechanics protruded too far into the Kinor body. I noticed this luckily before I did any damage.

 

Thanks for the good advice though.

 

Cheers,

 

Ian dudley

[James Steven Beverly]

Great!

I am happy for you.

Congrats!

 

Now be a "komrade" and take a few snapshots of

your new kamera and accessory.

:)

 

Regars

 

Igor

 

Das Vidanya, Komrade. (which can be roughly translated into English as "to the wisdom of your ancestors".) I will! Hey in the meantime can you post some pics of yours? I'd love to see it. B)

 

You must be very careful to use lenses from Konvas-2M with Kinor-35 H camera.

You can damage of mirror disk of Kinor-35.

Yes, Kinor-35 and Konvas-2M have similar lens mount, but, have difference request of rear distance between film gate and rear glass of lens.

Konvas-2M can use lenses with distance of 13.5 mm from rear glass of lens and film gate,

Kinor-35 H need minimum 18.5 mm.

This is a few millimeters a difference broken many mirror disks.

The better, if you will use lenses from Kinor-35 H camera with Konvas.

The base plate with follow focus mechanism and universal lens hood can be use with Konvas.

 

Are there any of the Konvas 2m square front anamorphics that have rear elements short enough to clear the Kinor 35H mirror?

Edited December 16, 2006 by James Steven Beverly

[Ian Dudley]

Das Vidanya, Komrade. (which can be roughly translated into English as "to the wisdom of your ancestors".) I will! Hey in the meantime can you post some pics of yours? I'd love to see it. B)

Are there any of the Konvas 2m square front anamorphics that have rear elements short enough to clear the Kinor 35H mirror?

Hi,

 

I think none of the square front primes will fit the Kinor. I have tried them all (35,50,80) and they wouldn't fit. The rear grouping is just too long.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Ian

[Paul Bruening]

Oh Captain, my Captain,

 

Congrats. Have you rolled with it yet? Tell all! What's the big news? Is the image sharp? Is the registration good? C'mon, man! We need this news like junkies need a fix.

[Olex Kalynychenko]

Hi,

 

I think none of the square front primes will fit the Kinor. I have tried them all (35,50,80) and they wouldn't fit. The rear grouping is just too long.

Cheers,

 

Ian

 

I have similar opinion.

The anamorphic lenses with square front glass can have problem with Kinor-35H camera.

 

The original set of anamoprhic lenses of Kinor-35 H included :

35 BAS-27-1 35 mm F2.0

35 BAS 22-2 50 mm F2.0

35 BAS 23-2 75 mm F2.0

 

The specail orders include too:

35 BAS-25-1 100 mm F 2.8

35 BAS-2-2 150 mm F3.5 with special back part.

and other.

 

For information.

The optical technicians from St-Petersburg created a technology a modification of

anamoprhic lenses with square front glass on Arri PL lens mount.

[James Steven Beverly]

Oh Captain, my Captain,

 

Congrats. Have you rolled with it yet? Tell all! What's the big news? Is the image sharp? Is the registration good? C'mon, man! We need this news like junkies need a fix.

 

Not yet, Amigo, I'm having trouble with the viewfinder, can't get an image through it plus I still need to pick up some power for it, eather batteries or a power source. I've just sent off the cash for a partial set of anamorphics (50 and 75mm), a large Follow focus, a matte box and an extra backup set of electronics. I also bought a couple of O'Connor 100s and am talking to Steve Morton about a video tap and adaptor to make the much easier to find and more availible Konvas De-anamorphic viewfinder work with this camera. I also still need sticks capible of holding up this beast. I found a matched set of tall and short sticks that should work with the O'Connors and I'll see what I can get them for. I messed with the viewfinder today, trying to adjust it but still no luck. I may have to ship it off which is gonna piss me off to no end but I already told the guy I bought it from if I have to do that HE needs to pay for it because our deal was one camera in GOOD WORKING ORDER and I expect to have what I paid for. We'll see how it goes. B)

[Paul Bruening]

El Capitan,

 

Sorry to hear about your bad news. I've learned that buying a used camera is rather like buying a used car. In your budgeting you should add the cost of a couple of repairs to the purchase price just to make sure you have enough dough set aside to have a running camera. Still, it seems to be quite abit cheaper than buying a camera right off the showroom floor. I hope your fix-its go smoothly.

[Mark Henderson]

Are you aware of a company in Australia that works on Kinors? I think it is the Amanda Group. If not, I'll get their info for you. Good luck, Mark

[Kevin Masuda]

Yeah The Aranda Group in Australia does wonderful work. Talk to Bruce at Aranda, he's a great help.

 

Kev

[Mark Henderson]

My beautiful Kinor 35H arrived safely TODAY!!! I was a little worried because it came from the Ukraine and I had no way of knowing for sure if it would get here. I did as much research on the seller as possible and decided he was trustworthy, and fortunately he very much was. I have been trying to get a sound sync camera for a while now and finally was able to buy a Kinor 35H complete package with 12 lenses and 4 mags (2 1000ft, 2 500ft.) at the right price and can't wait to start shooting with it! I am completely JAZZED about this! All I can say is WOO HOO!!! :D :D :D

 

 

James:

 

So what is the final verdict on the Kinor? Are you happy with it? We would love to know.

 

Thanks, Mark

[James Steven Beverly]

James:

 

So what is the final verdict on the Kinor? Are you happy with it? We would love to know.

 

Thanks, Mark

 

I'll let you know when I get a chance to use it. This one had a minor problem, the siver on the prizm turned black, AT LEAST I THINK that what's happened as this is a common ailment on these cameras. I haven't had the cash to send it in the have serviced and checked. All in all though I'm STILL very pleased with the camera. I have 14 lenses, of which 3 are fast and 2 are amamorphic all comperable in quality to Ziess or Cooke for less than what I would have paided for 1 anamorphic lens in a western brand. The biggest problem with these cameras is that parts are not something you go down to the local camera shop and buy. But still given a choice between this camera with everything that came with it and an Arri BL 1 or 2 with 3 lenses for the same price, I'd still stick with the commiecam. Das Vidanya, comrade B)

[Alessandro Machi]

I'll let you know when I get a chance to use it. This one had a minor problem, the siver on the prizm turned black, AT LEAST I THINK that what's happened as this is a common ailment on these cameras. I haven't had the cash to send it in the have serviced and checked. All in all though I'm STILL very pleased with the camera. I have 14 lenses, of which 3 are fast and 2 are amamorphic all comperable in quality to Ziess or Cooke for less than what I would have paided for 1 anamorphic lens in a western brand. The biggest problem with these cameras is that parts are not something you go down to the local camera shop and buy. But still given a choice between this camera with everything that came with it and an Arri BL 1 or 2 with 3 lenses for the same price, I'd still stick with the commiecam. Das Vidanya, comrade B)

 

 

I'm not quite understanding what happened. Was the camera prepped and sold to you, or was it just sold to you "as is"?

[Hal Smith]

.............I still need to pick up some power for it, eather batteries or a power source. was one camera in GOOD WORKING ORDER and I expect to have what I paid for. We'll see how it goes. B)

My offer still stands.............let me know voltage requirements and I'll scare you up a bargain with my surplus connections.

[Adam Frisch FSF]

I have quite a lot of experience with the Kinor's (although it was a couple of years ago now). Some pointers:

 

Ther movements main axle isn't a ball bearing, therefore oiling this part is crucial. Also, if any little object gets in there and starts grinding a grove, the camera will jam. We had to pull our Kinor apart a million times before we figured that one out.

 

There's a film-out saftey switch at the back of the cam. It's a little arm supposed to be pressed in by the film coming from the magazine to prevent it from running "dry" or out. This frequently fails. If the camera doesn't run, it's probably because this device isn't pressed in enough. Easy enough to fix - just bend the lever slightly outward so it engages earlier.

 

The electronics are poop. Let's be blunt here. There is an upgrade you can get that's well worth it. Also, inside the camera on the motor/electronics side there's a belt that runs the whole movement and mirror. Get an extra belt if you can, because if it pops (which it does sometimes) - the camera is unusable.

 

Don't worry if the image wobbles in the viewfinder - it's designed to do this. The movement and the lens mount is one rubberized independent part (very clever - means you can't whack the lens out of alignment), but the viewfinder isn't part of all this. Therefore the image can wobble distressingly with long, heavy lenses as you're viewing it.

[James Steven Beverly]

I'm not quite understanding what happened. Was the camera prepped and sold to you, or was it just sold to you "as is"?

No the guy I bought it from said it was in good working order and had, had a technican check it. When it got here, I set it up and couldn't see anything through the viewfinder. I emailed him, he swore up and down it was working fine when he sent it and that It just needed to be adjusted, I adjusted it every which way from Sunday and still nothing I email him back, he sticks to his story, He's in Russia, I'm screwed. SOOO i do some research and figure that's the problem and I have to raise the cash to get it fixed. I COULD demand my money back but even with the problem, I haven't seen one of these with this many accesorries for that price in a long while so I have to live with it. It's still a very good deal DISPITE the problems.

 

My offer still stands.............let me know voltage requirements and I'll scare you up a bargain with my surplus connections.

 

AH Dude, thanks man. It's 18 volts, I'm not sure what the amp draw is but I'll find out. Hal, you da man! B)

 

I have quite a lot of experience with the Kinor's (although it was a couple of years ago now). Some pointers:

 

Ther movements main axle isn't a ball bearing, therefore oiling this part is crucial. Also, if any little object gets in there and starts grinding a grove, the camera will jam. We had to pull our Kinor apart a million times before we figured that one out.

 

There's a film-out saftey switch at the back of the cam. It's a little arm supposed to be pressed in by the film coming from the magazine to prevent it from running "dry" or out. This frequently fails. If the camera doesn't run, it's probably because this device isn't pressed in enough. Easy enough to fix - just bend the lever slightly outward so it engages earlier.

 

The electronics are poop. Let's be blunt here. There is an upgrade you can get that's well worth it. Also, inside the camera on the motor/electronics side there's a belt that runs the whole movement and mirror. Get an extra belt if you can, because if it pops (which it does sometimes) - the camera is unusable.

 

Don't worry if the image wobbles in the viewfinder - it's designed to do this. The movement and the lens mount is one rubberized independent part (very clever - means you can't whack the lens out of alignment), but the viewfinder isn't part of all this. Therefore the image can wobble distressingly with long, heavy lenses as you're viewing it.

 

COOL, Thanks for the advice Adam. I knew about the shaft and that the electronics were less than desirable (I bought an extra set just in case.) but I DIDN'T know about the run-out arm. Good to know. I knew there was an belt drive but How hard is it to change the belt out if you have to? Thanks again.

[Hal Smith]

[quote name='Hal Smith' post='157889' date='Mar 1 2007, 08:35 AM']My offer still stands.............let me know voltage requirements and I'll scare you up a bargain with my surplus connections.[/quote]
I wonder if all the fuss about bad Kinor electronics is because they're not cooled properly? A lot of borderline bad electronics got that way because the original electronics designer(s) aren't the people who packaged the electronics. I've "improved" quite a few designs over the years by adding cooling fans, heatsinks, vents, ducts, ran the gear without its lid on, etc., etc. When that's the case, often a small, quiet fan is a HUGE improvement. A quick test is: If anything in the electronics is hot to the touch, it's running too hot. Past about 105F just about anything electronic starts to climb up on the "Mean Time Before Failure" curve. Get to around 140F and things that would last for years and years if cool will start to quit in months.

Here's a graph of MTBF versus Temperature for computer CPU's, it's pretty representative of electronics in general.

[attachment=1813:attachment]

[Adam Frisch FSF]

I knew there was an belt drive but How hard is it to change the belt out if you have to? Thanks again.

 

If I recall correctly, the belt runs the mirror as well. So if it breaks, you need to re-time or sync the two so the mirror is open when the movemnet stands still (and not the other way around). Not rocket science, but can be a little fiddly. Maybe there's a mark on the belts to tell you exactly where it should go on the cogs (i.e. ensuring sync), but I can't recall this. I could also be completely wrong about the belt running the mirror - it was years ago since I used one of these cameras, but that's how I remember it.